A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Homeward Bound, Heart Full

As my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage draws to a close, a bittersweet feeling washes over me. This journey has been a profound experience of self-discovery amidst breathtaking landscapes and ancient traditions. Today, the final day of my planned itinerary, was all about savoring the last moments, soaking in the spiritual essence of this incredible trail, and preparing for the journey back to Berlin. While my heart is full of anticipation to return to my familiar routine, a part of me will forever remain on these serene, misty paths.

My day began with a hearty Japanese breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. It was a simple yet satisfying meal that fueled me up for the day’s gentle explorations. I opted for the traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, rice, and a medley of pickled vegetables. The flavors were authentic and comforting, a perfect start to a day filled with reflection.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

After breakfast, I made my way to the Fushiogami Teahouse. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. The teahouse was a welcome sight, a cozy nook nestled amidst the verdant hills. It was here, at Fushiogami-oji, that pilgrims would traditionally get their first glimpse of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine, often falling to their knees in prayer. While the shrine was not my destination today, the spiritual significance of the spot was palpable.


Experience tranquility and authentic Japanese tea culture at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe, Wakayama, a perfect retreat for every traveler.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are not about reaching a destination, but about the transformation that occurs within.

Inside, I ordered a cup of matcha tea and a small plate of wagashi, traditional Japanese sweets. The matcha was vibrant green, its slightly bitter taste perfectly balanced by the delicate sweetness of the wagashi. I sat by the window, gazing out at the rolling hills, a patchwork of green and gold under the soft morning light. The tranquility of the teahouse was infectious, and I found myself lost in thought, reflecting on the past fifteen days.

This solo journey has been particularly meaningful. As a freelance software developer, I often find myself immersed in the digital world, constantly connected and bombarded with information. This pilgrimage offered a much-needed respite, a chance to disconnect from technology and reconnect with myself. The solitude of the trail allowed me to confront my thoughts, process my emotions, and gain a clearer perspective on my life. I realized how much I missed the simple act of walking, of being present in nature, and of engaging with the world in a more mindful way.

After the teahouse, I headed to Tsubo-yu Onsen, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the oldest hot springs in Japan. Nestled in a small, unassuming wooden structure beside a creek, Tsubo-yu is a tiny bathhouse that can only accommodate two people at a time. The experience was intimate and deeply relaxing. The mineral-rich waters, known for their healing properties, soothed my tired muscles and eased my mind. Legend has it that the waters change color several times a day, a phenomenon attributed to the mystical forces of the Kumano Kodo. Although I didn't witness the color change myself, the experience was magical nonetheless.


Discover the tranquility of Tsubo-yu, a historic onsen in Wakayama, perfect for relaxation and cultural immersion on your Japanese adventure.

As I soaked in the warm waters, I thought about the pilgrims who had come before me, seeking solace and purification in this sacred place. Emperors and monks alike have sought its waters for their supposed healing qualities. The connection to history and tradition was palpable, adding another layer of depth to the experience. It was a humbling reminder of the enduring power of faith and the human desire for healing and renewal.

Before leaving the Nachi area, I stopped by the Nachisan Sightseeing Center to pick up a few souvenirs. I wanted to bring back something tangible to remind me of this incredible journey. I settled on a small, hand-painted ceramic bell and a packet of locally sourced green tea. The center was bustling with tourists, a mix of locals and foreigners, all eager to capture a piece of the Kumano Kodo to take home with them.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

For lunch, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. Nestled in a renovated 90-year-old farmhouse, this guest house offers an authentic Italian culinary feast. Giovanni dal Bosco, the owner and chef, came to Japan in 2013 and has since created a culinary haven for travelers seeking a unique experience. The restaurant was listed in The Michelin Guide in 2022, a testament to the quality and creativity of the cuisine.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

I opted for the pilgrim menu, which featured Kumano Wagyu beef. The meal was a symphony of flavors, each dish carefully crafted with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The Wagyu beef was tender and succulent, melting in my mouth with each bite. The ambiance of the farmhouse was warm and inviting, a perfect setting for a celebratory meal. It was a delightful contrast to the traditional Japanese cuisine I had been enjoying throughout my pilgrimage, a reminder of my own European roots and the diverse culinary landscape of Japan.

In the evening, I had my final dinner at Kumagoro. It seemed a fitting way to end my Kumano Kodo adventure. The restaurant offered a cozy and inviting atmosphere, perfect for reflecting on the journey. I savored each bite, appreciating the simple yet exquisite flavors.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

As the day comes to an end, I find myself filled with gratitude for this experience. The Kumano Kodo has challenged me, inspired me, and transformed me in ways I could not have imagined. I came seeking a break from the digital world and a chance to reconnect with nature, but I leave with so much more. I leave with a deeper understanding of myself, a greater appreciation for Japanese culture, and a renewed sense of purpose.

Tomorrow, I will begin my journey back to Osaka, and then onwards to Berlin. While I am eager to return to my familiar routine, I know that a part of me will forever remain on the Kumano Kodo, walking those ancient paths, soaking in the spiritual essence of this incredible place. This pilgrimage has been a gift, a reminder of the importance of slowing down, of connecting with nature, and of embracing the journey, wherever it may lead.

The experience has also given me ideas for my travel blog. Perhaps I can write about integrating technology with nature, finding ways to use digital tools to enhance our connection with the environment rather than detract from it. Or maybe I can focus on the parallels between the Kumano Kodo and other pilgrimage routes around the world, exploring the universal human desire for spiritual connection and self-discovery. The possibilities are endless, and I am excited to see where this journey will take me next.

For now, though, I will savor these last moments, breathing in the fresh mountain air, listening to the gentle sounds of the forest, and cherishing the memories of this transformative pilgrimage. The Kumano Kodo has left an indelible mark on my soul, a mark that I will carry with me always.

Looking back on the trip, I realize I forgot to pack sunscreen and an umbrella, which would have been useful during some of the sunnier and wetter days. But even these minor inconveniences added to the authenticity of the experience, a reminder that perfection is not the goal, but rather the journey itself. And what a journey it has been!

As I prepare to leave, I already find myself contemplating a return to these sacred paths. Perhaps next time, I will explore a different section of the Kumano Kodo, or maybe I will embark on another pilgrimage route in a different part of the world. The possibilities are endless, and the spirit of adventure has been rekindled within me. Until then, I will carry the lessons and memories of the Kumano Kodo with me, a reminder that the most profound journeys are often the ones we take within ourselves.