Solo Expedition to Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Chasing the Midnight Sun in Ísafjörður

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of relaxation, exploration, and culinary indulgence that only Iceland could offer. Leaving the cozy confines of my campsite, I set out to experience the magic of the Westfjords, and it certainly didn't disappoint.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Jötunn restaurant in Ísafjörður. Knowing I had a long day ahead, I fuelled up with their delicious sushi and prawns, which came highly recommended. The atmosphere was lovely, and the staff were incredibly friendly, making me feel right at home. It's always a pleasure to start the day with great food and warm hospitality. It definitely set the tone for a day of adventure. I even made a mental note to bring Liam here someday; he would absolutely love the sushi. After breakfast, I decided to do a little shopping at Þristur, a local shop. I needed to pick up a few essentials, including, I am ashamed to admit, insect repellent, which I had completely forgotten to pack. Note to self: always double-check the essentials list! It was a good opportunity to explore the town a little, and I found some lovely handcrafted souvenirs to take back home.


Discover unique Icelandic souvenirs and electronics at Þristur, the charming gift shop in Ísafjörður, perfect for every traveler.

With my errands complete, it was time for the main event: a visit to Krossneslaug, a geothermal pool located in the remote region of Strandir. The drive itself was an adventure, a 90-kilometer journey from Hólmavík along gravel road 643. The landscape was stunning, with mountains on one side and the ocean on the other. Despite the challenging road, the views were more than worth it. I even crossed my fingers, hoping to spot whales in the distance.


Discover the soothing geothermal waters of Krossneslaug, a thermal bath in Árnes, Iceland, surrounded by stunning coastal landscapes.

Arriving at Krossneslaug felt like stepping into another world. The pool is nestled on a black-pebble beach, with the sound of the roaring waves creating a soothing backdrop. The water, heated by natural hot springs, was the perfect temperature, around 30-33°C year-round. I spent hours soaking in the warm water, enjoying the breathtaking views and the tranquility of the surroundings. It was a truly magical experience, and I felt all the stress of the journey melt away. There's something incredibly special about bathing in a remote, naturally heated pool under the open sky.

Sometimes, the most rewarding experiences are found off the beaten path.

After my blissful soak, I made my way back to Ísafjörður, my stomach rumbling in anticipation of dinner. I had heard rave reviews about Tjöruhúsið, a seafood restaurant known for its fresh, local cuisine. The restaurant is housed in an old tar factory, adding to its rustic charm. The interior is reminiscent of a medieval tavern, with low timber beams and warm lighting. The atmosphere was cozy and convivial, with patrons sitting at large communal tables.


Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.

Tjöruhúsið offers a unique dining experience, serving whatever fish the local fishermen caught that day. There's no set menu; instead, they offer a buffet-style selection of various fish dishes, prepared in imaginative ways. I tried a bit of everything, from cod cheeks to halibut cooked in two different ways. The seafood soup was a must-try, and the staff encouraged everyone to try everything. It was a seafood lover's paradise, and I savored every bite. The flavors were incredible, and the freshness of the ingredients was evident in every dish. It's easy to see why this place is considered one of the best seafood restaurants in Iceland.


After such a filling meal, I decided to take a stroll around Ísafjörður to stretch my legs and enjoy the midnight sun. The town was quiet, with a peaceful atmosphere that I found incredibly calming. I ended my evening at Logn, restaurant & bar, located in Hotel Ísafjörður. I enjoyed a nightcap while reflecting on the day's adventures. The bar had a stylish and comfortable setting, and the staff were friendly and welcoming. It was the perfect way to wind down after a day of exploration and relaxation.


Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Logn in Ísafjörður – where fresh local ingredients meet warm hospitality.

As I sit here now, writing this entry, I can't help but feel grateful for the experiences I've had today. From the geothermal bliss of Krossneslaug to the culinary delights of Ísafjörður, this day has been a true feast for the senses. The Westfjords have a unique charm that I find incredibly captivating, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings.


Tomorrow, I'll be spending the entire day exploring the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. I plan to hike through the rugged terrain, photograph the stunning landscapes, and hopefully catch a glimpse of the Arctic foxes that call this place home. I've packed my camera gear, my hiking boots, and a sense of adventure, and I'm ready to immerse myself in the untouched wilderness of Hornstrandir.


Good night from Ísafjörður, and stay tuned for more tales from the wild side of Iceland!