Exploring the Wonders of Gran Paradiso with Family

Finding Peace in the Peaks

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of spiritual reflection and invigorating physical challenge in the heart of Gran Paradiso. It’s amazing how a single day can hold such diverse experiences, leaving you feeling both grounded and exhilarated. I woke up with a sense of anticipation, knowing that today's itinerary included a visit to the Eremo di San Grato and a hike to Passo dell'Invergneux.

Our day started with a hearty breakfast at L'Abro de la Leunna. This charming, rustic restaurant in Valsavarenche is known for its traditional Italian cuisine and cozy atmosphere. The kids were particularly fascinated by the drawings of elves and witches on the walls. I enjoyed a simple yet satisfying breakfast of bread, cheese and coffee, fuelling up for the day’s adventures. Maximilian, ever the practical one, made sure we all had enough to eat, knowing the hike ahead would require plenty of energy. After breakfast, we packed our backpacks, double-checking that we had enough water and snacks. I made a mental note to buy a portable charger as soon as possible; it's become quite clear that I can't rely on my phone's battery to last through a full day of hiking and photography.
The drive to Charvensod, where the trail to Eremo di San Grato begins, was scenic in itself. The winding roads offered glimpses of the Aosta Valley's stunning landscapes. Once we arrived, we parked the car and began our ascent. The trail was well-marked and meandered through a lush forest. The air was crisp and clean, filled with the scent of pine and damp earth. Sofia, ever the curious explorer, was thrilled to spot a variety of wildflowers along the way. She peppered us with questions about each one, her enthusiasm infectious. Maximilian, with his usual patience, answered each question in detail, sharing his knowledge of botany.
The hike to Eremo di San Grato was moderately challenging, with a steady incline that tested our stamina. As we climbed higher, the trees began to thin, revealing breathtaking views of the valley below. The hermitage itself is perched at an altitude of 1773 meters, offering a panoramic vista of Aosta and the surrounding mountains. The history of the hermitage dates back to the 13th century, with the present chapel being enlarged in 1754. It’s a place of devotion and pilgrimage, offering a sense of peace and silence.
Stepping inside the chapel, I was immediately struck by the simplicity and serenity of the space. The frescoes depicting the life of San Grato added to the spiritual atmosphere. I took a moment to light a candle and offer a silent prayer, reflecting on the beauty and tranquility of the surroundings. Sofia, though usually restless, seemed to sense the solemnity of the place and remained remarkably quiet. Maximilian, ever the historian, pointed out the architectural details of the chapel, explaining its significance in the local history.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest of places.

Leaving the Eremo di San Grato, we felt refreshed and rejuvenated. The spiritual pause had prepared us for the next leg of our journey: Passo dell'Invergneux. We drove towards Cogne, a charming village known for its traditional architecture and stunning mountain scenery. After a quick stop to pick up some trail maps and a few snacks at Vertical No Limits Aosta, a well-stocked sports shop in Saint-Christophe, we were ready to tackle the pass. The shop assistant was incredibly helpful, offering advice on the best routes and pointing out potential hazards. I was impressed by the quality of the equipment and the staff’s passion for the outdoors. It’s clear that this is a hub for adventure enthusiasts in the Aosta Valley.
For lunch, we stopped at Trattoria Sonveulla Bar Salumificio in Cogne. This cozy trattoria is known for its traditional cuisine and homemade *salumi*. We enjoyed a delicious meal of local specialties, including *soupetta di Cogne*, a hearty rice soup with fontina cheese. Sofia particularly enjoyed the homemade pasta, while Maximilian savored the local cheeses. The friendly staff made us feel right at home, and the warm atmosphere was a welcome respite from the chilly mountain air.
With our bellies full and our spirits high, we set off towards Passo dell'Invergneux. The drive to the trailhead was breathtaking, with panoramic views of the Gran Paradiso massif. The pass is located at an altitude of 2908 meters, offering stunning alpine scenery. The hike to the top was challenging, with steep inclines and rocky terrain. However, the views from the summit were more than worth the effort.
As we ascended, the landscape transformed from lush meadows to barren, rocky slopes. The air grew thinner, and we had to stop frequently to catch our breath. Sofia, though tired, was determined to reach the top. She held my hand tightly, her little legs pumping with determination. Maximilian, ever the supportive husband, carried our backpacks for the last stretch, encouraging us with words of praise. Reaching the summit of Passo dell'Invergneux was an incredible feeling of accomplishment. The panoramic views were simply stunning, with snow-capped peaks stretching as far as the eye could see. We took countless photos, trying to capture the grandeur of the landscape. Sofia was thrilled to spot a marmot scurrying across the rocks, her eyes wide with excitement.
We spent some time at the summit, soaking in the views and enjoying a well-deserved snack. The wind was strong and cold, but the sun was warm on our faces. I felt a sense of awe and gratitude, humbled by the sheer beauty and power of nature. It’s moments like these that make all the challenges of travel worthwhile. The descent from Passo dell'Invergneux was easier on the lungs but harder on the knees. We took our time, carefully navigating the rocky terrain. As we descended, the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the mountains. The landscape was bathed in a warm, ethereal light, creating a magical atmosphere.
For dinner, we decided to try Rifugio Le Fonti Minerali - Pizzeria - Ceresole Reale - Guide Alpine Valle Dell' Orco. Located in Ceresole Reale, this mountain refuge is known for its delicious pizzas and stunning views. The restaurant has a rustic charm, with wooden beams and cozy furnishings. The pizzas were excellent, made with fresh, local ingredients. Sofia devoured her Margherita, while Maximilian and I enjoyed a more adventurous pizza with local cheeses and cured meats. The friendly staff and the cozy atmosphere made it a perfect end to a long day of hiking.
As I sit here in our tent, writing this blog post, I can’t help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. The spiritual pause at Eremo di San Grato and the physical challenge of Passo dell'Invergneux have left me feeling both grounded and invigorated. It’s amazing how travel can nourish both the body and the soul. Tomorrow, we’ll be heading to Aosta to explore the Arco di Augusto and Pont d'Aël. I’m looking forward to discovering the historical sites and cultural attractions of this charming city. But for now, I’m content to drift off to sleep, dreaming of mountain peaks and spiritual heights. Tonight, I'll make sure to charge all devices, to avoid forgetting the portable charger again! I'm also starting to think about some souvenirs from the trip, maybe some local cheeses from Trattoria Sonveulla Bar Salumificio, or some hiking gear from Vertical No Limits Aosta. Good night from Gran Paradiso!


Discover the tranquility of Eremo di San Grato, a breathtaking hermitage in Aosta Valley, perfect for spiritual reflection and scenic views.


Experience breathtaking views and serene nature at Passo dell'Invergneux in the picturesque Aosta Valley, a perfect retreat for outdoor lovers.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at L'Abro de la Leunna in Valsavarenche – where local flavors meet warm hospitality amidst breathtaking mountain views.


Explore the Aosta Valley with top-notch gear from Vertical No Limits, your go-to sporting goods store in the heart of adventure.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at Trattoria Sonveulla Bar Salumificio in Cogne - where every meal is a celebration of local culinary traditions.


Discover authentic Italian cuisine amidst stunning alpine landscapes at Rifugio Le Fonti Minerali - your perfect escape in Ceresole Reale.