Restaurant Review: Geranium, Copenhagen, Denmark (Christmas Edition)

As snowflakes dance over Copenhagen, Geranium beckons with a promise of gastronomic warmth, a festive 'Christmas Universe' meticulously crafted by Chef Rasmus Kofoed. Prepare to be enchanted by a pescatarian symphony of seasonal flavors, where each dish is a testament to Nordic innovation and holiday cheer.

A Winter's Tale at Fælledparken

Ascending to the 8th floor of Fælledparken, Geranium reveals itself as an elegant refuge from the biting Scandinavian winter. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer panoramic views of Copenhagen, the cityscape softened by a blanket of snow. The restaurant's location emphasizes a vision of gastronomic clarity and diversity, exploring the tension between the urbane and the natural. The interior exudes a modern Nordic design, characterized by clean lines, blonde wood, soft textures and calming neutrals. Natural light floods the dining room, enhancing the sense of spaciousness and calm. A fireplace crackles merrily, casting a warm glow that combats the chill outside.

The open kitchen, a hallmark of Geranium, provides a front-row seat to the culinary choreography. Diners can observe the meticulous preparation of each dish, the chefs moving with precision and artistry. The atmosphere is one of hushed anticipation, a sense that something extraordinary is about to unfold. The setting is surprisingly serene, a balanced luxury without flashy chandeliers or theatrics. The visuals are clean lines, natural light and a sense of spaciousness that lets the food speak for itself. The view of the park feels very otherworldly combined with the fine dining aesthetic.

The Christmas 'Universe' Unveiled

The tasting menu, a 'Christmas Universe,' is a curated journey through Nordic flavors, emphasizing pescatarian delights and the best of winter's seasonal vegetables. Each course is a chapter in a culinary story, a progression from delicate snacks to more substantial dishes and decadent desserts. The presentation is as important as the taste, each plate a work of art, showcasing the chef's creativity and attention to detail. The philosophy is rooted in purity, elegance and the Danish landscape.

The 'Christmas Universe' is not just a meal; it's an immersive experience. The senses are heightened, the palate challenged, and the mind engaged. The locally inspired, seasonally changing menu takes place over a minimum of three hours, with around 20 courses split evenly among appetizers, savory dishes and sweets. The experience reflects the freedom that the chef felt in starting over. The inspiration comes from reaching out to life, the life that surrounds at the moment.

Herring's Holiday Reinvention

One standout dish features herring, a staple of Danish cuisine, reimagined for the festive season. Imagine crispy algae, delicate and brittle, providing a textural counterpoint to the rich, salted herring. The dish is adorned with edible flowers, their vibrant colors adding a touch of whimsy to the plate. The blend of traditional Danish flavors with a modern twist is a hallmark of Geranium's culinary approach.

The visual appeal is undeniable, the dish a miniature landscape of textures and colors. The taste is a harmonious balance of salty, savory, and subtly sweet. The crispy algae provides a satisfying crunch, while the herring melts in the mouth, releasing its briny essence. The edible flowers add a delicate floral note, enhancing the overall sensory experience. It is a modern riff on Danish smørrebrød.

The Kohlrabi Kaleidoscope

Another dish that exemplifies Geranium's innovative spirit is the kohlrabi creation. Thinly sliced kohlrabi, its pale green hue reminiscent of winter landscapes, is paired with smoked cream cheese and luxurious Ostercia caviar. The textures are key: the satisfying crunch of the kohlrabi against the smooth, creamy cheese and the delicate pop of the caviar. The combination of flavors is both surprising and delightful, a testament to the chef's skill in balancing contrasting elements.

The dish is more than just a culinary creation; it's a personal reflection on the beauty of simplicity. The kohlrabi, often overlooked, is elevated to a star ingredient, its subtle sweetness enhanced by the smoky cheese and the salty caviar. It's a reminder that even the most humble ingredients can be transformed into something extraordinary with creativity and care. Tresses of pickled kohlrabi lathered in smoked cream cheese and the saline creamy burst of Ostercia caviar, it is the only time a brassica ever conjured an out-of-body experience. It's the menu's apotheosis.

A Sweet Seabuckthorn Symphony

The dessert course offers a sweet conclusion to the 'Christmas Universe,' featuring seabuckthorn, a Nordic berry known for its tartness and vibrant color. Imagine white chocolate, smooth and creamy, paired with the nutty crunch of pumpkin seeds. The seabuckthorn provides a burst of acidity, cutting through the richness of the chocolate and adding a refreshing counterpoint. The balance of flavors and textures is exquisite, a symphony of sweet and tart, smooth and crunchy.

The presentation is, as always, impeccable. The dessert is arranged with artistic flair, a miniature landscape of flavors and colors. A dusting of powdered sugar evokes a light snowfall, adding a touch of winter magic to the plate. It's a sweet ending that leaves a lasting impression, a reminder of the culinary artistry and festive spirit that defines Geranium's 'Christmas Universe'. The leafy lattice shields a bowl of sea buckthorn, carrot, pumpkin seeds and white chocolate.