Fortnum & Mason

From Royal Candles to Culinary Legend

Fortnum & Mason's story begins in the early 18th century with an entrepreneurial footman named William Fortnum, who served in the household of Queen Anne. The queen's insistence on fresh candles every evening left substantial quantities of half-used wax, which Fortnum cleverly resold for profit. Recognizing the potential of this enterprise, he partnered with Hugh Mason, a grocer who operated a small shop in St James's Market, and together they established Fortnum & Mason in 1707. This humble beginning—trading in discarded royal candles—laid the foundation for what would become one of London's most prestigious institutions. By the mid-18th century, the partnership had evolved dramatically. When William Fortnum's grandson Charles entered the service of Queen Charlotte in 1761, the store's connection to the royal court deepened, transforming it into a purveyor of luxury provisions. The business began specializing in ready-to-eat delicacies such as game served in aspic jelly, positioning itself as the ultimate supplier to London's gentry and aristocracy. The store's location on Piccadilly, a major thoroughfare for westbound travellers, proved invaluable. In 1738, Fortnum & Mason claims to have invented the Scotch egg—a portable, hearty snack of hard-boiled egg wrapped in seasoned meat and breadcrumbs—designed specifically for travellers requiring convenient sustenance on their journeys.

Innovation and Enterprise Through the Centuries

Fortnum & Mason's entrepreneurial spirit extended far beyond food. Before the establishment of the General Post Office in 1839, the store operated its own mail service, installing letterboxes emptied six times daily and offering discounts to soldiers and sailors. During the Napoleonic Wars, the company became a vital supplier to British forces, sending provisions including beef tea to Florence Nightingale and her nurses in Crimea by royal request of Queen Victoria. Ships bound for the Crimea carried so many Fortnum & Mason provisions that officers reportedly requested the removal of labels to prevent theft. The 19th century brought further innovations. In 1886, when a young American entrepreneur named Henry Heinz arrived with five cases of tinned baked beans, Fortnum & Mason became the first retailer in Britain to stock this revolutionary product, recognizing its potential as a future household staple. The store's commitment to pioneering exotic and luxury goods earned it a reputation as a 'unique emporium for goods sold precisely nowhere else,' bolstered by its historic ties to the British East India Company, which granted access to rare spices and teas from India.

The Building, the Clock, and Architectural Grandeur

The current flagship building at 181 Piccadilly was rebuilt between 1926 and 1927 in a Neo-Georgian style by architects Wimperis, Simpson and Guthrie, replacing an earlier structure. In 1840, William Fortnum's great-grandson Richard had invested the company's profits into a building at the same location, designed with elegant fanlights and decoration deliberately intended to invite women customers inside. The modern building incorporates adjoining properties at Duke Street and Jermyn Street, creating a substantial presence on this prestigious London thoroughfare. The most recognizable feature of Fortnum & Mason is its iconic four-ton clock, commissioned in 1964 by Canadian businessman Garfield Weston, who had acquired the store in 1951. Every hour on the hour, mechanical figures of William Fortnum and Hugh Mason, each standing 1.2 metres tall, emerge from the clock and bow to one another beneath chimes cast at the same foundry that created Big Ben's bells. Every fifteen minutes, 18th-century style music plays, creating a theatrical spectacle that has captivated Londoners and visitors for decades. The clock's designer, Berkeley Sutcliffe, incorporated the store's signature colour, eau-de-nil (a pale blue-green), which appears throughout the building's exterior, product packaging, and branding.

Royal Patronage and Modern Evolution

Royal connections have remained central to Fortnum & Mason's identity throughout its history. The store currently holds two royal warrants—one from the reigning monarch and one from the Prince of Wales. King Charles III, during his time as Prince of Wales, frequently visited to promote Welsh farm brands and sustainable agricultural practices, leading to the launch of his Highgrove estate product range in 1996, a collaboration that continues today. The store has created special tea blends for significant royal occasions, including the Wedding Breakfast Blend issued for the marriage of Kate Middleton and Prince William in 2011. In 2012, Queen Elizabeth II opened the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, accompanied by the Duchesses of Cornwall and Cambridge, cementing the store's status as a symbol of British luxury and royal favour. In recent decades, Fortnum & Mason has balanced tradition with innovation. A controversial atrium was added between 2005 and 2007 to demonstrate the store's breadth beyond its famous chocolate counter. In 1951, Garfield Weston created the Soda Fountain, an American-style restaurant featuring knickerbocker glories that became iconic in its own right. The 2023 transformation of the third floor introduced the Food & Drink Studio, a cookshop, bookshop, and copper distillery producing in-house Amalthea Gin, alongside a cosy bar for cocktails. Monthly events including masterclasses, demonstrations, and talks ensure the store remains a living, evolving destination rather than a static museum piece.

Sustainability and Modern Stewardship

Fortnum & Mason's commitment to sustainability reflects contemporary values while honouring its heritage. Since 2008, four beehives have occupied the Piccadilly rooftop, each standing six feet tall and tended by a dedicated bee master. The honey produced annually, harvested in September, carries flavours that hint at the bees' journeys through London's nearby parks and gardens, including Buckingham Palace, Clarence House, and Green Park. The store has long supported local producers and artisans, offering Britain's finest foods and maintaining relationships with suppliers that embody quality and ethical practices. The iconic Fortnum & Mason hamper—filled with carefully curated provisions—remains the ultimate symbol of luxury gifting, seen at summer events such as Ascot, Wimbledon, and Henley, and given as prestigious gifts during the Christmas season.