Exploring the Ancient Wonders of Delphi with Family

A Day of Remembrance

As our journey through Greece nears its end, today was dedicated to paying homage to the past, to the battles fought and the lives lost that have shaped this incredible land. Aoife, Liam, and I set out with a sense of reverence, eager to connect with the stories etched into the very stones of Chaeronea and Distomo. It’s funny, isn’t it? How places can hold so much sorrow and yet still inspire such awe.

We started our day with a hearty breakfast at Delphi Restaurant. I had a traditional Greek yogurt with honey and walnuts, Aoife opted for some fresh fruit, and Liam, ever the growing lad, devoured a stack of pancakes. Fueled up and ready for the day, we set off to our first destination: The Lion of Chaeronea.


Explore the Lion of Chaeronea, an ancient monument honoring the brave soldiers of a pivotal battle, surrounded by stunning Greek landscapes.

The Lion of Chaeronea

The drive to Chaeronea was beautiful, winding through the Greek countryside with its rolling hills and olive groves shimmering under the morning sun. As we approached the site, the Lion of Chaeronea came into view, standing tall and proud against the backdrop of the Boeotian plains. This monument, almost six meters high, commemorates the Battle of Chaeronea in 338 BC, where Philip II of Macedon defeated the allied Greek states. It was a pivotal moment in history, marking the decline of the independent city-states and the rise of Macedonian dominance. I tried to imagine the clash of swords, the cries of soldiers, and the sheer determination of both sides on that fateful day.

The lion itself is a powerful symbol. Originally erected by the Thebans to honor their fallen, it now stands as a reminder of the sacrifices made on this field. Underneath the monument lies a mass grave, believed to hold the remains of the Sacred Band of Thebes, an elite unit of 150 pairs of lovers who fought to the death. It’s a poignant thought, isn’t it? That love and loyalty could inspire such bravery.

History is who we are and why we are the way we are.

I shared with Aoife and Liam the story of the Sacred Band, and we stood in silence for a moment, contemplating the weight of history. Liam, always keen on military history, was particularly fascinated by the battle tactics and the strategies employed by Philip II. Aoife, with her librarian’s heart, was more interested in the personal stories of the soldiers, the lives they led, and the loves they left behind. As for me, I couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to these ancient warriors, a shared understanding of the human spirit's capacity for both great courage and profound loss.

It’s incredible to think that this field witnessed so many battles over the centuries. Romans, Catalans, Franks, Greeks, and Turks all clashed here, each leaving their mark on the land. Standing there, I felt like I could almost hear the echoes of their struggles, a symphony of war and resilience.

Before leaving Chaeronea, we took a moment to explore the surrounding area. We learned that Chaeronea was the birthplace of Plutarch, the renowned biographer and essayist. It gave me a strange sense of connection, knowing that a man who had walked this very ground had gone on to write about the lives of so many famous figures from antiquity. Perhaps it was the air, thick with history, that inspired such profound storytelling.

Distomo Mausoleum

Our next stop was Distomo Mausoleum, a town with a much more recent, yet equally tragic, history. The Distomo Mausoleum stands as a stark reminder of the atrocities committed during World War II. In June 1944, Nazi SS troops massacred 228 civilians in Distomo, including women and children, in retaliation for a partisan attack. It was a brutal act of collective punishment that left an indelible scar on the town and its people.


Discover the poignant history of the Distomo Mausoleum, a serene memorial park honoring the memory of wartime victims in Greece.

The drive to Distomo was somber. The landscape seemed to reflect the gravity of our destination. As we approached the mausoleum, a sense of profound sadness washed over me. The monument, located on Kanalles Hill, is a simple yet powerful structure. Inside, an ossuary holds the skulls of the victims, a chilling reminder of the lives that were so cruelly taken.

Walking through the mausoleum, we read the names of the fallen, each one a story cut short by senseless violence. Aoife was visibly moved, her eyes welling up as she traced the names of the children. Liam, usually stoic, stood in silence, his youthful face etched with a rare solemnity. I tried to imagine the horror of that day, the fear and desperation of the villagers as the SS troops stormed through their homes.

It's difficult to reconcile the beauty of the Greek landscape with the brutality of its history. But it's important to remember, to bear witness to these events, so that we can learn from the past and work towards a more peaceful future. As an antiques dealer, I often handle objects that have survived wars and conflicts. Each item carries a story, a silent testament to the resilience of the human spirit. But the Distomo Mausoleum is different. It’s not just about survival; it’s about remembrance, about honoring the victims and ensuring that their stories are never forgotten.

After paying our respects at the mausoleum, we drove through the town of Distomo. We noticed the Nazi Victims' Museum, which displays photographs and documents from the massacre. We didn't have time to visit, but I made a mental note to return someday and learn more about the events of that day.

Before leaving Distomo, we stopped for a late lunch at Kalýba. It was a simple, traditional taverna, filled with locals enjoying their midday meal. We ordered a selection of Greek dishes – souvlaki, tzatziki, and a fresh salad – and ate in silence, each of us lost in our thoughts. The food was delicious, but it was hard to shake off the weight of the day’s experiences.


Discover Kalýba in Arachova for authentic Greek flavors amidst stunning mountain scenery.

Souvenirs and Reflections

On our way back to Delphi, we stopped at Meandros Souvenir Shop. I usually enjoy browsing through local shops, looking for unique items to add to my collection. Aoife loves finding little trinkets to remind her of our travels, and Liam always has an eye out for interesting books or maps. Today, however, the atmosphere felt different. It was difficult to reconcile the lightheartedness of souvenir shopping with the somber mood of the day.


Discover the charm of Meandros Souvenir Shop in Delphi, your go-to place for unique gifts and local crafts that capture the essence of Greece.

Still, we browsed through the shop, admiring the handcrafted pottery, the intricate jewelry, and the colorful textiles. I ended up buying a small, hand-painted plate depicting a scene from ancient Delphi. Aoife found a beautiful silver necklace with a meander pattern, a traditional Greek design symbolizing eternity. Liam, true to form, picked up a guidebook on the history of Boeotia.

As we drove back to our hotel, the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the mountains. I thought about the day’s experiences, the battles fought, the lives lost, and the lessons learned. It’s easy to get caught up in the beauty of Greece, to be mesmerized by its ancient ruins and stunning landscapes. But it’s important to remember the darker chapters of its history, to acknowledge the suffering and the sacrifices that have shaped this land.

I thought of my own life back in Dublin, of my antiques shop and my quiet existence. I wondered if I was doing enough to honor the past, to contribute to a better future. Perhaps that’s why I started this blog, to share my experiences and to connect with others who are interested in history and culture. Maybe, in some small way, I can help to keep these stories alive.

For dinner, we decided to try Maistrali Restaurant. The food was excellent, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. We talked about our favorite moments from the trip, the places we had visited, and the people we had met. It was a fitting end to a day of remembrance, a reminder that even in the face of tragedy, life goes on, and there is always hope for the future.


Experience authentic Greek cuisine with breathtaking views at Maistrali Restaurant in Itea - a culinary delight on your Mediterranean journey.

As I sit here in my hotel room, writing these words, I feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences of the past 13 days. Greece has been more than just a vacation; it has been a journey of discovery, a chance to connect with the past, and a reminder of the importance of remembrance. Tomorrow, we head back to Dublin, back to our familiar routines. But I know that a part of me will always remain here, in the land of ancient ruins and poignant memorials.

Tomorrow, we leave Greece, carrying with us the echoes of ancient battles and the weight of more recent tragedies. It’s a somber note to end on, but also a powerful reminder of the importance of remembering the past as we move forward.