Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

First Impressions: Naoshima's Artistic Embrace

The ferry ride itself felt like crossing a threshold into another world. Leaving the mainland behind, I could feel the anticipation building for what Naoshima, this 'Art Island,' had in store. My first day was ambitious, diving headfirst into two of the island's most renowned museums: Benesse House Museum and the Chichu Art Museum. Add to that a sampling of local cuisine, and it was a day designed to overload the senses in the best possible way. I was eager to see how this blend of art, architecture, and nature would unfold.

Stepping onto Naoshima, I was immediately struck by the tranquility of the island. It's February, so the air is crisp, carrying a hint of the sea. The winter light casts long shadows, adding depth to the already dramatic landscape. I made my way to the Benesse House Museum first, eager to experience the fusion of art and accommodation that makes it so unique. Architect Tadao Ando's design is immediately apparent – clean lines, concrete, and an almost seamless integration with the natural surroundings. It's the kind of architecture that both commands attention and humbly steps back to let the art speak.

The Benesse House Museum is more than just a building; it's an experience. The art isn't confined to sterile galleries; it spills out onto the lawns, the beaches, and even into the guest rooms. I wandered through the museum, encountering works by artists from around the world, each piece seemingly in conversation with its surroundings. Yayoi Kusama's yellow pumpkin sits proudly on the shore, a cheerful beacon against the backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea. I was also captivated by the works of Niki de Saint Phalle.

Art doesn't just reflect life, it anticipates it, guides it, and sometimes, heals it.

One of the most remarkable aspects of Benesse House is how it encourages you to slow down and truly engage with the art. As I understand it, just recently, on February 6, 2025, the museum reopened with a new exhibition change showcasing representative works from its European and American contemporary art collections. I found myself lingering in front of pieces, contemplating their meaning, and simply enjoying their presence. It's a far cry from the rushed experience I often have in larger, more crowded museums. The fact that overnight guests have 24-hour access to the museum is a stroke of genius. Imagine having these masterpieces all to yourself in the quiet hours of the night!

After a morning of art exploration, my stomach started to rumble. It was time for lunch at APRON CAFE. Tucked away in Honmura, this cafe is a gem. It has a homely vibe, and I felt like I was stepping into an old friend's home. What's special is that the menu is crafted by a certified nutritionist, using locally sourced ingredients from the Setouchi region. I opted for the seasonal set lunch, a vibrant plate of local Spanish mackerel with a Spanish-style omelette and a medley of fresh vegetables. It was delicious and nourishing.

With renewed energy, I headed to my next destination: the Chichu Art Museum. Designed, like Benesse House, by Tadao Ando, Chichu takes a different approach to integrating art and nature. As the name suggests, the museum is built almost entirely underground, a deliberate choice to minimize its impact on the landscape. The effect is both disorienting and awe-inspiring. Descending into the earth, you enter a world where natural light is carefully controlled, illuminating the art in unexpected ways.

The Chichu Art Museum houses a small but significant collection of works, including Claude Monet's *Water Lilies*. Stepping into the Monet room is like entering a sacred space. Bathed in soft, natural light, the large-scale paintings seem to float on the walls. The way the light shifts throughout the day subtly alters the appearance of the paintings, creating a dynamic and immersive experience. It's a testament to Monet's genius and Ando's architectural vision.

James Turrell's installations at Chichu are equally captivating. Turrell uses light as his primary medium, creating spaces that challenge your perception and invite you to question the nature of reality. His work is both mesmerizing and deeply unsettling, forcing you to confront the limits of your senses. I also got to experience Walter De Maria's installation, which was quite a unique experience.

Before leaving Benesse House Museum, I popped into the Benesse House Shop. I am always on the lookout for unique souvenirs. I ended up buying a small print of one of the works I had seen in the museum, a tangible reminder of my experience.

Dinner was at Issen, the Japanese restaurant located within the Benesse House Museum. Given its location, I had high expectations, and I wasn't disappointed. The restaurant specializes in Kaiseki cuisine, a traditional Japanese multi-course meal. Each dish was a work of art in itself, showcasing the fresh, seasonal ingredients of the Setouchi region. I savored every bite, enjoying the interplay of flavors and textures.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the incredible journey I had just undertaken. Naoshima is more than just an island; it's a sanctuary for art, a place where creativity and nature intertwine in profound ways. It's also a place where one can contemplate the relationship between people and nature. The architecture is seamlessly blended with the landscape. I am already looking forward to tomorrow, where I plan to explore the Art House Project: Minamidera and the Lee Ufan Museum. I might even treat myself to a drink at Bar SARU in the evening. For now, though, I'm content to let the impressions of the day settle in.

Tomorrow promises more artistic adventures, with plans to explore the Art House Project: Minamidera and the Lee Ufan Museum. I'm also considering ending the day with a relaxing drink at Bar SARU, the island's only late-night spot, to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences.

Before heading back to My Lodge Naoshima, I grabbed a quick bite at Cin.na.mon, known for its seafood curry. It was the perfect way to end the day, a comforting and flavorful meal that left me feeling satisfied and ready for a good night's sleep. I'm looking forward to more culinary adventures during my stay. I hear Café Ippo is great for breakfast.

Naoshima has already exceeded my expectations, and I can't wait to see what else it has in store. It's a place that nourishes the soul, challenges the mind, and reminds you of the beauty that can be found in the unexpected. As someone passionate about sustainable living, I appreciate Naoshima's commitment to preserving its natural environment while fostering a vibrant artistic community. It's a model for how art and sustainability can coexist harmoniously.

I was disappointed to realize I had forgotten my power adapter and an extra camera battery. I will need to purchase these items soon. However, the experiences I had today far outweighed any inconveniences. I am so grateful to be on this island!


Discover the enchanting Benesse House Museum on Naoshima Island, where contemporary art meets stunning natural beauty in a harmonious setting.


Explore the Chichu Art Museum on Naoshima Island, where modern art meets nature in a breathtaking architectural masterpiece.


Experience culinary delights amidst the artistic beauty of Naoshima at APRON CAFE - where every meal tells a story.


Explore the artistic offerings of Benesse House Shop in Naoshima, a unique souvenir store celebrating local art and craftsmanship with exclusive pieces.


Discover exquisite Japanese cuisine at Issen on Naoshima Island—where art meets culinary excellence in every bite.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors in an artistic setting at Cin.na.mon, Naoshima's charming café and restaurant.