Exploring the Historical Wonders of Granada with Friends
Day 8: A Day of Tranquility and Tastes in Granada
Discover Granada's hidden gems, from the serene El Maristán to the vibrant Capitán Amargo, in a day filled with history and flavor.
Granada's Hidden Sanctuaries
Today was a day of gentle exploration and delightful discoveries, far from the bustling tourist trails. I found myself drawn to the quieter corners of Granada, where history whispers and beauty unfolds in unexpected places. It was a day to savor the city's charm, one hidden garden and craft beer at a time.
My Saturday began, as many do, with a hearty breakfast. I joined my friends at Los Manueles Restaurante Catedral. The restaurant was already buzzing with activity, a mix of locals and tourists eager to start their day. I opted for the *tostadas*, a simple yet satisfying choice – slices of toasted bread topped with fresh tomatoes and olive oil. It was the perfect fuel for a day of exploration.
After breakfast, we set off towards the Albaicín, the old Arab quarter, to find El Maristán de Granada. Winding through the narrow, cobblestone streets is always an adventure in itself. The Albaicín feels like stepping back in time, with its whitewashed houses, hidden courtyards, and the scent of jasmine in the air. Finally, we arrived at El Maristán, a former hospital dating back to the 14th century. It was founded by Sultan Muhammad V as a charitable institution, a place to care for the sick and the mentally ill. I learned that *Maristán* comes from the Persian word *bimarestan*, meaning house of the sick.
The moment I stepped inside, I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me. The central courtyard, with its serene fountain and lush gardens, was a haven of peace. The architecture was stunning, a blend of Nasrid and Renaissance styles, with intricate tile work and delicate arches. I wandered through the arcaded walkways, imagining what life must have been like within these walls centuries ago. It was fascinating to learn that the Maristán was considered quite progressive for its time, with a focus on humane treatment and holistic care. They even used music therapy to soothe patients!

Explore the enchanting El Maristán de Granada, a historical monument in the Albaicín district, offering rich cultural experiences and stunning views.
Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found not in grand monuments, but in the quiet corners where history and humanity intertwine.
Leaving the Maristán, I felt a renewed appreciation for Granada's layered history. It's a city that wears its past with pride, and every corner seems to tell a story. Our next stop was Carmen de la Victoria, another hidden gem tucked away in the Albaicín. A *carmen*, I discovered, is a traditional house with a garden, typically found in Granada. Carmen de la Victoria is unique because it's owned by the University of Granada and serves as a guest residence for students and professors.
As we walked through the gardens, I was struck by the beauty and diversity of the landscape. There was a formal baroque garden with statues and fountains, an English-style garden with a tranquil pond, and even a Nasrid-style courtyard with intricate water features. The views of the Alhambra from the Carmen were simply breathtaking. I could have spent hours wandering through the gardens, soaking in the atmosphere and admiring the scenery.

Experience the serene beauty and historical significance of Carmen de la Victoria in Granada's Albaicín district.
After our dose of tranquility, it was time for lunch. We made our way to El Mercader, a restaurant recommended by several locals. It was a small, cozy place with a quirky decor – vinyl records as placemats and walls adorned with bottle caps. The atmosphere was relaxed and inviting, and the staff were incredibly friendly.
The menu at El Mercader was a fusion of Mediterranean and Arabic flavors, with a modern twist. I decided to try the *manitas de cerdo con langostinos* (pig's trotters with prawns), a dish that sounded both intriguing and delicious. It was a surprisingly delightful combination of textures and flavors, the richness of the pig's trotters balanced by the sweetness of the prawns. Hans-Peter, ever the traditionalist, opted for the duck breast, which he declared was cooked to perfection.

Discover El Mercader in Granada's Albaicín district for authentic Andalusian cuisine in a charming setting.
With our bellies full and our spirits high, we decided to explore Granada's craft beer scene. I had read about Capitán Amargo Craft Beer Bar, a place known for its wide selection of Spanish and international beers. It was a bit of a walk from the city center, but well worth the effort. The bar was long and narrow, with a lively atmosphere and a friendly crowd. Ismael, the bartender, was a true beer enthusiast, eager to share his knowledge and recommendations. I learned that the bar used to be called Colagallo, but changed its name a few years ago.
I sampled a few different beers, including a hoppy IPA from a local brewery and a refreshing Pilsner Urquell. Each beer was served in a proper Spiegelau glass, a detail that I appreciated. Capitán Amargo also offered a selection of tapas, and with each beer, we were treated to a small plate of olives, cheese, or cured meats. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Granada.

Experience the lively ambiance and diverse beverage selection at Capitán Amargo Craft Beer Bar in Granada, a must-visit for beer lovers and social seekers.
For dinner, we decided on Parole Granada, enticed by the promise of authentic Italian cuisine. The restaurant, located near Plaza de la Romanilla, had a modern and inviting ambiance. We started with the classic spaghetti carbonara and the neapolitan pizza, and were not disappointed. The service was attentive, and the atmosphere was perfect for a relaxed evening meal.

Experience authentic Italian flavors at Parole Granada – where every meal is a celebration of taste in the heart of Spain.
As I sit here now, reflecting on the day, I feel a sense of contentment. Granada has a way of captivating you with its beauty, its history, and its vibrant culture. Tomorrow, we are planning a trip to the Mirador de San Cristóbal and the Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho, and I am very much looking forward to it. I am also looking forward to visiting Artesanías Medina, a shop I have heard many good things about. Today was a reminder that the best travel experiences are often found in the unexpected moments, in the quiet corners, and in the warm hospitality of the people you meet along the way.
Tonight, I raise a glass to Granada, a city that continues to surprise and delight me at every turn. *Uz veselību!*
Join me and my friends as we explore Granada's rich history and culture, from the Alhambra to the Albaicín, in a 10-day Andalusian adventure.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Archivist at the Deutsches Historisches Museum
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Country: Germany
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Age: 53
Es esmu Elza Bērziņa-Schmidt, a Latvian native living in Berlin, and an archivist with a passion for history and travel. Through my blog, I share my travel experiences, combining historical insights with personal anecdotes. Join me as I explore the world, uncovering hidden gems and immersing myself in different cultures. I hope to inspire you to embark on your own adventures, whether it's exploring ancient ruins or discovering the charm of a local market.
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