A Solo Journey Through Seville's Historic Heart

Seville's Sacred and Secular Wonders

Today, I embarked on a journey through Seville that blended the spiritual with the aristocratic, a day of discovery that unveiled hidden corners of this magnificent city. From the grandeur of a collegiate church to the intimate beauty of a countess's palace, Seville continued to enchant me with its layered history and vibrant culture. Today was a day to soak in the details, to appreciate the artistry, and to let the stories of Seville’s past resonate within me.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Torres y García. Despite some mixed reviews I had read, I decided to try it anyway, drawn in by its reputation for blending rustic charm with modern cuisine. I found the atmosphere inviting, a perfect spot to fuel up before a day of exploration. The coffee was strong, just how I like it, and the *tostada con tomate* was a simple yet satisfying start to the day. I made a mental note to Hans-Peter that we should try to recreate this simple breakfast at home. We could even try growing our own tomatoes in our small city garden. I think Sophia would enjoy helping us out. I left feeling energized and ready to delve into Seville's historical treasures.

My first stop was the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador. As I approached the church, the sheer scale of the building was impressive. Built on the site of a former mosque, its history is palpable, a testament to the many layers of Seville’s past. The architecture is a stunning example of Baroque style, with intricate details and a sense of grandeur that invites reverence.


Explore the stunning Baroque beauty of Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador, a historical gem in the heart of Seville's vibrant Casco Antiguo.
Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the play of light and shadow, the soaring dome, and the opulent altarpieces. The church is home to numerous chapels, each a work of art in its own right. I found myself particularly drawn to the main altarpiece, its gilded surfaces reflecting the sunlight in a dazzling display. I spent some time admiring the sculptures and paintings, each telling a story of faith and devotion. The Iglesia del Divino Salvador, after the Cathedral, stands as Seville's second-largest church. The church's construction, spanning from 1674 to 1712, replaced what was once the city's grand mosque. The patio of orange trees, a serene remnant of the mosque, provides a tranquil contrast to the church's Baroque splendor.

The beauty of Seville lies not just in its grand monuments, but in the quiet stories whispered by its stones.

Leaving the church, I walked towards my next destination: the Palace of the Countess of Lebrija. This was a place I was particularly excited to visit, given my interest in ancient history and archaeology. The palace is known as the “best paved house-palace in Europe,” and it certainly lived up to its reputation.


Explore the majestic Palace of the Countess of Lebrija, a historic museum rich in art and culture, located in the heart of Seville's charming Casco Antiguo.
The Palace of the Countess of Lebrija is a hidden gem that offers a glimpse into the opulent world of Sevillian aristocracy and the passion of a woman for archaeology. Built in the 16th century, it was purchased in 1901 by Doña Regla Manjón Mergelina, the Countess of Lebrija, who dedicated her life to restoring and embellishing it with her extensive collection of Roman mosaics and archaeological finds. As I stepped through the entrance, I was transported back in time, surrounded by the countess's exquisite taste and her dedication to preserving history. The central courtyard, with its stunning Roman mosaic floor depicting scenes from mythology, was an absolute highlight. The way the light played across the ancient stones was mesmerizing.

Each room in the palace is filled with treasures, from ancient sculptures and pottery to intricate tilework and ornate furniture. It felt like stepping into a private museum, a place where history came alive through the eyes of a passionate collector. I was particularly impressed by the library, filled with ancient texts and rare editions, a testament to the countess's love of learning. I couldn't help but imagine her, surrounded by these books, delving into the mysteries of the past. The Countess of Lebrija, a woman of immense culture and a pioneer in archaeology, not only filled her palace with treasures but also became the first woman to be a member of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Saint Elizabeth of Hungary, marking her as a significant figure in Seville's cultural history. I spent a long time wandering through the palace, soaking in the atmosphere and imagining the lives of those who had walked these halls before me. It was a truly special experience, one that I will cherish for a long time. As a librarian, I felt a particular connection to the Countess of Lebrija, a kindred spirit who understood the importance of preserving and celebrating our shared history. I think she would have been thrilled to learn about the work I do back in Leipzig, bringing the stories of the past to life for a new generation.

For lunch, I had made a reservation at Casa Manolo León. The restaurant is housed in a beautiful old building, with a charming courtyard that provides a tranquil setting for a meal. I started with the octopus, which was cooked to perfection, tender and flavorful. For my main course, I opted for the beef tenderloin with mustard and mushrooms, a dish that was rich and satisfying. The service was attentive, and the atmosphere was relaxed and elegant. It was a perfect spot to take a break from sightseeing and enjoy the flavors of Seville. I was very happy with my choice, and I would certainly recommend it to anyone looking for a special dining experience.


Discover authentic Andalusian cuisine at Casa Manolo León in Seville's historic Casco Antiguo district.
After lunch, I made my way to the Hospital los Venerables, another of Seville's hidden gems. This baroque building, originally a residence for priests, now houses the Velázquez Center, dedicated to the famous painter Diego Velázquez. The hospital was founded in 1675 by Canon Justino de Neve, serving as a home for elderly priests. Over time, it transformed from a place of care to a textile factory and, ultimately, a cultural hub after being restored by the Focus-Abengoa Foundation. As I entered the hospital, I was struck by the sense of peace and tranquility that pervaded the space. The architecture is beautiful, with a central courtyard surrounded by arched walkways and ornate details. The Velázquez Center offers a fascinating insight into the artist's life and work, with a collection of paintings and exhibits that showcase his talent and influence. I spent some time admiring the art, learning about Velázquez's techniques and his impact on the world of painting.


Explore the stunning Baroque architecture and serene atmosphere of Hospital los Venerables in the heart of Seville's historic district.
The Hospital de los Venerables is not only a museum but also a living testament to Seville's rich history and artistic heritage. The chapel, dedicated to San Fernando, features breathtaking ceiling murals by Valdés Leal, further enhancing the site's artistic significance. The hospital is a reminder of the city's commitment to preserving its cultural treasures and sharing them with the world. I was particularly moved by the story of the hospital's transformation, from a place of care to a center for art and culture. It is a testament to the power of art to heal and inspire, to bring people together and to celebrate our shared humanity.

As the afternoon drew to a close, I decided to treat myself to a drink at Bar Casa Morales, one of Seville's oldest and most traditional tapas bars. The bar has been serving locals and visitors since 1850, and it feels like stepping back in time when you walk through the door. The atmosphere is lively and convivial, with people chatting and laughing over drinks and tapas. I ordered a glass of local wine and a plate of *jamón ibérico*, and I settled in to soak up the atmosphere. The *jamón* was delicious, melt-in-your-mouth perfection, and the wine was the perfect accompaniment. I struck up a conversation with a local, who shared stories about the bar's history and its importance to the community. It was a perfect way to end the day, surrounded by the sights, sounds, and flavors of Seville.


Experience authentic tapas at Bar Casa Morales, a charming Seville bar blending tradition and flavor in the heart of the city.
For dinner, I had made a reservation at T Espacio Gastronómico, a restaurant that promises a culinary journey through the flavors of Andalusia. I opted for the tasting menu, a multi-course experience that showcased the chef's creativity and skill. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. From the delicate seafood to the rich meats and the decadent desserts, every bite was a delight. The service was impeccable, and the sommelier paired each course with a perfect wine. It was a truly memorable dining experience, one that I will savor for a long time. I think Hans-Peter and I would really enjoy this restaurant together, perhaps we will revisit Seville as a couple.


Discover exquisite Mediterranean flavors at T Espacio Gastronómico - where tradition meets innovation in the heart of Seville.
As I walked back to my hotel, the city was bathed in the warm glow of streetlights, the air filled with the sounds of music and laughter. Seville is a city that comes alive at night, and I felt grateful to be a part of it, even for a short time. I reflected on the day's adventures, the churches and palaces, the art and history, the food and wine. Seville is a city that nourishes the soul, a place where the past and the present intertwine to create something truly magical.

Tomorrow, I am planning on leaving the city a little to visit the Conjunto Arqueológico de Itálica, the Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo and the Roman Necropolis of Carmona. I also plan on visiting La Importadora Shop Gallery. I am looking forward to learning more about the Roman history of the region. I hope I will be able to find some unique souvenirs to bring back to Leipzig. I really must remember to buy Sophia something special!