Exploring the Natural and Cultural Wonders of Pelion, Greece

Chugging Along History

Today was a day of nostalgia and breathtaking views as we embarked on a journey aboard the legendary The Little Train of Pelion. It's amazing how a simple train ride can transport you not just geographically, but also through time, offering glimpses into the region's rich history and stunning natural beauty. Emily, Oliver and I were all excited to experience this unique piece of Pelion's heritage.


Discover the picturesque landscapes and charming villages of the Pelion Peninsula aboard The Little Train, a unique journey through nature's wonders.

Our day began in Zagora, where we enjoyed a delightful breakfast at Ylien Cafe. The cafe was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all eager to start their day with a good cup of coffee and some local treats. Emily opted for a traditional Greek coffee, while Oliver and I went for something a bit more familiar, cappuccinos. We also shared a delicious apple pie, which was the perfect way to fuel up for our train adventure. The atmosphere was cozy, and it was easy to see why this spot is so beloved in Zagora.


Experience authentic Greek hospitality at Υληεν - Ylien Cafe in Zagora with delicious coffee, diverse cuisine, and stunning views.

With our appetites satisfied, we made our way towards starting point of the train. The drive itself was scenic, winding through lush landscapes and offering glimpses of the Pagasetic Gulf. It reminded me of drives back home in Nova Scotia, although the vegetation was decidedly more Mediterranean. We parked the car and eagerly boarded the train. The train, affectionately known as Moutzouris (the Smudgy one), has a fascinating history, designed by Evaristo de Chirico, the father of the famous painter Giorgio de Chirico. The train played a vital role in the economic growth of the region.

As the train chugged along, the views were simply spectacular. We passed through picturesque villages, over stone bridges, and through tunnels carved into the mountainside. The landscape was a vibrant tapestry of green, with plane trees, olive groves, and pine forests blanketing the hillsides. Oliver, with his youthful enthusiasm, was particularly captivated by the journey, peppering us with questions about the train's history and the surrounding nature. Emily and I were content to soak in the scenery and the gentle rhythm of the train.

The Little Train of Pelion is more than just a mode of transport; it's a journey through time, a celebration of nature, and a testament to human ingenuity.

One of the highlights of the train ride was our stop at Ano Gatzea. We had a brief 15-minute window to explore the Olive and Oil Museum. It was a fascinating glimpse into the region's olive oil production, a tradition that has shaped Pelion's culture and economy for centuries. We learned about the traditional methods of olive harvesting and oil extraction, and even got to sample some locally produced olive oil. It was a truly immersive experience that deepened our appreciation for the region's agricultural heritage.

Back on the train, we continued our journey to Milies, the final destination. Upon arrival, we witnessed the ingenious maneuver of reversing the locomotive, a testament to the ingenuity of the train's original design. We disembarked and took a leisurely stroll through the village, admiring the traditional architecture and soaking in the tranquil atmosphere. Milies is steeped in history, and it was here that Anthimos Gazis raised the flag of revolution against the Turkish occupation on May 7th, 1821.

For lunch, we decided to try Pagasitikos Restaurant in Kala Nera. This family-run taverna has been serving traditional Pelion cuisine since 1934. The restaurant is right next to the beach, offering a very friendly and unique atmosphere. We enjoyed a variety of local specialties, including barbequed meats, beef casserole served in traditional clay pots, and fresh seafood. The food was delicious, and the portions were generous. Oliver particularly enjoyed the calamari, while Emily raved about the moussaka. I savored the kleftiko, a slow-cooked lamb dish that was bursting with flavor.


Discover authentic Greek flavors at Pagasitikos Restaurant in Kala Nera - a must-visit culinary destination overlooking the stunning Pagasetic Gulf.

After our satisfying lunch, we took a short walk along the beach in Kala Nera. The crystal-clear waters of the Pagasetic Gulf were inviting, and we couldn't resist dipping our toes in the sea. The beach was lined with trees, providing shade from the afternoon sun. It was a perfect spot to relax and unwind after our train adventure. The sea was so calm and inviting.

As evening approached, we made our way to Portaria for dinner at Αρχοντικό Παραδοσιακό Εστιατόριο / Archontiko Traditional Restaurant. This restaurant is known for its authentic Greek cuisine and cozy atmosphere. The restaurant celebrates authentic Greek cuisine with a delightful array of dishes. We started with some traditional appetizers, such as tzatziki and dolmades, before moving on to our main courses. Emily ordered the rolled aubergine, which she declared was a standout dish. Oliver opted for the giouvetsi, a classic Greek pasta dish. I chose the chortopita, a savory greens pie that was both comforting and delicious. The restaurant also had a great selection of local wines, which perfectly complemented our meal. The service was incredible, ensuring that every visit feels personalized and warm.


Savor authentic Greek cuisine in Portaria's charming Archontiko Traditional Restaurant, where tradition meets taste.

To cap off our day, we decided to check out Grooove, a bar in Volos known for its cocktails and lively atmosphere. It turned out to be the perfect spot to unwind and reflect on our adventures. Grooove's philosophy is based on real flavors, fresh ingredients, products with history and quality and experiences collected from travels abroad. I opted for a local craft beer, while Emily enjoyed a glass of wine. Oliver, being underage, settled for a refreshing juice. The bar had a great vibe, with music playing and people chatting and laughing. It was a fitting end to a day filled with history, nature, and culinary delights. The bar is known for being one of the best in Greece.


Experience the vibrant nightlife of Volos at Grooove, a stylish bar offering unique cocktails and a lively atmosphere until the early morning hours.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Pelion Ski Centre. It seems a bit strange to think about skiing in August, but I'm curious to see what the mountain looks like in the summer. We'll also be trying out some local restaurants in the area, including ΑΡΧΟΝΤΙΚΟ ΕΣΤΙΑΤΟΡΙΟ for breakfast, Me Mostra for lunch, and ΑΝΝΑ ΜΑΡΙΑ for dinner. And of course, we'll be sure to check out Peritechno, a local shop.

Pelion continues to surprise and delight us at every turn. It's a region that seamlessly blends history, nature, and culture, offering something for everyone. As I sit here writing this, I can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience this beautiful corner of the world with my family. It's moments like these that make travel so rewarding, creating memories that will last a lifetime.

The trip reminded me of a quote by the great travel writer, Pico Iyer:

We travel, initially, to lose ourselves; and we travel, next, to find ourselves.

And that's exactly what this trip has been about – losing ourselves in the beauty and charm of Pelion, and in the process, rediscovering ourselves and our connection to each other. I am also glad I remembered to pack my camera, but I am kicking myself for forgetting my sunglasses and portable phone charger. I will need them tomorrow for sure. I am also thinking of looking into some food and wine tours.