Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Peneda-Gerês National Park

Day 8: Whispers of Wolves and Waterside Bliss in Gerês

Explore the mysteries of Fafião's wolf traps and unwind at the serene Praia da Quinta da Portelada. A day of history and relaxation.

Post Image

Echoes of the Past, Reflections on the Present


Today was a day of contrasts, a journey from the stark reminders of humanity's complex relationship with nature to the soothing embrace of Gerês's tranquil waters. It's funny how travel can throw these juxtapositions at you, making you reflect on where we've been and where we're going.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Restaurante Pedra Bela Gerês. Fuelled up for the day, Lena and I set off towards Fafião, a village known for its ancient wolf traps. The drive itself was stunning, the kind where you have to resist stopping every five minutes to capture another breathtaking view. I must admit, I nearly forgot my raincoat again, but Lena was there to remind me. I really need to make a better mental note of our packing list.

The Fojo do Lobo de Fafião was an eerie yet fascinating place. These stone structures, built centuries ago, served as traps for Iberian wolves, a testament to the struggles between the local communities and the wild. Standing there, I tried to imagine the scene: the villagers, the chase, the fear, and the respect for these magnificent creatures. It's a stark reminder of how our relationship with nature has evolved, from conflict to conservation. The Fojo do Lobo de Fafião is considered one of the best preserved examples in the Iberian Peninsula.

Explore the historical significance and natural beauty of Fojo do Lobo de Fafião, a unique landmark in Portugal's stunning landscapes.
Explore the historical significance and natural beauty of Fojo do Lobo de Fafião, a unique landmark in Portugal's stunning landscapes.

The stones whisper tales of survival, fear, and a changing world where wolves are no longer the enemy, but a symbol of a wild heritage we strive to protect.


After soaking in the history and the atmosphere of Fafião, we decided to lighten the mood with a visit to Praia da Quinta da Portelada. The contrast couldn't have been more striking. From a place of ancient conflict to a haven of modern relaxation. The sun was high, the water inviting, and the scenery simply idyllic. Lena, ever the sun-seeker, was in her element. I, on the other hand, found a shady spot under a tree and enjoyed the cool breeze and the sound of the water. I even managed to capture some ambient sounds with my portable audio recorder, hoping to weave them into a future Foley project. The combination of the flowing water and birds chirping was very relaxing.

Experience the tranquil beauty of Praia da Quinta da Portelada, a serene beach paradise in Campo do Gerês, Portugal, perfect for relaxation and nature lovers.
Experience the tranquil beauty of Praia da Quinta da Portelada, a serene beach paradise in Campo do Gerês, Portugal, perfect for relaxation and nature lovers.

For lunch, we stopped at Novas Pontes, a restaurant that came highly recommended. It didn't disappoint. We sat on the terrace, overlooking a lush green landscape, and enjoyed some traditional Portuguese fare. The food was delicious, the service impeccable, and the view simply stunning. It was the perfect way to recharge after a morning of exploring.

Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Novas Pontes in Entre Ambos-os-Rios – where culinary tradition meets warm hospitality.
Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Novas Pontes in Entre Ambos-os-Rios – where culinary tradition meets warm hospitality.

As the day drew to a close, we headed back towards Gerês, stopping at Pirata Do Gerês for a sunset drink. Sipping a local beer, watching the sun dip below the horizon, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. From the echoes of the past at Fojo do Lobo to the serene beauty of Praia da Quinta da Portelada, it was a day that touched both the mind and the soul.

Discover the lively atmosphere and delightful drinks at Pirata Do Gerês, the perfect bar for relaxing after exploring the stunning Gerês region.
Discover the lively atmosphere and delightful drinks at Pirata Do Gerês, the perfect bar for relaxing after exploring the stunning Gerês region.

Dinner tonight was at Lurdes Capela, a local establishment known for its traditional cuisine. The restaurant has been passed down from generation to generation, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. We indulged in some regional specialties, cooked in a wood stove, and savored the flavors of Gerês. It was the perfect end to a day of contrasts and discoveries. I tried the Cabrito do Gerês (goat) while Lena had the Vitela Barrosã (veal).

Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Lurdes Capela, where tradition meets taste in every delightful dish.
Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Lurdes Capela, where tradition meets taste in every delightful dish.

Tomorrow, we're planning to visit Cascata da Rajada and Porta do Mezio. I'm particularly excited about Cascata da Rajada, as I've heard it's a hidden gem. Lena is looking forward to Porta do Mezio, as she's keen to explore the local flora and fauna. Before heading to those natural attractions, we'll grab breakfast at Restaurante Espigueiro do Soajo. For lunch we will visit Essentia do Gerês and for dinner Restaurante Adega Ramalho. Lena also wants to check out Xana's Cosmetics. I'm sure it will be another day filled with adventure and discovery.

As I sit here, penning down my thoughts, I realize that Peneda-Gerês National Park is more than just a beautiful landscape. It's a place where history, culture, and nature intertwine, offering a unique and enriching travel experience. It's a place that challenges you to reflect on your relationship with the world around you and appreciate the simple joys of life. And as I drift off to sleep, I can't help but wonder what tomorrow will bring.

I am glad that Lena convinced me to embark on this trip. I was so caught up in my work and the daily grind in Potsdam. It's important to take a step back and immerse yourself in nature and culture. It opens up your mind and helps you appreciate the world around you.

This trip is also a good reminder that you don't need to spend a fortune to have a great time. Camping and staying in local guesthouses has allowed us to connect with the environment and culture in a way that we wouldn't have been able to if we had stayed in a luxury hotel. It's also been a great way to meet the locals and learn about their way of life. I think sustainable travel is the way to go in the future.

I'm looking forward to sharing more of our adventures with you tomorrow. Until then, good night from Gerês!
Go to day 7 A Day of Discovery in Gerês-Xurés Transboundary Biosphere Reserve
Go to day 9 Chasing Waterfalls and Discovering Hidden Gems in Gerês
trip photo
Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Peneda-Gerês National Park

Discover the natural wonders of Peneda-Gerês National Park in Portugal. Join us on an 11-day journey filled with hikes, wildlife, and cultural immersion.

View full trip

Meet this Featured Explorer

Georgios Sideropoulos
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Sound Engineer specializing in Foley Art
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 33

Ah, hello there! I'm Georgios, a sound engineer with a passion for capturing the world's symphony. Born in Greece but now based in Germany, I spend my days crafting soundscapes for films and my free time exploring the globe with my amazing wife, Lena. I love diving deep into local cultures, savoring unique cuisines, and discovering the hidden sounds of each destination. Join me as I share my travel stories, tips, and sensory experiences from around the world!

Interests:
  • Acoustic Ecology
  • Independent Film
  • Mediterranean Cuisine
  • Urban Exploration
  • Sustainable Living
More about Georgios Sideropoulos

Find Similar Travel Diaries

Explore locations from this diary

  • Fojo do Lobo de Fafião

    Explore the historical significance and natural beauty of Fojo do Lobo de Fafião, a unique landmark in Portugal's stunning landscapes.

  • Praia da Quinta da Portelada

    Experience the tranquil beauty of Praia da Quinta da Portelada, a serene beach paradise in Campo do Gerês, Portugal, perfect for relaxation and nature lovers.

  • Restaurante Pedra Bela Gerês

    Experience authentic Portuguese flavors and stunning views at Restaurante Pedra Bela Gerês in Braga.

  • Novas Pontes

    Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Novas Pontes in Entre Ambos-os-Rios – where culinary tradition meets warm hospitality.

  • Lurdes Capela

    Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Lurdes Capela, where tradition meets taste in every delightful dish.

  • Pirata Do Gerês

    Discover the lively atmosphere and delightful drinks at Pirata Do Gerês, the perfect bar for relaxing after exploring the stunning Gerês region.

Our editors` picks of the latest and greatest in travel - delivered to your inbox weekly
Share:

Select Currency