Exploring the Renaissance: A Journey to Florence

Finding Florence's Secrets

Today was all about peeling back the layers of Florence, venturing beyond the well-trodden tourist paths to discover the city's more intimate, intriguing corners. It's a journey of senses and history, a reminder that the true heart of a place often lies in its hidden stories and unexpected encounters. Olivia and I set out with a sense of adventure, ready to embrace whatever Florence decided to reveal to us.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at **Caffè Scudieri**, a place that buzzes with the energy of early risers and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee. The cafe sits right in Piazza San Giovanni, offering an amazing view of the Duomo and Baptistery. I went with a classic cappuccino and a pastry, while Olivia opted for her usual tea and a fruit tart. It's funny how we've established these little routines, even when we're miles away from home. The Scudieri was good, and I enjoyed it, but I have to admit that the coffee at Caffe Gilli was better. Still, the atmosphere and location made it a perfect start to our day.

From there, we made our way to the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella. It's not as instantly recognizable as the Duomo, but that's part of its charm. The Basilica is a Gothic church with beautiful stained glass. As we stepped inside, the cool air and hushed tones offered a welcome respite from the bustling city outside. The architecture was amazing, with soaring arches and intricate details that spoke of centuries of history and craftsmanship. The Basilica was built between 1279 and 1357 by Dominican monks. The most famous fresco is by Masaccio, who painted Trinity for this church. The Green Cloister, so named because Uccello's frescoes have a green base, and the Chapel of the Spaniards, used by Spanish courtiers of Eleonora of Toledo, are worth a visit because of Uccello's perspective paintings. I found myself particularly drawn to the stained glass windows, their vibrant colors casting kaleidoscopic patterns across the ancient stone floors. Olivia, ever the historian, was engrossed in reading about the basilica's significance as a center for the Dominican order in Tuscany. We spent a good hour wandering through the chapels and cloisters, each corner revealing a new artistic or historical treasure.


Explore the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, a stunning Gothic masterpiece in Florence, rich in art, history, and spiritual significance.

Leaving the basilica, we stepped into a different world altogether: the Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. This isn't just a perfume shop; it's an experience. Housed in what was once a Dominican monastery, the Officina is a sensory overload in the best possible way. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica of Santa Maria Novella is the oldest pharmacy in the world. The monks began experimenting with herbs and flowers grown in the monastic garden, creating soothing balms, elixirs, and other medicaments. By 1381 an on-site infirmary was in operation, where the monks' products were used for treating themselves and Florentine patients. One of the products developed about this time was a distilled rose water intended to treat the plague, at the height of the Black Death. The air is thick with the aroma of exotic perfumes, ancient remedies, and herbal concoctions. Olivia was immediately captivated, her librarian's curiosity piqued by the rows of beautifully labeled bottles and jars. I, on the other hand, was slightly overwhelmed, but in a good way. We wandered through the various rooms, each more opulent than the last, discovering the history and craftsmanship behind the Officina's unique products. Olivia ended up buying a rose-scented soap, while I opted for a bottle of their signature potpourri, hoping to bring a little bit of Florence back to our home in Kelowna.


Discover Florence's historic beauty haven at Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, where luxury meets tradition in every product.

The best journeys are those that lead us not only to new places, but also to new perspectives.

Our midday meal was at Enoteca Pinchiorri, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant that promised an unforgettable culinary experience. The restaurant is run by Giorgio Pinchiorri and Annie Féolde, who quite interestingly was the first female chef outside of France to be awarded 3 Michelin stars. From the moment we stepped inside, we were enveloped in an atmosphere of refined elegance. The service was impeccable, the setting was beautiful, and the wine list was extensive. We opted for the tasting menu, a parade of exquisitely prepared dishes that showcased the best of Tuscan cuisine. Each course was a work of art, both visually and gastronomically. The raw cuttlefish in parmesan sauce was excellent, the squid was soft, not chewy at all. The roasted ravioli filled with escarole was also interesting. I also loved the pepper and pickled cabbage on top. The eel sauce made the dish seem a bit like a vitello tonnato. While the food was undeniably impressive, I have to admit that the atmosphere felt a bit stuffy for my taste. It was an enjoyable meal, but I think I prefer something a bit more casual. Olivia, however, was in her element, savoring every bite and engaging in conversation with the sommelier about the nuances of each wine pairing.


Experience exquisite fine dining at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence—where Italian tradition meets modern culinary artistry.

After our luxurious lunch, we needed a bit of a change of pace, so we headed to Piazza della Repubblica. This square is a complete contrast to the hushed elegance of the morning. It's a lively, bustling space filled with street performers, vendors, and tourists soaking up the Florentine atmosphere. The square's history dates back to the Roman era, when it was part of the city's forum, a central gathering place for political and social activities. During the medieval period, the square was known as the Mercato Nuovo, or New Market. In the 19th century, the square underwent significant renovations, including the demolition of old buildings and the construction of new, neoclassical structures. The iconic Fontana di Nettuno, a magnificent fountain adorned with sculptures, was also added to the square during this time. We grabbed a gelato from one of the many cafes lining the square and found a spot to sit and people-watch. Olivia was amused by a street artist creating caricatures, while I was fascinated by a group of musicians playing traditional Italian folk songs. The square was a melting pot of cultures and energies, a reminder of Florence's vibrant and ever-evolving spirit.


Experience the vibrant atmosphere of Piazza della Repubblica, Florence's iconic square filled with history, culture, and lively street performances.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to treat ourselves to a pre-dinner drink at the Atrium Bar. Located in the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, this bar exudes sophistication and charm. The Palazzo Della Gherardesca was unusual for its time in that its main interior space, the atrium, was originally designed as a secondary courtyard. Now covered with a glass roof, like the courtyard Lobby, the Hotel's Atrium Bar occupies a vast sun-lit and decorative space, serving lunch, dinner, and the typical Italian aperitif, afternoon tea, desserts, coffee and cocktails. Olivia ordered a Bellini, while I went for their take on the Negroni, a classic cocktail with a Florentine twist. The drinks were expertly crafted, and the ambiance was perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring. We sat on the outdoor terrace, soaking up the last rays of the Tuscan sun and reflecting on our day's adventures. The bartender, a friendly chap with a wealth of local knowledge, recommended a few hidden gems for us to explore tomorrow, which I dutifully jotted down in my notebook.


Discover the luxurious Atrium Bar in Florence, where exquisite cocktails meet Italian culinary delights in an elegant setting.

For our final culinary experience of the day, we ventured to Buca dell'Orafo, a small, family-run restaurant tucked away in a quiet alley near the Ponte Vecchio. The small restaurant is below street level off an alley-wide passage close to the Arno River. Even though it's been there for decades, the current incarnation under chef-owner Giordano Monni delivers wonderful Tuscan basics and seasonally-inspired interpretations of northern Italian specialties. The name is a nod to the local culture—orafo means “goldsmith,” and this neighborhood was where gold workshops were once located. This place came highly recommended, and it did not disappoint. The aroma of herbs, fresh olive oil and raw meat will leave pleasant memories and precise association. The atmosphere was cozy and intimate, the kind of place where you feel like you're dining in someone's home. We started with Tuscan white beans drizzled with olive oil, with a serving of fennel salami, then move on to the pasta course. For dessert, try the pear slow-cooked in wine or cantucci cookies dipped into vin santo, a strong sweet wine. The food was simple but delicious, showcasing the best of Tuscan cuisine. I opted for the *pappardelle al cinghiale* (wide noodles with wild boar sauce), while Olivia chose the *ribollita* (a hearty bread and vegetable soup). Each bite was a burst of flavor, a testament to the restaurant's commitment to using fresh, local ingredients. We finished our meal with a shared *tiramisu*, the perfect sweet ending to a perfect day. The restaurant is located in the building of the old palace, owned by Santo Stefano Al Ponte, which has been the center of jewelers since 1200. The place is really hidden from tourists, but popular among gourmets.


Discover Buca dell'Orafo: An enchanting restaurant in Florence offering authentic Tuscan dishes within a charming cellar setting.

As we walked back to our apartment, hand in hand, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we had shared today. Florence had revealed its secrets to us, not in grand monuments or famous landmarks, but in the quiet corners, the unexpected encounters, and the simple pleasures of good food, good company, and a shared sense of adventure.

Tomorrow is our last day in Florence, and we plan to make the most of it. Our itinerary includes a visit to the Loggia dei Lanzi, Church and Museum of Orsanmichele and Palazzo Pitti. A breakfast at Caffè Libertà, Lunch at La Buchetta Food & Wine Restaurant, and Dinner at Ristorante Santa Elisabetta is also on the books. Olivia also wants to visit Boutique Nadine. It's going to be a busy day, but I'm excited to see what other treasures Florence has in store for us before we head back to Kelowna.