A Family Adventure in the Loire Valley

Saumur's Surprises: From Royal Heights to Earthy Delights

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of regal history and quirky exploration that only the Loire Valley could offer. We traded the familiar comforts of our guesthouse for the imposing Château de Saumur and the subterranean world of mushrooms. It's funny how travel can throw you into such diverse experiences, making you appreciate the breadth of culture and history packed into a single region.


Explore the rich history and stunning architecture of Château de Saumur, a captivating castle in the heart of the Loire Valley.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Auberge Pom'Poire. Sophie and Émile were particularly charmed by the cozy atmosphere. I enjoyed a strong coffee, fortifying myself for the day's adventures. The auberge itself was nestled amongst the orchards, and I wished we could have stayed longer, but the lure of Saumur beckoned. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of the dishes I experienced here when we returned to Montreal – perhaps a little taste of the Loire Valley would brighten up those cold Canadian evenings. The warm welcome and delicious food made me feel right at home, a sentiment I always cherish when traveling.

First on our agenda was the Château de Saumur. As we approached, the castle dominated the skyline, perched high as if guarding the town below. The architecture was stunning, a mix of medieval and Renaissance styles that told stories of sieges and royal residences. Parking near the river, we took a pleasant hike up the hill, a worthy trek that allowed us to fully appreciate the castle's grandeur. The January air was crisp, but the views were worth it. I must remember to pack my raincoat next time, the skies are unpredictable in this part of the world.

Inside, Sophie was immediately captivated by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, with its exquisite collection of European china and tapestries. Émile, predictably, was more interested in the Musée du Cheval, housed in the attic. I found myself equally drawn to both, marveling at the craftsmanship of the tapestries and the intricate details of the saddles and equestrian gear. It was fascinating to learn about the castle's history, from its origins as a fortress to its time as a prison. It's amazing how one building can hold so many different stories. The free English tour made the visit even more engaging, providing insights that we wouldn't have gleaned on our own. From its lofty position, the views of the town and the Loire River were breathtaking. It was easy to imagine kings and queens gazing out over their domain from these very windows.

To see the world, things dangerous to come to, to see behind walls, draw closer, to find each other, and to feel. That is the purpose of life.

After immersing ourselves in history and art, we decided to embrace the quirkier side of Saumur and headed to the Musée du Champignon. I'll admit, I was a bit skeptical at first. A museum dedicated to mushrooms? But as soon as we stepped inside the troglodyte galleries, I was hooked. The museum was fascinating, with over 250 species of mushrooms on display. Émile was particularly enthralled by the educational mushroom farm. He loved getting his hands dirty and learning about the different stages of mushroom cultivation. Sophie, ever the curious one, peppered our guide with questions about the various uses of mushrooms, from culinary to medicinal. I was fascinated by the troglodyte cellars themselves, carved into the limestone rock. I couldn't help but think of my genealogy research back in Montreal, and how different life must have been for those who lived in these caves.


Explore the enchanting world of mushrooms at the Musée du Champignon in Saumur, where nature meets culinary delights in an engaging museum.

The Musée du Champignon was a hit with all of us. It was educational, quirky, and surprisingly beautiful. Who knew there was so much to learn about mushrooms? It was a reminder that even the most unexpected places can offer profound insights and delightful experiences. It's these kinds of unexpected discoveries that make travel so rewarding. The museum is located a short drive from downtown Saumur, and I would highly recommend it to anyone visiting the area. It's a great activity for families, and it's a fun way to learn about the region's unique troglodyte heritage.

As evening approached, we found ourselves at Le Vieux Château bar/brasserie/terrasse, a cozy spot with a view of the castle. We sipped local wines and reminisced about our day. Émile was still talking about the mushrooms, while Sophie was poring over a guidebook, planning our adventures for tomorrow. I savored the moment, feeling grateful for the chance to share these experiences with my family. The weather was cool, but the atmosphere was warm and inviting. I noticed a few locals chatting at the bar, and I couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to this place. It's moments like these that make me feel like a true traveler, not just a tourist.


Discover Le Vieux Château, a charming bar and café in Tours offering delectable cuisine and refreshing drinks amidst a welcoming atmosphere.

For dinner, we had reservations at Restaurant Le Château de Pray in Amboise. While it was a bit of a drive, the promise of a fine dining experience in a historic setting was too tempting to resist. Sophie had read rave reviews of the restaurant, and we were both eager to try their innovative take on French cuisine. Emile, of course, was just hoping for something with plenty of butter. The restaurant is nestled in a beautiful chateau, and the ambiance was perfect for a special occasion. I made sure to get the details right with Sophie before we left, as I knew how much she was looking forward to the experience.


Experience exquisite French cuisine and breathtaking views at Restaurant Le Château de Pray in Amboise.

Tomorrow, we're off to Château de Langeais and Château d'Azay-le-Rideau. More castles, more history, and more opportunities to make memories. I'm also hoping to try out Bar Le Corsaire in the evening. I hear they have a great selection of local beers. But for now, it's time to rest and recharge, ready for another day of exploration in the beautiful Loire Valley.

As I reflect on today, I'm struck by the incredible diversity of experiences the Loire Valley offers. From the grandeur of Château de Saumur to the quirky charm of the Musée du Champignon, there's something here for everyone. It's a reminder that travel is about more than just ticking off famous landmarks. It's about embracing the unexpected, immersing yourself in local culture, and creating memories that will last a lifetime. The rain held off today, but I'll be sure to pack my raincoat tomorrow. You never know what adventures await! I'm so glad I decided to share this adventure with Sophie and Émile, as experiencing new cultures and histories is always better when done with family. Tomorrow's forecast looks promising, so hopefully we will have clear skies as we explore more of the Loire Valley's treasures.