Giulia's Solo Journey to the Heart of Brazilian Nature

Whispers of the Earth

Today was a day of subterranean wonders and crystalline waters, a true immersion into the geological heart of Chapada dos Guimarães National Park. It’s fascinating how each day here reveals a new facet of this incredible landscape, a new story etched in stone and whispered by the wind. It was a day filled with adventure, reflection, and a deep appreciation for the raw beauty that Brazil holds.

My day began, as most do here, with an early rise and a hearty breakfast at Pomodori Trattoria. The aroma of Italian coffee and freshly baked bread filled the air, a comforting reminder of home even amidst the Brazilian Cerrado. I decided to indulge in one of their famous *empadas* – a savory pastry – filled with local flavors, a delightful fusion of my Italian roots and Brazilian adventures. It’s amazing how a simple meal can set the tone for the entire day. The staff were incredibly friendly, and I even practiced my Portuguese with them, stumbling over a few words but managing to convey my excitement for the day ahead. After breakfast, I gathered my essentials – water, sunscreen (though I’m still kicking myself for forgetting the bug spray!), and my camera – and set off towards the Caverna Aroe Jari.


Explore Brazil's largest sandstone cave, Caverna Aroe Jari, with its stunning rock formations, waterfalls, and the mesmerizing Blue Lagoon.
The drive itself was a spectacle, the landscape unfolding in a panorama of red sandstone cliffs and verdant vegetation. The closer I got to the caves, the more I felt a sense of anticipation building within me. I parked near the entrance and was greeted by a local guide, a requirement for visiting the caves, which I appreciated. It's reassuring to know that the park is taking steps to protect these natural wonders. The guide shared that Aroe Jari means 'Soul Shelter' in the Bororó language, adding an air of mystique to our adventure.
The walk to the cave entrance was a mini-trek in itself, about 2.5 kilometers through the Cerrado. The sun was beating down, making me grateful for my hat and reusable water bottle. As we walked, the guide pointed out various flora and fauna, explaining their significance in the ecosystem. I learned about the twisted trees and colorful flowers that characterize the savannah, a landscape so different from the lush forests of Italy and Canada.

Finally, we reached the entrance of Caverna Aroe Jari, the largest sandstone cave in Brazil. Stepping inside was like entering another world. The temperature dropped noticeably, offering a welcome respite from the heat. The air was thick with humidity, and the only sound was the gentle dripping of water. The cave was dimly lit, and I was grateful I had a headlamp. The guide explained that the cave was formed by erosion over thousands of years, a testament to the power of nature's artistry.

We explored the cave's depths, marveling at the intricate formations and the play of light and shadow. The guide pointed out a waterfall inside the cave, calling it the 'shower room'. We also saw the Gruta da Lagoa Azul (Blue Lagoon Chamber), a lake with a striking blue color due to sunlight filtering through a portal. It was breathtaking. Swimming is not allowed, to preserve the color effect, but the view from the entrance was magical.

To truly connect with a place, one must not only see its beauty but also feel its history and understand its spirit.

Next, we ventured into Caverna Kiogo Brado, an underground gorge with openings to the surface. The light filtering through these openings created an ethereal atmosphere, highlighting the horizontal lines etched into the sandstone walls. It felt like being in an ancient cathedral, the rock formations resembling intricate sculptures. The sheer scale of the cave was awe-inspiring, making me feel incredibly small in the face of such natural grandeur.

Our final cave was Caverna Pobe Jari, known for its two entrances that create a beautiful play of light. The guide explained that the cave also has an underground water level. It was a smaller cave, but its unique features made it equally fascinating. As we exited the cave, I felt a sense of accomplishment and wonder. Exploring these subterranean realms was an experience I would never forget, a journey into the heart of the earth.

After the cave exploration, it was time for lunch. I headed to Restaurante Popular, a local favorite known for its affordable and tasty traditional dishes. The restaurant had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, and I immediately felt at home. I ordered the classic *arroz com pequi* (rice with pequi fruit) and *bife acebolado* (steak with onions), a hearty and flavorful meal that perfectly captured the essence of the region. The service was friendly and efficient, and I enjoyed chatting with the staff about their favorite spots in Chapada dos Guimarães. It's these small interactions that make traveling so enriching, connecting with people and experiencing their culture firsthand.

With my belly full and my spirit rejuvenated, I set off towards Poço das Esmeraldas, the Emerald Pool.

Discover the mesmerizing emerald-green waters of Poço das Esmeraldas, a hidden paradise near Chapada dos Guimarães.
The drive was scenic, passing through rolling hills and verdant landscapes. As I arrived, the sight of the pool took my breath away. The water was a stunning emerald green, crystal clear and inviting. It looked like something out of a fairy tale. The pool is fed by a natural spring, and the water is said to have therapeutic properties. Whether that's true or not, I couldn't resist taking a dip. The water was cool and refreshing, washing away the day's heat and fatigue. I swam in the emerald depths, marveling at the beauty that surrounded me. The sun dappled through the trees, creating a magical play of light on the water. It was a truly serene and unforgettable experience.

As the afternoon wore on, I decided to treat myself to a drink at Guilas Beer, a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere.

Discover the vibrant atmosphere of Guilas Beer in Chapada dos Guimarães, where great drinks and lively conversations await every visitor.
I sat outside, sipping a cold beer and enjoying the laid-back vibe. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of adventure. I chatted with some locals, learning about their lives and experiences in Chapada dos Guimarães. They shared stories of the region's history, its culture, and its natural wonders. It was fascinating to hear their perspectives and gain a deeper understanding of this unique place.

For dinner, I chose Restaurante Penhasco, drawn by its reputation for combining local flavors with a contemporary touch and its stunning views.

Discover delectable desserts and fresh salads at Restaurante Penhasco in beautiful Chapada dos Guimarães - a sweet escape into nature's embrace.
I wasn't disappointed. The restaurant was perched on a cliff, offering panoramic views of the Chapada landscape. The ambiance was chic and sophisticated, and the service was impeccable. I ordered a local fish dish, prepared with fresh ingredients and a creative flair. Each bite was a culinary delight, a symphony of flavors that danced on my palate. As I savored my meal, I watched the sunset paint the sky in hues of orange, pink, and purple. It was a truly magical moment, a perfect ending to a perfect day.

As I sit here now, writing in my journal, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude for this incredible journey. Chapada dos Guimarães has exceeded all my expectations, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and personal reflection. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Morro de São Jeronimo and Cachoeira Encantada, eager to discover more of what this remarkable place has to offer. I also hope to find some time to pick up a souvenir at Suartes artesanatos. It’s hard to believe that my adventure is nearing its end. I will be heading back to Montreal on November 19th. I will miss the warmth of the Brazilian sun, the vibrant colors of the Cerrado, and the friendly faces of the locals. But I know that I will carry the memories of this journey with me forever, etched in my heart like the ancient formations of Chapada dos Guimarães.

“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.” – Saint Augustine. Tonight, I raise a glass to new adventures, to the whispers of the earth, and to the soul-stirring beauty of Brazil.

I must remember to buy some bug spray and sunglasses tomorrow before heading out!