A Family Adventure in the Loire Valley

Chaumont's Enchanting Embrace

Today was a day of pure Loire Valley magic, the kind that makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a fairy tale. Leaving our cozy guesthouse, the crisp January air nipped at our cheeks, but the promise of stunning gardens and historical grandeur spurred us onward. The destination? Château de Chaumont, a place where history and horticulture intertwine to create an unforgettable experience.


Discover the enchanting Château de Chaumont, where history, art, and stunning gardens converge in the heart of the Loire Valley.

Our first stop was the Auberge Pom'Poire for breakfast. It was a delightful start to the day. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong coffee filled the air, instantly warming us from the inside out. I savored a flaky croissant while Émile devoured his pain au chocolat with impressive speed. Sophie enjoyed a more traditional French breakfast of tartines with butter and jam. It’s these simple moments, shared over good food, that make traveling with family so special. The Michelin Guide rightly praises this restaurant! The location was charming and the staff very welcoming.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off for the Château de Chaumont. As we approached, the castle emerged from the landscape, its stone walls rising majestically above the Loire. The history of this place is palpable; founded in the 10th century, it has witnessed centuries of French history unfold. I couldn’t help but imagine the counts and kings, the artists and visionaries who had walked these same grounds.

The Château de Chaumont has a rich history, initially founded around the year 1000 by Odo I, Count of Blois. It was strategically built to keep watch over the border between Blois and Anjou. Over the centuries, it passed through various hands, including those of Catherine de Medici, who famously forced Diane de Poitiers to exchange it for the Château de Chenonceau. Imagine the stories these walls could tell!

The beauty of Chaumont lies not just in its stones, but in the stories whispered by its gardens.

Exploring the château itself was like stepping back in time. The architecture is a fascinating blend of medieval and Renaissance styles, reflecting the different eras in which it was built and rebuilt. We wandered through the grand halls, admiring the intricate tapestries, the ornate fireplaces, and the stunning views of the Loire River from the windows. I tried to picture what life must have been like for the nobles who once called this place home.

Émile, of course, was most fascinated by the suits of armor and the weaponry on display. He peppered me with questions about knights and battles, his imagination running wild with tales of daring deeds and heroic feats. Sophie, ever the translator, helped us decipher some of the old French inscriptions and explained the significance of the various coats of arms.

After immersing ourselves in the history of the château, we ventured into the Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire, which is a real treat. The gardens here are not just an afterthought; they are an integral part of the Chaumont experience. Known for its International Garden Festival, the Domaine showcases innovative and creative landscape designs from around the world. Even in January, the skeletal structures of the gardens held a stark beauty, hinting at the vibrant life that would soon burst forth in the spring.


Explore the breathtaking gardens and historical charm of Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire, a must-visit destination for art and nature lovers.

We strolled through the different themed gardens, each one a unique and thought-provoking creation. Some were whimsical and playful, others were serene and contemplative. Émile loved running through the winding paths and discovering hidden nooks and crannies. I was particularly impressed by the way the gardens incorporated art and nature, blurring the lines between the two.

The Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire is more than just a collection of gardens; it’s a center for art and nature, a place where contemporary art installations blend seamlessly with the landscape. We stumbled upon sculptures hidden amongst the trees, and quirky installations that made us smile. It was a reminder that art can be found in the most unexpected places.

After our exploration of the gardens, we took a leisurely stroll along Le Port de Chaumont-sur-Loire. Even in the off-season, the views of the Loire were captivating. I could imagine how lively this area must be in the summer months. We considered taking a traditional boat tour, but the January chill convinced us otherwise. Instead, we promised ourselves we’d return in warmer weather to experience the Loire from a different perspective. I read that the mariners of the Loire will be meeting in Chaumont-sur-Loire in September, as they did in the 16th century to transport stones from Tours to the castle, which would be an occasion to revisit the area.


Experience the enchanting beauty and serene atmosphere of Le Port de Chaumont-sur-Loire, a picturesque tourist attraction along the Loire River.

Lunch was at Restaurant Le Château de Pray, a Michelin-starred establishment that lived up to its reputation. The setting was stunning, a medieval castle with elegant dining rooms and views of the Loire. The food was exquisite, each dish a work of art in itself. I savored every bite, appreciating the chef’s skill and creativity. Sophie, ever the foodie, was in heaven, analyzing the different flavors and textures with expert precision. Émile, surprisingly, was on his best behavior, even trying some of the more adventurous dishes.


Experience exquisite French cuisine and breathtaking views at Restaurant Le Château de Pray in Amboise.

While the food was undeniably impressive, I did overhear some other diners expressing concerns about slow service. Thankfully, our experience was smooth, but it’s something to keep in mind if you plan to visit. It is an expensive meal, but it was worth it. I was particularly charmed by chef Arnaud Philippon’s daring creations. The hotel itself looks lovely, and I’d consider staying there in another visit.

After lunch, we made a quick stop at Un Coin de France Sarl, a charming little shop in Chaumont-sur-Loire. I was on the hunt for a small souvenir to remind me of our trip. The shop was filled with all sorts of French culinary treasures, from kitchen tools to gourmet ingredients. I ended up buying a small French coin purse for Sophie and a set of colorful measuring spoons for myself. I always love bringing a little piece of the places we visit back home with us.


Explore culinary treasures at Un Coin de France Sarl, a kitchen supply store in the heart of Amboise, offering quality tools for every chef.

As the day drew to a close, we headed to Auberge du Prieuré for dinner. Tucked away in a quiet corner of Chaumont-sur-Loire, this restaurant promised a cozy and authentic French dining experience. The menu was filled with traditional dishes made with local ingredients. I opted for the coq au vin, while Sophie chose the boeuf bourguignon. Émile, predictably, went for the steak frites.


Discover authentic French cuisine at Auberge du Prieuré in Amboise, where every dish tells a story of local tradition and flavor.

The food was hearty and delicious, the perfect way to end a day of exploring. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, the kind of place where you could easily spend hours chatting and laughing with friends and family. It was a fitting end to a day that had been filled with beauty, history, and culinary delights. I sampled the menu degustation, while Sophie enjoyed the à la carte options.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, we plan to visit the Château de Meung-sur-Loire and the Royal Château of Blois. I'm particularly excited about the Royal Château of Blois. It's known for its stunning architecture and the role it played in French history. Plus, we might check out Le Shaker, a local bar, for a nightcap.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post from our guesthouse, I can’t help but feel grateful for the experiences we’ve had today. The Loire Valley has a way of captivating you, of transporting you to another time and place. It’s a place where history comes alive, where art flourishes, and where the simple pleasures of life are celebrated. And to share it all with my family makes it even more special.

I’m also realizing that I forgot to pack my raincoat and binoculars for bird watching. I’ll need to remember to buy those tomorrow. It’s supposed to rain tomorrow, and I’d hate to miss out on the opportunity to spot some of the local wildlife.

Until tomorrow, mes amis!