Telavi: Gateway to the Kakheti Harvest

As the September sun bathes the vineyards of Kakheti in a golden glow, Telavi awakens as the heart of Georgia’s most cherished tradition: Rtveli, the wine harvest.

This vibrant city, cradled by the majestic Caucasus Mountains and the fertile Alazani Valley, offers an immersive experience for foodies and wine enthusiasts alike. From exploring ancient fortresses to participating in the grape harvest and savoring the region's culinary delights, Telavi promises an unforgettable journey into the soul of Georgian culture.

A Royal Welcome at Batonis Tsikhe

At the heart of Telavi stands Batonis Tsikhe Fortress, a testament to the city's rich history and royal past. Meaning “the fortress of the lord,” this formidable stronghold served as the residence of the Kakhetian kings in the 17th and 18th centuries. Construction of the fortress unfolded in two phases, the first from 1667 to 1675 and the second in the latter half of the 18th century. The fortress was built by King Archil in 1667-1675.

The fortress walls, crafted from rough limestone, rise over five meters high, a powerful reminder of its defensive purpose. Watchtowers punctuate the linear structure, and two main gates, eastern and western, emphasize the site's military significance. During the reign of King Erekle, a fence protected the city and its population from invasions.

Within the fortress walls, visitors can explore several palace buildings, two churches, and the ruins of an ancient bathhouse. The oldest structure is the modest 17th-century monastery founded by King Archil, built in classic Georgian style. The second church, constructed in 1758 by King Erekle II, stands in remarkable condition, a testament to his vision and legacy. The palace of King Erekle II was built in the Persian style.

Today, Batonis Tsikhe houses an ethnographic museum and an art gallery, showcasing masterpieces by Georgian, Italian, Russian, and Dutch artists. The Telavi Historical Museum displays the traditions and culture of the royal household. Outside the fortress, a striking equestrian statue of Erekle II pays tribute to the king who devoted his life to Kakheti's defense and prosperity.

Market Delights: Telavi Bazaar's Bounty

A visit to Telavi is incomplete without immersing oneself in the vibrant atmosphere of the Telavi Bazaar. This bustling market, a cornerstone of culinary and cultural exchange since the 17th century, offers a sensory feast of sights, smells, and tastes.

Here, local farmers and vendors display a colorful array of fresh produce, from ripe apricots and peaches to juicy tomatoes and cucumbers. The air is filled with the aroma of herbs and spices, including cumin, which the Tushetians use in their khinkali. Dairy products take center stage, with a wide selection of Georgian cheeses such as Akhmeta, Dambalkhacho, Nadughi, and Matsoni.

The sweets section beckons with the traditional Georgian delicacy, churchkhela, nuts on a string covered in a hardened paste made from fruit syrup. Colorful fruit leathers, known as Tklapi, made from plums, pears, apples, and kiwi, offer a delightful alternative. Local wines and chacha, traditionally distilled, also have a prominent place at the market.

A hidden gem of the Telavi Bazaar is the jonjoli pickle, made from the flower buds of the jonjoli bush. This unique appetizer, with its slightly sour and caper-like flavor, is a must-try for adventurous palates. It is also enjoyed as an edible green, often seasoned with walnuts or hazelnuts.

Rtveli Revelations: Joining the Harvest

Rtveli, the Georgian wine harvest, is more than just a tradition; it's a celebration of life, community, and the bountiful gifts of nature. Taking place from late August to mid-October, with the peak in September in Kakheti, Rtveli is a time when families and friends come together to harvest the grapes, make wine, and celebrate with traditional feasts, music, and dance.

The process begins with the careful picking of the ripe grapes, followed by the pressing of the grapes, traditionally done by foot in a large trough called a satsnakheli. The communal feasting, known as Supra, is an integral part of Rtveli, featuring traditional Georgian dishes, toasts, and folk songs. Grape juice is used to make Churchkhela.

Travelers seeking an authentic experience can participate in Rtveli with local families or wineries. Many wineries offer organized tours and opportunities to help with the harvest, providing a unique glimpse into the world of Georgian winemaking. Traditional activities like churchkhela-making and folk music performances add to the festive atmosphere.

For those planning a trip to Kakheti specifically to experience Rtveli, a visit in September is highly recommended. This ensures the best chance to participate in the harvest and immerse oneself in the vibrant celebrations.

Vineyard Ventures: Wineries near Telavi

The area surrounding Telavi is dotted with exceptional wineries, each offering a unique perspective on Georgian winemaking. Tsinandali Estate, with its rich history and elegant setting, is a must-visit for its exquisite wines and beautiful gardens. Shumi Winery stands out for its museum and dedication to traditional techniques, while Khareba Winery is famous for its extensive wine tunnel carved into the hillside.

Smaller family wineries like Jakeli Wines and Rostomaant Marani offer a more intimate experience, showcasing the passion and dedication of Georgian winemakers. Many wineries in the region still practice the ancient tradition of Qvevri winemaking, using large clay vessels buried underground to ferment and age their wines. This unique method imparts a distinct character and earthy notes to the wines.

For a truly hidden gem, venture to Shalauri Wine Cellar, located on the outskirts of Telavi. This artisanal winery, founded by a group of friends, produces low-intervention Qvevri wines, including a wonderful Saperavi made from 30-year-old vines. The intimate vibe and dedication to natural winemaking make it a memorable experience.

Telavi Table: Culinary Hotspots

Telavi boasts a vibrant culinary scene, with numerous restaurants showcasing the best of local cuisine. Khachapuri, the iconic cheese-filled bread, is a must-try, as is Lobio, a traditional bean stew, Mtsvadi, grilled meat skewers, and Badrijani Nigvzit, eggplant slices stuffed with spiced walnut paste.

Shemoikhede Genatsvale is a popular spot for Kakhetian Mtsvadi, while Bravo Restaurant & Bar is known for its delicious Ajarian Khachapuri. For a hidden gem, seek out a restaurant with a view of the Alazani Valley, offering a breathtaking backdrop to your culinary experience. Doli offers a charming restaurant with local Georgian food.