Family Adventure in the Heart of Siena

A Day in the Life of Siena

Today was a whirlwind of history, art, and delicious food, all wrapped up in the stunning medieval atmosphere of Siena. From scaling the heights of Torre del Mangia to delving into the artistic treasures of Palazzo Pubblico and Santa Maria della Scala, every moment felt like stepping back in time. And of course, no day in Italy is complete without indulging in the local cuisine, which we did with gusto!


Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Zest Ristorante & Wine Bar. The reviews I had read online were spot on; it was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring. The aroma of freshly baked pastries and strong Italian coffee filled the air as we settled into our cozy corner. I opted for a simple but satisfying cornetto (an Italian croissant) and a cappuccino, while Jean-Pierre chose a selection of local cheeses and cured meats. Sophie, of course, went straight for the Nutella-filled pastry. It’s amazing how even the simplest breakfast in Italy feels special, a testament to the quality of the ingredients and the passion for food that permeates every aspect of Italian life.


With our stomachs full and our spirits high, we set off to conquer the Palazzo Pubblico, Siena's stunning town hall. Located in the Piazza del Campo, the Palazzo Pubblico is not only an architectural masterpiece but also houses the Museo Civico, home to some of Siena's most important artworks.

The beauty of Siena lies not just in its monuments, but in the way history and culture are woven into the fabric of everyday life.

As we entered the Palazzo, I was immediately struck by the grandeur of the building. The soaring ceilings, intricate frescoes, and opulent decorations transported me back to the height of the Sienese Republic. We spent hours wandering through the various halls, admiring masterpieces by Simone Martini, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, and other Sienese masters.


One of the highlights was undoubtedly Lorenzetti's frescoes on the Allegory of Good and Bad Government. These remarkable paintings, commissioned in the 14th century, offer a fascinating insight into the political and social ideals of the time. The level of detail is incredible, and the message about the importance of justice, peace, and good governance is as relevant today as it was centuries ago. Sophie, surprisingly, was captivated by the vibrant colors and the depictions of everyday life in medieval Siena. I think it's wonderful how art can transcend time and capture the imagination of even the youngest minds.


After immersing ourselves in the art and history of the Palazzo Pubblico, it was time to tackle the Torre del Mangia. This iconic tower, which soars 88 meters (288 feet) above the Piazza del Campo, is one of the tallest medieval towers in Italy and offers unparalleled views of Siena and the surrounding countryside. The name *Torre del Mangia* translates to Tower of the Eater, a rather curious name until you hear the story behind it. The first guardian of the bell tower was named Giovanni di Balduccio, and he was a man given to large appetites, specifically for food. Giovanni was said to spend everything he made on satisfying his endless need to nosh, thus earning him the nickname *mangiaguadagni*, or “eats his earnings”. His place of employment became known as the Tower of the Eater.


The climb to the top is not for the faint of heart, as it involves ascending over 400 steps. The stairwell is narrow and winding, and there are a few tight squeezes along the way. But as I climbed higher and higher, the views became increasingly breathtaking. When we finally reached the top, panting and slightly breathless, we were rewarded with a panorama that stretched as far as the eye could see. The terracotta rooftops of Siena, the rolling hills of Tuscany, and the distant Apennine Mountains all combined to create a scene of unforgettable beauty. It was worth every single step.


Sophie, who had been complaining about the climb just moments before, was suddenly speechless, her eyes wide with wonder. Jean-Pierre, ever the pragmatist, pointed out landmarks and recounted historical facts. As I stood there, soaking in the view and sharing the moment with my family, I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience such incredible places.


After descending from the Torre del Mangia, we were ready for a leisurely lunch. We chose Osteria Enoteca Sotto Le Fonti, a charming restaurant located near the Fontebranda, Siena's historic fountain. This osteria is known for its authentic Tuscan cuisine, prepared with locally sourced ingredients. We started with a selection of *crostini toscani*, topped with various pates and spreads, followed by homemade pasta with wild boar ragu. The flavors were rich and robust, a true celebration of Tuscan culinary traditions. I savored every bite, knowing that these were the kind of meals that create lasting memories.


In the afternoon, we visited Santa Maria della Scala, one of the oldest and largest hospitals in Europe. Founded in the 9th century, this remarkable institution served as a hospital, orphanage, and pilgrim's hospice for centuries. Today, it has been transformed into a museum complex, showcasing the history of the hospital and its role in Sienese society. As we wandered through the vast halls and chapels, I was struck by the scale and complexity of the building. The frescoes, sculptures, and other artworks that adorned the walls told stories of compassion, healing, and faith.


One of the most moving exhibits was the *Sala del Pellegrinaio*, a vast hall decorated with frescoes depicting the daily life of the hospital. These paintings offered a glimpse into the lives of the patients, doctors, and caregivers who lived and worked within these walls. It was a powerful reminder of the importance of human connection and the enduring power of hope. Sophie was particularly fascinated by the stories of the children who had been cared for at the hospital, and she asked many questions about their lives and experiences.


Before dinner, Jean-Pierre and I managed to sneak away for a quick aperitivo at Enoteca Sotto al Duomo. Located, as the name suggests, near the Duomo, this wine bar is a haven for wine lovers. With a selection of over 10,000 wines, it’s a great place to sample some of the region’s best offerings. We enjoyed a glass of Chianti Classico, accompanied by some local cheeses and cured meats. It was the perfect way to unwind after a busy day of sightseeing.


For dinner, we had made reservations at Oro Di Siena, a restaurant that had been highly recommended by several locals. This intimate restaurant, with its elegant décor and attentive service, proved to be the perfect setting for a memorable meal. The Luppoli family has been managing this restaurant gem since 2003. We started with the award-winning Pecorino cheese, served with freshly baked sourdough bread. For our main courses, Jean-Pierre chose the Tuscan pork, while I opted for the homemade pappardelle with rabbit. The dishes were prepared with fresh, locally sourced vegetables and represented some of the best natural flavors of the region.


Sophie, who can be a picky eater, surprised us by devouring a plate of lasagna. The meal was a triumph, a fitting end to a day filled with culinary delights. As we savored our last bites, we reflected on the incredible experiences we had shared throughout the day. Siena had captivated us with its beauty, history, and culture, and we knew that we would carry these memories with us long after we had left.


As I write this, I can hear the sounds of the city drifting through our hotel window. The gentle murmur of conversations, the distant chiming of church bells, and the occasional burst of laughter all combine to create a symphony of Sienese life. I feel grateful for the opportunity to experience this magical place with my family, and I look forward to discovering more of its hidden treasures in the days to come.


Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, Facciatone, and Battistero di San Giovanni Battista. I'm also hoping to do some shopping at Antica Drogheria Manganelli 1879. Good night from Siena!