Family Adventure in the Heart of Þórsmörk, Iceland

Skógafoss and Stories of Old

Today was a day of embracing Iceland’s raw beauty and rich history. Leaving behind the cozy familiarity of our campsite near Þórsmörk, we ventured out to explore the wonders that the southern coast had to offer. It’s amazing how quickly the landscape transforms here, from the rugged highlands to the lush, green lowlands dotted with charming villages. With Maximilian at the wheel and Clara excitedly pointing out every sheep we passed, I knew we were in for a day filled with unforgettable moments.

Our first stop was a hearty breakfast at Heima Bistro in Skógar. I opted for a simple but satisfying skyr with fresh berries, while Maximilian devoured a plate of fish and chips. Clara, of course, went for the pancakes. It was a great way to fuel up for the adventures ahead. It's funny, even though I grew up here, experiencing these places with my family makes me see them in a completely new light. I find myself noticing details I never did before, like the way the morning light catches the mist rising from the fields, or the unique architecture of each farmhouse we pass.

With our bellies full, we headed towards the majestic Skógafoss waterfall. As we approached, the ground began to tremble slightly, a subtle reminder of the immense power of nature. The waterfall is easily accessible from the Ring Road, making it a popular stop for travelers. I could already see the mist rising in the distance, a signal of the natural beauty that awaited us. The weather in Skógar in October can be unpredictable, with average highs around 6°C and lows around 2°C, and a high chance of rain. We bundled up in our warmest layers, ready for whatever the day might bring. Thank goodness I remembered to pack our Icelandic sweaters, the Lopapeysa, they always keep us warm and cozy!

Standing before Skógafoss was breathtaking. The water plunged down from a height of 60 meters with such force that the ground vibrated beneath our feet. The mist created a constant rainbow, arching across the sky – a truly magical sight. Clara was mesmerized, trying to catch the colors with her tiny hands. Maximilian, ever the photographer, was in his element, snapping photos from every angle. I remember visiting Skógafoss as a child, feeling dwarfed by its grandeur. It’s a feeling that never really fades, no matter how many times I see it.


Discover the enchanting beauty of Skógafoss, one of Iceland's most iconic waterfalls, where nature's power meets stunning landscapes.

The roar of Skógafoss is a constant reminder of nature's power, a force that both humbles and inspires.

We decided to climb the steps to the top of the waterfall. All 370 of them! The climb was a bit challenging, especially with Clara on my back for part of the way, but the view from the top was well worth the effort. From there, we could see the coastline stretching out towards the horizon, the black sand beaches contrasting with the white waves crashing against the shore. I pointed out to Clara where the coastline used to be, before it receded, leaving behind the cliffs from which Skógafoss now falls.

As we descended, the sun peeked through the clouds, casting a golden light on the landscape. It was the perfect moment to capture a family photo, a memory to cherish forever. Of course, no visit to Skógafoss is complete without a stop at the Skogafoss Bistro Bar, which is part of Hotel Skógafoss, for a quick drink. We warmed up with some hot chocolate and a traditional Icelandic pastry, enjoying the cozy atmosphere and the stunning views of the waterfall. The bistro offers a blend of Icelandic and international dishes and a fantastic view of the waterfall.

Next on our itinerary was the Skógar Museum. Founded by Þórður Tómasson, the museum is a treasure trove of Icelandic history and culture. It’s divided into three main sections: the Folk Museum, the Open-Air Museum, and the Technical Museum, each offering a unique glimpse into Iceland's past. We spent hours wandering through the exhibits, marveling at the artifacts and learning about the lives of Icelanders throughout the centuries.


Explore Iceland's heritage at Skógar Museum, where captivating history meets stunning landscapes in a unique cultural experience.
The Folk Museum was particularly fascinating, with its collection of household items, furniture, and handicrafts. I was drawn to the traditional costumes, imagining the women who wore them, their lives filled with hard work and resilience. Clara was captivated by the natural history section, especially the stuffed birds and the whale skeleton. It reminded me of visiting my grandmother in Ísafjörður, where she would tell me stories of the old ways of life, of fishing and farming and surviving the harsh Icelandic winters. She would have loved this museum.

The Open-Air Museum was like stepping back in time. We explored restored turf houses, wooden houses, a schoolhouse, and a church, each one offering a glimpse into a different era of Icelandic architecture. Clara loved running through the turf houses, pretending to be a Viking princess. It was a wonderful way for her to connect with her Icelandic heritage. I remember spending summers in turf houses like these with my cousins, playing hide-and-seek among the cozy rooms and imagining what life was like for our ancestors. There's something so grounding about being in these spaces, a sense of connection to the past that I find deeply comforting.

The Technical Museum showcased the development of transport, communication, and technology in Iceland throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. It was amazing to see how much life in Iceland had changed in such a short period of time. Maximilian, being a software engineer, was particularly interested in the exhibits on early computers and telecommunications. He explained to Clara how these inventions had transformed the world, making it smaller and more connected.

After immersing ourselves in history, we were ready for lunch. We headed to Ingólfsskáli Viking Restaurant, eager to experience a taste of Iceland's Viking heritage. The restaurant is designed like a Viking longhouse, with wooden carvings, pelts, shields, and swords adorning the walls. The atmosphere was truly unique, transporting us back to the golden age of the Vikings. It really felt like stepping into a Game of Thrones set!


Discover authentic Viking cuisine at Ingólfsskáli Viking Restaurant in Ölfus – where tradition meets flavor in an immersive dining experience.
The menu at Ingólfsskáli is inspired by Viking cuisine, with a modern twist. We started with the creamy carrot soup, which was delicious and warming. For our main courses, Maximilian chose the lamb fillet, while I opted for the Icelandic charcuterie plate. Clara, of course, wanted the chicken nuggets. The food was excellent, and the presentation was beautiful. I especially enjoyed the charcuterie plate, which featured a selection of Icelandic cheeses, smoked meats, and fish. It was a true taste of Iceland. Maximilian especially enjoyed the lamb fillet, which has been the house dish for over 35 years. He said it was cooked to perfection and melted in his mouth.

As we ate, we listened to the traditional Viking music playing in the background, imagining what it must have been like to live in Iceland during the Viking era. It’s amazing how the Ingólfsskáli family hunts and gathers their own meats and other ingredients that make up their menu. The commitment to serving up dishes with the best high quality local and fresh ingredients the region has to offer is admirable. I couldn't help but feel a sense of pride in my Icelandic heritage. It's experiences like these that make me appreciate the unique culture and history of my homeland.

After our Viking feast, we decided to try our hand at some medieval activities. Clara was too young for axe throwing, so we opted for archery. It was a lot of fun, even though I wasn't very good at it. Maximilian, on the other hand, was a natural, hitting the bullseye several times. Clara loved cheering us on, clapping her hands and shouting encouragement. It was a perfect way to end our visit to Ingólfsskáli.

“We do not remember days, we remember moments.” - Cesare Pavese

As we drove back towards Þórsmörk, the sun began to set, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. We were all tired but happy, our hearts full of memories from a day of Icelandic wonders. Clara fell asleep in the back seat, clutching her stuffed puffin. Maximilian and I held hands, grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with our daughter. It's days like these that make me realize how lucky I am to be Icelandic, to be able to share the beauty and culture of my homeland with my family.

Tomorrow, we'll be exploring Þórsmörk itself, hiking through its stunning landscapes and discovering its hidden gems. I’m particularly excited to visit the Básar Hut & campsite and the Thorsmork Skagfjörðsskáli shop [places mentioned in tomorrow's itinerary]. I can’t wait to share those adventures with you all. Until then, takk fyrir (thank you) for joining us on this journey!