Alt-Sachsenhausen: Frankfurt's Apple Wine District

Alt-Sachsenhausen, located south of the Main River, is Frankfurt's most convivial and historic district, a warren of cobblestone lanes lined with traditional apple wine taverns (Apfelweinwirtschaften), half-timbered houses, and lively fountains. Often referred to as the 'Ebbelwoi district,' it offers visitors a unique glimpse into Frankfurt's past and present, where the spirit of old Germany mingles with a vibrant nightlife. First mentioned in the 12th century, Sachsenhausen served as Frankfurt's bridgehead and was historically home to fishermen, weavers, and other working-class citizens. Unlike Frankfurt's Altstadt (old town), which was largely destroyed during World War II, Alt-Sachsenhausen retains much of its pre-war charm, making it a living museum of Frankfurt's architectural and cultural heritage. The district is enclosed since 1390 by a city wall with nine towers. Wandering through Alt-Sachsenhausen is like stepping back in time. The narrow, winding streets, such as Große Rittergasse, Kleine Rittergasse, Klappergasse and Paradiesgasse, are paved with cobblestones and lined with meticulously restored half-timbered houses adorned with flower boxes. Gas lamps cast a warm glow in the evenings, creating a romantic and inviting atmosphere. Small squares with bubbling fountains offer respite from the bustling crowds. The heart of Alt-Sachsenhausen is its apple wine culture. 'Ebbelwoi,' as the locals call it, is a tart, slightly sour apple wine that is a Frankfurt specialty. It is traditionally served in a 'Geripptes' glass (a glass with a diamond-patterned surface) from a 'Bembel' (a grey stoneware jug). Numerous taverns, some dating back centuries, offer Ebbelwoi alongside hearty Frankfurt cuisine. Among the culinary delights to be savored in Alt-Sachsenhausen are 'Handkäs mit Musik' (a pungent cheese marinated with onions, vinegar, and oil), 'Grüne Soße' (a green sauce made with seven herbs), and 'Rippchen mit Kraut' (pork ribs with sauerkraut). Many taverns also offer variations on these classics, as well as seasonal specialties. Klappergasse is perhaps the most famous street in Alt-Sachsenhausen, known for its lively atmosphere and the Frau Rauscher fountain. This whimsical fountain depicts a local character known for her love of apple wine, and it playfully squirts water at unsuspecting passersby. The fountain is a popular meeting point and a symbol of the district's jovial spirit. The fountain festival is happily celebrated in Sachsenhausen since at least 1490. While Alt-Sachsenhausen is known for its nightlife, it also offers cultural attractions. The Museumsufer, located on the northern edge of the district along the Main River, is home to a cluster of world-class museums, including the Städel Museum (art from the early 14th century to the present), the Liebieghaus Skulpturensammlung (sculptures from ancient Egypt to Neoclassicism), and the German Film Museum. Sachsenhausen is also home to the Frankfurt youth hostel. For those seeking a quieter experience, Alt-Sachsenhausen also has hidden courtyards and secluded taverns away from the main thoroughfares. These offer a more intimate setting to enjoy apple wine and traditional food. Alt-Sachsenhausen is easily accessible by public transportation. Several tram and bus lines serve the district, and it is also within walking distance of the Frankfurt city center. The district is particularly lively during the summer months and during the Frankfurt Christmas Market, when it is filled with visitors from around the world. Beyond the apple wine taverns and museums, Alt-Sachsenhausen offers a glimpse into Frankfurt's history and culture. The Kuhhirtenturm, a medieval tower, serves as a reminder of the city's fortifications. The cobblestone streets and half-timbered houses evoke a sense of old-world charm, while the lively atmosphere reflects the city's vibrant spirit. Whether you are a history buff, a foodie, or simply looking for a fun night out, Alt-Sachsenhausen has something to offer. It is a place where tradition and modernity blend seamlessly, creating a unique and unforgettable experience. A visit to Alt-Sachsenhausen is an essential part of any trip to Frankfurt, offering a taste of the city's history, culture, and culinary delights. Exploring Alt-Sachsenhausen is best done on foot, allowing you to fully appreciate the district's charm and discover its hidden gems. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes, as the cobblestone streets can be uneven. Take your time to wander through the laneways, soak up the atmosphere, and sample the local specialties. And don't be surprised if you get a little wet from the Frau Rauscher fountain – it's all part of the fun! Alt-Sachsenhausen is more than just a tourist destination; it is a living, breathing part of Frankfurt's identity. It is a place where locals and visitors come together to celebrate the city's history, culture, and culinary traditions. Whether you are enjoying a glass of apple wine in a traditional tavern, exploring the Museumsufer, or simply strolling through the cobblestone streets, Alt-Sachsenhausen is sure to leave a lasting impression. Visiting Alt-Sachsenhausen during different times of the year offers unique experiences. In the summer, the district comes alive with outdoor seating and street performers. In the winter, the Christmas Market brings a festive atmosphere. No matter when you visit, be sure to check out local events and festivals, as they often take place in this vibrant neighborhood. Alt-Sachsenhausen is a district that engages all the senses. The sights of the half-timbered houses and bubbling fountains, the sounds of laughter and music, the smells of apple wine and traditional food, the tastes of Frankfurt specialties, and the feel of the cobblestone streets under your feet all combine to create a truly immersive experience. It's a place where you can escape the hustle and bustle of modern life and step back into a simpler, more charming time. In conclusion, Alt-Sachsenhausen is a must-see destination for anyone visiting Frankfurt. Its unique blend of history, culture, and culinary delights makes it a truly unforgettable experience. Whether you are a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler, Alt-Sachsenhausen is sure to capture your heart and leave you with lasting memories of Frankfurt.