St Mary Woolnoth: Hawksmoor’s Baroque Gem in the City of London

Architectural Masterpiece by Nicholas Hawksmoor

St Mary Woolnoth is the only City of London church designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, a protégé of Sir Christopher Wren. Constructed from 1716 to 1727 in the English Baroque style, it features an imposing façade dominated by two flat-topped turrets supported by Corinthian columns, creating a distinctive and arresting presence amid the surrounding modern office buildings. Hawksmoor’s design allowed for an unobstructed frontage on Lombard Street after the demolition of adjacent shops and houses, emphasizing the church’s architectural statement. Inside, notable features include a bulging pulpit crafted by Thomas Darby and Gervaise Smith, and exquisite sunburst marquetry by Appleby, which add to the church’s artistic richness.

Layers of History and Survival

The site has been a place of Christian worship since at least 1191, possibly earlier, with origins linked to a Saxon noble named Wulfnoth Cild. The church was rebuilt multiple times: a medieval structure stood here before being rebuilt in 1442, then badly damaged in the Great Fire of London in 1666. Sir Christopher Wren repaired it, but the building was ultimately deemed unsafe and replaced by Hawksmoor’s design. Remarkably, St Mary Woolnoth survived the Blitz during World War II without damage. Its crypt was sold to the City & South London Railway and repurposed as the ticket hall for Bank Underground Station, a pioneering engineering feat that preserved the church above while integrating underground transit beneath.

Historical Significance and Abolitionist Legacy

St Mary Woolnoth played a pivotal role in the abolitionist movement. John Newton, former slave ship captain turned Christian minister and author of the hymn “Amazing Grace,” served as rector here from 1780 until his death in 1807. His memorial tablet, which he wrote himself, is housed within the church. William Wilberforce, a leading abolitionist, was part of the congregation. The church’s location on Lombard Street also connects it to the history of the slave trade and abolition, with abolition meetings historically held nearby. The crypt originally contained Newton’s remains before they were moved during the Underground construction.

Unique Urban Integration and Cultural Role

The church’s crypt was controversially cleared and integrated into Bank Underground Station between 1897 and 1900, with the station entrance still visible on the south façade, adorned with sculptures symbolizing electricity and Hermes, the messenger god. Today, the crypt area houses a Starbucks, blending heritage with modern urban life. St Mary Woolnoth continues to serve as a place of worship, notably for London’s German-speaking Swiss community, and is the official church in London for the Government of British Columbia, Canada. Its location amidst the financial district juxtaposes centuries of sacred tradition with the bustling modern city.

Artistic and Literary Connections

The church’s architectural and cultural significance extends into literature and art. T. S. Eliot referenced St Mary Woolnoth in his 1922 poem "The Waste Land," highlighting its symbolic presence in London’s cultural memory. The church’s façade and interior details are celebrated examples of English Baroque craftsmanship. The clock mechanism inside is etched with an extract from Eliot’s poem, linking the building’s physical and literary heritage.

Preservation and Public Interest

Despite multiple proposals for demolition in the late 19th century to accommodate railway expansion, public outcry and legal compromises preserved the church. The City & South London Railway adapted its plans to avoid destroying the structure, reinforcing the church on steel girders while constructing the underground station beneath. This engineering achievement ensured the church’s survival and structural integrity. Today, St Mary Woolnoth stands as a protected historic landmark, a testament to London’s layered history and architectural resilience.