Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Finding Serenity in Nachi

Today was a day filled with breathtaking sights and profound reflections as I continued my solo pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo. The journey took me to the magnificent Nachi Waterfall and the serene Seiganto-ji Temple, each offering a unique perspective on the natural and spiritual beauty of this region. The weather was warm and humid, typical for August, but the occasional breeze provided a welcome respite as I explored these iconic landmarks. It's days like these that remind me why I embarked on this solo adventure, seeking solace and connection in the heart of Japan.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Jokiin [breakfast, i], the traditional Buddhist lodging where I'm staying in Koya. The simple yet nourishing meal of rice, miso soup, and pickled vegetables set me up perfectly for the day's adventures. After breakfast, I set off early, eager to experience the famed Nachi Waterfall and surrounding sites. The journey involved a combination of local trains and buses, each leg offering glimpses of the stunning Wakayama Prefecture. It's a good thing I double-checked my route, making sure I had my Suica card fully charged for the journey! I must remember to get a portable charger when I return home.

The Majestic Nachi Waterfall

Arriving at Nachi Waterfall was an experience that truly took my breath away. As Japan's tallest single-tiered waterfall, cascading down 133 meters, it is a sight to behold. The sheer power and beauty of the falls were mesmerizing, and I could feel the spray on my face as I stood in awe. The sound of the water crashing into the basin below was both deafening and soothing, creating a powerful connection to nature. I paid the small fee of ¥300 to access the viewing platform for a closer look. It was worth every yen to witness the raw power of nature up close.

The falls have been venerated as a sacred site since ancient times, long before organized religion took hold in Japan. It’s easy to understand why; the energy of the place is palpable. There’s something primal and deeply spiritual about standing before such a force of nature.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Nachi Waterfall, Japan's tallest waterfall, an iconic natural and spiritual landmark in Wakayama.

Seiganto-ji Temple: A Fusion of Faiths

Just a short walk from Nachi Waterfall stands the Seiganto-ji Temple, a beautiful Buddhist structure that harmoniously blends with the natural landscape. What’s particularly striking about this temple is its proximity to the Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine. For centuries, Shinto and Buddhist traditions coexisted here, each influencing the other in a unique and peaceful way. It wasn’t until the Meiji period in the 19th century that politics forced the separation of these faiths.

The temple's three-story pagoda offers a stunning view of Nachi Waterfall, creating a picture-perfect scene that I couldn't resist capturing with my camera. The vermillion red of the pagoda against the backdrop of the cascading white waterfall is an iconic image of the Kumano Kodo. I climbed to the top of the pagoda, paying a small fee of ¥300, and the panoramic view was simply magnificent. The fresh coat of vermillion paint, applied during the recent refurbishment, made the pagoda even more striking.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a journey into the heart of Japan's spiritual and natural heritage.

As I wandered through the temple grounds, I noticed a memorial dedicated to the fish. It was built by local fishermen to express their gratitude to the whales and fish they catch. This small monument speaks volumes about the deep respect for nature that is ingrained in Japanese culture.

Lunch at Fushiogami Teahouse

For lunch, I ventured to the Fushiogami Teahouse, a charming spot along the Kumano Kodo. This teahouse is more than just a place to grab a bite; it’s an experience in itself. Run by local ladies, it exudes warmth and hospitality. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese tea and some light snacks, soaking in the serene atmosphere. The teahouse is nestled amidst lush greenery, offering a tranquil retreat after a morning of exploration.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

I learned that Fushiogami-oji is where pilgrims would first catch a glimpse of the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine. Overcome with emotion, they would often fall to their knees and pray. This viewpoint offers a panoramic vista of the valley below, providing a sense of perspective and connection to the spiritual significance of the Kumano Kodo.

Souvenirs and Sweets at Nachisan Sightseeing Center

Before heading back, I made a stop at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center. This charming spot is both a souvenir store and a dessert shop. I browsed the handcrafted souvenirs, looking for a small memento of my visit. I finally settled on a beautiful hand-painted fan depicting Nachi Waterfall. I also indulged in a refreshing ice cream, a perfect treat on a warm August day. The staff were incredibly friendly, offering tips about local attractions and hidden gems.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

Dinner at Tororoya

As evening approached, I made my way to Tororoya for dinner. This restaurant is known for its traditional Japanese cuisine, particularly its tororo dishes. Tororo is a yam-based dish that is both nutritious and delicious. I savored a set meal featuring tororo, local vegetables, and grilled fish. The meal was a perfect end to a day of hiking and exploration.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

Reflections on the Day

Today was a day that nourished both my body and soul. The majestic Nachi Waterfall, the serene Seiganto-ji Temple, and the warm hospitality of the local people all contributed to an unforgettable experience. As I reflect on my journey so far, I am struck by the profound sense of peace and connection that the Kumano Kodo offers. It's a journey that challenges you physically, mentally, and spiritually, but the rewards are immeasurable.

As I prepare for tomorrow, I am excited about visiting Kumano-Nachi Taisha and the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. I also plan to try the local cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery for lunch and enjoy a relaxing evening at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. I am sure these experiences will bring more insights and discoveries.

The weather forecast for the next few days predicts continued warmth and humidity, with potential for rain. I will make sure to pack my rain jacket and stay hydrated as I continue my pilgrimage.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to research any local events or festivals happening nearby. I read about the Nachi Fire Festival, which takes place in July, featuring twelve portable shrines and large torches carried by men in white robes. It sounds like a truly spectacular event!

With gratitude in my heart and anticipation for the days ahead, I closed my eyes, ready to embrace whatever adventures tomorrow may bring. The Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and inspire me at every turn, and I am so grateful for this opportunity to explore its sacred paths.