Exploring the Mystical Snæfellsnes Peninsula with Friends

Whispers of the Coast

Today was a day of dramatic coastlines, ancient legends, and the raw, untamed beauty that defines Iceland. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula continued to captivate me, weaving its magic into every moment. I felt a profound connection to the land, as if the very stones were whispering stories of old. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel – to immerse myself in the heart of a place, to feel its pulse, and to carry its essence within me.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Kaffi 59 in Grundarfjörður. It was a cute restaurant that looked like a house converted into a restaurant! The waitress was friendly, and I ordered the bacon cheeseburger with fries while my friends enjoyed their meals. It was just the fuel we needed to start our day of exploration.

The first stop was Arnarstapi, a charming village known for its dramatic cliffs and basalt columns. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of the sea. It felt invigorating, a welcome change from the city air of Berlin. Maximilian would have loved this; he always appreciates the simple beauty of nature. I made a mental note to bring him and Astrid here someday. The dramatic cliffs were home to diverse bird species. Although I had forgotten my binoculars, I could still observe puffins and kittiwakes in their natural habitat.

As we approached the Arnarstapi Cliff Viewpoint, the landscape opened up before us in a breathtaking panorama. The basalt columns stood like ancient sentinels, guarding the coastline against the relentless waves of the Atlantic. The sea crashed against the rocks, sending plumes of white foam into the air. I could have stayed there for hours, simply watching the dance of water and stone.


Discover the stunning beauty of Arnarstapi Cliff Viewpoint, where dramatic cliffs meet the roaring Atlantic and nature reveals its breathtaking splendor.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest of moments, in the quiet contemplation of nature's grandeur.

From the cliff viewpoint, we walked towards the iconic Bárður Snæfellsás Statue. The sculpture, created by Ragnar Kjartansson, loomed against the sky, a powerful representation of the half-giant, half-human protector of the peninsula. Bárður's story is deeply woven into the fabric of Snæfellsnes, his saga a blend of pagan traditions and Christian influences. Standing before the statue, I felt a connection to the ancient myths and legends of Iceland. The statue stands 6 meters tall and depicts Bárður holding a large rock, which symbolizes his connection to the earth and his strength.


Discover the Bárður Snæfellsás Statue in Arnarstapi - a monumental tribute to Icelandic folklore surrounded by stunning coastal landscapes.

I remembered reading about Bárður in the Bárðar Saga Snæfellsáss. According to the saga, Bárður was not raised by his parents but by a giant named Dofri in Norway. He married one of Dofri's daughters and had three daughters with her. Bárður became concerned about the despotic rule of Harald “fairhair," the first King of all of Norway. In response, he leaves for Iceland, landing at Djúpalón in Snæfellsnes. It was fascinating to see how these ancient tales were still so present in the landscape, shaping the identity of the region.

Lunch was at the Arnarstapi Center and Snjófell Restaurant, a cozy spot with stunning views of Mount Stapafell. I opted for the fish and chips, a classic Icelandic dish, while my friends tried the lamb soup and the mushroom soup. The atmosphere was welcoming, the staff friendly, and the food hearty and satisfying. It was the perfect place to refuel after our coastal explorations.


Experience fresh seafood and traditional Icelandic cuisine with breathtaking ocean views at Arnarstapi Center's Snjófell Restaurant.

Our final stop of the day was Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a hidden gem nestled within the Botnsfjall mountain. The gorge is named after the Icelandic Folklore stories of the Bárðar saga. The small hike to the gorge was very easy. As we approached the entrance, I could feel the temperature drop, the air growing cooler and damper. The narrow opening beckoned us into the heart of the mountain. I made sure I had my waterproof hiking boots on, as I knew there would be a small creek inside.


Discover the breathtaking Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, an iconic Icelandic attraction featuring stunning landscapes, rich folklore, and unbeatable hiking trails.

Inside, the gorge was a world of shadows and echoes. Water trickled down the moss-covered walls, creating a sense of primeval mystery. The path grew narrower, forcing us to wade through the icy stream. The experience was both exhilarating and humbling, a reminder of the power and beauty of nature's forces. I felt like I was exploring an empty cave! We went a bit further inside the gorge and it felt like we were exploring an empty cave. In front of us, the walls kept getting closer to each other and if we looked up, we could see the blue sky in between the rocks. After a few meters, we had to climb a small waterfall (there was a rope to help us up). It didn't look very difficult but if we continued, we were going to get wet and we were not feeling like it.

According to the sagas, Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge is more than just a geological wonder. It's a colossal crevasse etched into the eastern side of the Botnsfjall mountain. This hidden gem, nestled amidst glorious cliffs near the hamlet of Arnarstapi, has become a must-see for travelers venturing through the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The path from the parking lot to the gorge is approximately 0.6 miles (~one kilometer) round trip. However, the path has an elevation change of 275 feet (~84 meters), which adds to the difficulty of the trail. An average hiker can complete the trail within 10 to 20 minutes round trip.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Stykkishólmur for dinner. I was excited to try Sjávarpakkhúsið, a restaurant known for its fresh seafood and charming atmosphere. The restaurant was small with fishermen pictures hanging on the walls and looked so cozy with low lights and candles, just the perfect atmosphere. I started by ordering appetizers and we chose cod cheeks with rhubarb barbeque and smoked mayo and scallop ceviche with ponzu dulce and pickled onions. I can't really pick a favourite from these two appetizers because they were both sooo good but the scallop ceviche was perfection! Just wow! All those flavours and textures! Absolutely amazing! For the main course we had wolfish with celeriac puree with a beautiful and marvelous sauce made with horseradish cream and kombu caviar that Sara poured beautifully at the table. We also ordered lemon sole with chanterelles, brown butter and almonds. The wolfish was delicious! The restaurant prides itself in offering expertly made and locally sourced seasonal seafood. They work with local fishermen to ensure that they are always using the best quality local ingredients, whilst also promoting sustainability.


Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Sjávarpakkhúsið in Stykkishólmur - where local seafood meets traditional flavors.

After dinner, we decided to check out Hvanneyri Pub, a local spot known for its lively atmosphere. Hvanneyri Pub is a quintessential grill restaurant that embodies the spirit of Icelandic hospitality. The rustic decor, combined with a cozy ambiance, makes it an ideal spot for both relaxation and socializing. We enjoyed a few drinks, soaking in the local vibe and sharing stories from our day's adventures. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with wonder and discovery.


Discover the heart of Icelandic flavors at Hvanneyri Pub, where grilled delicacies meet a homey atmosphere.

Tomorrow, we're heading to Kirkjufell Mountain and Kirkjufellsfossar, two of the most iconic landmarks on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. I've seen countless photos of these stunning locations, and I can't wait to experience them in person. We'll also be visiting the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum, which promises to be a unique and unforgettable experience. I'm particularly excited about the prospect of visiting Kirkjufell knitting shop, as I'm always on the lookout for new patterns and inspiration for my knitting projects. I might even find some traditional Norwegian patterns to incorporate into my designs!

As I write this, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula has a way of seeping into your soul, leaving you with a deep appreciation for the beauty and power of nature. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings, but for now, I'll drift off to sleep, dreaming of basalt columns, ancient legends, and the endless expanse of the Icelandic coast.