Exploring the Untouched Wilderness of Hornstrandir with Friends

A Taste of the Westfjords
Today was a day of contrasts, blending the raw, untamed beauty of Hornstrandir with the comforting warmth of Icelandic hospitality. It's amazing how a remote place can offer such a rich tapestry of experiences, from challenging hikes to delightful culinary discoveries. Join me as I recount our adventures, filled with stunning vistas and unforgettable flavors.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Hópið. The cozy atmosphere and the smell of freshly baked bread were incredibly inviting after a chilly night in our tent. I opted for the traditional skyr with berries and a strong cup of coffee, which provided the perfect fuel for the day's adventures. Maximilian, ever the enthusiast for local delicacies, tried the smoked salmon and declared it the best he’d ever tasted. Astrid, of course, was happy with her simple toast and jam, her little face smeared with sweetness.


Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Hópið in Tálknafjörður, where fresh ingredients meet warm hospitality.
Fueled up, we set off to explore more of Hornstrandir. The landscape here is truly otherworldly. Rugged cliffs plunge into the icy sea, and the vast expanses of green tundra stretch as far as the eye can see. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of wildflowers and the distant roar of the ocean. We hiked along the coastline, marveling at the dramatic scenery and the sheer remoteness of it all. It felt like we were at the edge of the world, far removed from the hustle and bustle of Berlin.

As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on how different this was from my usual life. Back in Berlin, I'm surrounded by concrete and constant noise, but here, it was just us and nature. It's moments like these that remind me why I love to travel – to escape the ordinary and reconnect with the wild. I made sure to take lots of photos, hoping to capture even a fraction of the beauty that surrounded us. It is impossible to truly capture it, though.

Our hike led us to some truly stunning viewpoints. We paused to watch the waves crashing against the rocks, the spray creating rainbows in the afternoon sun. We even spotted a few seals basking on the shore, their sleek bodies glistening in the light. Astrid was particularly thrilled, pointing and chattering excitedly as they lazily watched us.

As lunchtime approached, we made our way to Faktorshus in Haestikaupstadur. This charming café, housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century building, offered a welcome respite from the elements. The interior was cozy and inviting, with wooden beams and vintage décor that transported us back in time. I learned that Faktorshús was built in 1848 and served as the home for the town's shop manager, making it one of the oldest houses in Djúpivogur. It has been diligently restored, showcasing the original wood-paneled appearance.


Savor authentic Icelandic flavors at Faktorshus in Ísafjörður – where local ingredients meet culinary creativity.
We ordered some hearty sandwiches and steaming bowls of soup, which we devoured with gusto. The bread was crusty and flavorful, and the soup was rich and warming – perfect for a chilly September day. I savored every bite, feeling grateful for the simple pleasures of good food and good company. Maximilian and I shared stories about our childhoods in Norway and Germany, while Astrid drew pictures on a napkin, completely absorbed in her own little world.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest moments, shared in the most extraordinary places.

After lunch, we continued our exploration of the area, venturing further into the wilderness. We followed a winding trail that led us through fields of wildflowers and past cascading waterfalls. The colors of the landscape were breathtaking – vibrant greens, earthy browns, and the deep blues of the sky and sea. I felt a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me, a feeling that's hard to come by in the chaos of everyday life.

In the late afternoon, we decided to treat ourselves to a drink at Jötunn restaurant. It wasn't just a regular bar; it was an experience. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, and we quickly struck up conversations with some locals who were eager to share their stories and recommendations. I enjoyed a local beer, while Maximilian opted for a glass of Brennivín, Iceland's signature spirit. We toasted to our adventure and to the beauty of Hornstrandir. Astrid enjoyed a warm cup of cocoa, feeling very grown-up. I read online that Jötunn restaurant is known for its sushi and prawns, along with its friendly staff and cozy atmosphere.


Discover the essence of Icelandic cuisine at Jötunn Restaurant, where local ingredients and exquisite flavors create unforgettable dishes.
As evening approached, we made our way to Tjöruhúsið for dinner. This renowned seafood restaurant, nestled in an old fish warehouse, had been highly recommended by several people we met along the way. The restaurant is located in a 1781 fish warehouse, adding to its unforgettable ambiance. The interior was rustic and charming, with long wooden tables and benches that encouraged a sense of community.


Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.
The menu at Tjöruhúsið is a celebration of Icelandic seafood. There's no set menu; instead, they serve whatever the local fishermen have caught that day. We started with a creamy fish soup, which was bursting with flavor and incredibly comforting. For the main course, we were treated to a variety of freshly caught fish, prepared in different ways – grilled, fried, and baked. Each dish was a revelation, showcasing the incredible quality and freshness of the ingredients. I'm not usually a big fan of fish, but this meal changed my mind indefinitely.

The chef even told us a story about when Heston Blumenthal, chef of The Fat Duck, visited the restaurant and fried up his catch of the day. I read online that the fish soup is a must-try, and the buffet offers a variety of fresh fish dishes. Some reviewers mentioned that the dishes can be a bit salty or oily, but the freshness and quality of the seafood make up for it. According to one review, the price for dinner is around 9,000 ISK per person.

We feasted on langoustine, halibut, salmon, salt cod, cod cheeks, wolffish, and more. Each dish was perfectly cooked and seasoned, with no fishy flavor. It was truly one of the best seafood meals I've ever had. I found myself wishing I could eat even more because the food was so delicious.

As we savored our meal, we chatted with our fellow diners, sharing stories and laughter. It was a truly communal experience, one that I'll cherish for a long time. The atmosphere was cozy and welcoming, and the staff were incredibly friendly and attentive. It felt like we were part of a big, happy family, gathered around a table to celebrate the bounty of the sea.

After dinner, we stepped outside to take in the beauty of the night. The sky was clear, and the stars were shining brightly. We even caught a glimpse of the Northern Lights dancing across the horizon – a magical end to a perfect day. As we walked back to our campsite, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for this incredible journey and for the opportunity to experience the wild beauty of Hornstrandir with my loved ones.

As I settled into my sleeping bag, I couldn't help but think about tomorrow, our last day in this amazing place. We plan to have breakfast at Jötunn restaurant and visit The Fjord Hub for some last-minute souvenirs before heading back to Reykjavik. I'm already feeling a pang of sadness at the thought of leaving, but I know that the memories we've made here will stay with us forever. I am also very glad that I packed enough warm clothes, as September in Iceland can be quite cold. Temperatures can drop to 0°C to 5°C (32°F to 41°F), and storms and heavy rains are more common. I made sure to bring my rainproof/windproof jacket, fleece jacket, rain pants, sturdy walking shoes, gloves, hat, and scarf.

Good night from Hornstrandir, and stay tuned for my final reflections on this unforgettable adventure.