Exploring the Ancient Wonders of Herculaneum

Day 1: A Day Immersed in History: Unearthing Herculaneum's Secrets

Step back in time with Elza and Hans-Peter as they explore the captivating ruins of Herculaneum, a city frozen in time by Vesuvius.

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Whispers of Vesuvius


Today marked the beginning of our journey into the past, a day where the echoes of Roman life resonated through the ancient stones of Herculaneum. It was more than just sightseeing; it was an immersive experience, a tangible connection to a civilization frozen in time. The morning sun cast long shadows as we stepped onto the cobblestone streets, ready to explore the remnants of a city tragically silenced by Vesuvius.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Bistrot Italia. Fuelled by strong Italian coffee and a selection of pastries, Hans-Peter and I set off, eager to explore the wonders that awaited us. The air was warm, carrying the scent of blooming jasmine and the distant murmur of the modern town blending seamlessly with the ancient ruins.

Archaeological Park of Herculaneum


Our first stop was the Archaeological Park of Herculaneum itself. As an archivist, I am naturally drawn to places where history is palpable, where the stories of the past whisper from every stone. Herculaneum did not disappoint. Walking through the remarkably well-preserved streets, I felt as though I had stepped back in time. The two-story houses, with their intricate mosaics and vibrant frescoes, offered an intimate glimpse into the lives of the people who once called this city home.


Explore the Archaeological Park of Herculaneum, where ancient Roman life comes alive amidst stunning ruins and rich history near Naples, Italy.
Explore the Archaeological Park of Herculaneum, where ancient Roman life comes alive amidst stunning ruins and rich history near Naples, Italy.

Hans-Peter, ever the observant restorer, was particularly fascinated by the state of preservation. He noted how the volcanic ash, while destructive, had also acted as a protective layer, preserving organic materials that would have otherwise decayed. We marveled at the wooden beams, the remnants of furniture, and even the carbonized food that offered a tangible link to the daily lives of Herculaneum's inhabitants. The site was less crowded than Pompeii, which allowed us to wander at our own pace, soaking in the atmosphere and imagining the bustling city as it once was.


We spent hours exploring the various houses, each with its own unique character and story. The House of the Wooden Partition was particularly striking, with its well-preserved wooden screen that once divided the atrium. The House of Neptune and Amphitrite captivated us with its stunning mosaic depicting the sea god and his consort. In every corner, there was something to discover, a detail that brought the past to life.


As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on the lives of those who perished in the eruption. It was a sobering reminder of the fragility of life and the power of nature. Yet, amidst the tragedy, there was also a sense of hope and resilience. The preservation of Herculaneum allowed their stories to be told, their memory to live on through the ages.



Lunch at Pizzeria Luna Caprese


By midday, our stomachs were beginning to rumble, so we decided to take a break for lunch. We found a charming little spot called Pizzeria Luna Caprese, tucked away on a quiet side street. The aroma of wood-fired pizza filled the air, and we eagerly ordered a classic Margherita and a Caprese salad to share. The pizza was simple yet delicious, the crust perfectly crisp and the tomatoes bursting with flavour. The Caprese salad, with its creamy mozzarella and fragrant basil, was a refreshing complement to the warm pizza. It was a perfect opportunity to relax, refuel, and soak in the atmosphere of the town.


Experience authentic Neapolitan pizza at Pizzeria Luna Caprese in Ercolano - where tradition meets flavor in every bite.
Experience authentic Neapolitan pizza at Pizzeria Luna Caprese in Ercolano - where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

Villa dei Papiri


After lunch, we ventured towards the Villa dei Papiri, an ancient Roman villa that once stood on the coastline. Although the villa itself is currently closed to the public, the allure of its history and the treasures it holds was too strong to resist getting as close as possible. The Villa of the Papyri, named for its unique library of papyrus scrolls, was once considered one of the most luxurious houses in Herculaneum and the Roman world. The villa was rediscovered in 1750, revealing a treasure trove of art, literature, and philosophy.


Discover the timeless beauty and rich history of Villa dei Papiri, an archaeological gem in Ercolano, Italy, showcasing ancient Roman life like never before.
Discover the timeless beauty and rich history of Villa dei Papiri, an archaeological gem in Ercolano, Italy, showcasing ancient Roman life like never before.

I was particularly excited about this visit, as the villa's library contained over 1,800 papyrus scrolls, the only surviving library from the Graeco-Roman world that exists in its entirety. These scrolls, now carbonized by the heat of the eruption, have provided invaluable insights into the intellectual life of the time. Although we couldn't enter the villa, we spent some time imagining its grandeur and the wealth of knowledge it once housed. I pictured Roman aristocrats strolling through its halls, engaging in philosophical discussions and admiring the exquisite works of art.


The Villa dei Papiri, possibly owned by Julius Caesar's father-in-law, Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus, was more than just a residence; it was a center for art, literature, and philosophy. The villa's architecture, an expanded version of the traditional Campanian villa suburbana, featured a columned portico, a peristyle with a swimming pool, and extensive gardens. It housed a collection of at least 80 sculptures of magnificent quality, many of which are now conserved in the Naples National Archaeological Museum.


Even though we could only admire it from afar, the Villa dei Papiri left a lasting impression on me. It was a reminder of the intellectual and artistic achievements of the Roman world and the importance of preserving our cultural heritage.



History is not merely a collection of dates and events; it is a tapestry woven from the lives, experiences, and aspirations of those who came before us.


MAV - Virtual Archaeological Museum


To further enrich our understanding of Herculaneum, we visited the MAV - Virtual Archaeological Museum. This modern museum uses cutting-edge technology to bring the ancient city to life. Through multi-sensory 3D reconstructions, interactive holographic displays, and virtual reality experiences, we were transported back to the fateful days before the eruption of Mount Vesuvius.


Explore the MAV - Virtual Archaeological Museum in Ercolano, where ancient history comes alive through innovative virtual experiences and interactive exhibits.
Explore the MAV - Virtual Archaeological Museum in Ercolano, where ancient history comes alive through innovative virtual experiences and interactive exhibits.

The museum masterfully combined archaeological findings with immersive digital experiences, creating an environment where we could practically feel the presence of ancient Romans walking beside us. The high-definition virtual reality experiences of notable buildings and homes were particularly impressive. We explored the House of the Relief of Telephus, the House of the Black Salon, and the Samnite House, each brought to life with incredible detail. It was a fascinating way to visualize the city as it once was, to see the vibrant colours of the frescoes and the intricate details of the architecture.


The interactive exhibits were also a hit, especially the digital recreations of archaeological artifacts with detailed historical context. I particularly enjoyed learning about the daily life of Roman citizens, their customs, and their beliefs. The museum also addressed the geological aspects, showcasing the intensity of the volcanic eruption and its devastating impact on the region.


The MAV was a perfect complement to our visit to the Archaeological Park. It provided a deeper understanding of the city's history and culture, making the ancient ruins even more meaningful. I highly recommend this museum to anyone visiting Herculaneum, especially those traveling with children. The interactive elements make ancient history accessible and exciting for younger visitors.



Shopping at Donadio Corals and Cameos


Before dinner, we decided to indulge in a little retail therapy. We stopped by Donadio Corals and Cameos, a local shop known for its exquisite handcrafted jewelry. As a lover of unique and meaningful souvenirs, I was immediately drawn to the intricate designs and the rich history behind each piece.


Explore the exquisite craftsmanship of coral and cameo jewelry at Donadio Corals and Cameos, a unique gem in Portici, Italy.
Explore the exquisite craftsmanship of coral and cameo jewelry at Donadio Corals and Cameos, a unique gem in Portici, Italy.

The shop was a treasure trove of beautiful creations, from delicate coral necklaces to intricately carved cameo brooches. The Donadio family has been in the business of crafting cameos and corals since 1885, and their passion for the art was evident in every piece. I learned that medallions, richly ornamented and samples of cameos carved on flow stone were found during archeological digs in the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, demonstrating that since the Roman Empire, objects representing God figures were already in fashion. A first sample of carving on stone, used in Mesopotamia as seals, dates back 4,000 years ago.


I was particularly fascinated by the cameos, each one a miniature work of art. The shopkeeper explained the process of carving the cameos, a delicate and time-consuming task that requires great skill and precision. I admired the intricate details of the designs, the delicate curves of the figures, and the subtle variations in colour. After much deliberation, I finally settled on a beautiful cameo pendant depicting a scene from Roman mythology. It was a perfect reminder of our visit to Herculaneum, a tangible connection to the ancient world.


Hans-Peter, not one for jewelry, found himself drawn to the coral pieces. He admired the vibrant colours and the organic shapes of the coral, and he eventually purchased a small coral sculpture as a memento of our trip. It was a perfect addition to his collection of curiosities, a reminder of the beauty and wonder of the natural world.



Dinner at Ristorante Vesum


As the sun began to set, casting a warm golden glow over Herculaneum, we made our way to Ristorante Vesum for dinner. This charming restaurant, located near the entrance to the Archaeological Park, offered a stunning view of Mount Vesuvius. We secured a table on the terrace and settled in for a delicious meal.


Discover authentic Italian flavors at Ristorante Vesum in Ercolano—where traditional cuisine meets warm hospitality.
Discover authentic Italian flavors at Ristorante Vesum in Ercolano—where traditional cuisine meets warm hospitality.

We started with a selection of local appetizers, including fried zucchini flowers, stuffed olives, and bruschetta with fresh tomatoes and basil. For our main courses, I ordered the seafood risotto, while Hans-Peter opted for the grilled swordfish. The risotto was creamy and flavourful, the seafood perfectly cooked and seasoned. The swordfish was equally delicious, tender and moist with a hint of lemon. We savoured every bite, accompanied by a bottle of crisp local white wine.


As we ate, we watched as the sky transformed into a canvas of vibrant colours, the setting sun painting the clouds in hues of orange, pink, and purple. Mount Vesuvius loomed in the distance, a silent reminder of the power of nature and the history that lay beneath our feet. It was a perfect ending to a perfect day, a moment of peace and tranquility amidst the ancient ruins.



Tomorrow, we plan to ascend Mount Vesuvius itself, to stand on the edge of the crater and gaze into the heart of the volcano that both destroyed and preserved Herculaneum. We'll also explore the surrounding Vesuvius National Park, immersing ourselves in the natural beauty of the region. I am already anticipating the breathtaking views and the opportunity to connect with the landscape that has shaped the history of this fascinating place. Perhaps, we will end the day with a drink at the Roof Garden Lounge Bar.



As I sit here now, writing in my notebook, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and awe. Today has been a journey through time, a connection to the past, and a reminder of the enduring power of the human spirit. I am eager to see what tomorrow brings, to continue exploring the wonders of Herculaneum and to share my experiences with you, my dear readers.

Go to day 2 Summiting Vesuvius: A Journey to the Heart of History
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Exploring the Ancient Wonders of Herculaneum

Discover the ancient marvels of Herculaneum with Elza and Hans-Peter, as they explore Roman history amidst Italy's captivating landscapes.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Elza Bērziņa-Schmidt
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Archivist at the Deutsches Historisches Museum
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 53

Es esmu Elza Bērziņa-Schmidt, a Latvian native living in Berlin, and an archivist with a passion for history and travel. Through my blog, I share my travel experiences, combining historical insights with personal anecdotes. Join me as I explore the world, uncovering hidden gems and immersing myself in different cultures. I hope to inspire you to embark on your own adventures, whether it's exploring ancient ruins or discovering the charm of a local market.

Interests:
  • History
  • Genealogy
  • Baltic Culture
  • Museums
  • Photography
More about Elza Bērziņa-Schmidt

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