Solo Expedition to Vatnajökull: An Icelandic Adventure

A Day of Feathers and Fire

Today was a day of contrasts, from the adorable puffins nesting along the coast to the quiet power of a volcanic crater. It’s amazing how much Iceland packs into a single day, and I’m soaking it all in.

My day started with a hearty breakfast at Cafe Vatnajökull. This little gem was a welcome sight, offering excellent coffee and homemade cakes. It's an urban-style coffee shop in the middle of nowhere, which is quite the surprise. Fuelled up and ready, I headed out for my puffin adventure. The plan was to visit Ingólfshöfði Puffin Tour, and I was buzzing with excitement. I’ve always been fascinated by these little birds, and the prospect of seeing them up close was irresistible.


Discover the enchanting world of puffins and explore the breathtaking landscapes of Ingólfshöfði, a historical and ecological gem in Iceland.
The drive to the meeting point for the Ingólfshöfði Puffin Tour was stunning, even by Icelandic standards. The landscape was a surreal mix of black sand beaches and vibrant green hills. Arriving at the designated spot, I hopped aboard a tractor-drawn hay cart. Now, that's not something you do every day! The ride itself was an experience, trundling across the wetlands, the wind whipping at my face. It felt a bit like stepping back in time, a far cry from my usual brewery tours back in Kelowna.

Our guide, a local with generations of family history tied to the land, was fantastic. He shared stories about the area, its history, and of course, the puffins. Did you know Ingólfshöfði is named after one of Iceland's first settlers, Ingólfur Arnarsson? He spent his first winter here around 874-875 CE. The cape itself is nearly 250 feet high, providing a perfect environment for nesting seabirds.

The ride to the cape is an adventure in itself. Since it's not passable by car, going with a tour company is a must. We started about 4 miles from Ingólfshöfði, and the tractor-drawn hay cart took us over water, marshes, and sand. After about 25 minutes, we continued on foot for a scenic 1.5-hour hike around the cape.

“Sometimes, the most rewarding experiences are the ones that require a little extra effort to reach.”

Once we arrived at Ingólfshöfði, the puffins were everywhere! Thousands of them, nesting in the cliffs. The tour involves a steep climb up a sandy slope, but it’s manageable, and the views are worth every step. There were common murres, razorbills, fulmars, and of course, the adorable puffins. I snapped photo after photo, trying to capture their quirky charm. It was hard to believe how close we could get without disturbing them. The puffins seemed completely unfazed by our presence, going about their business as if we weren't even there. I wish Olivia could have been here to see this, she would have loved it.

The hike around the reserve is about 1.5 miles long, starting with that steep climb up the sandy slope. Then, it traverses through rocky terrain before becoming easier on flat grass. There were plenty of stops to savor the views and spot the numerous bird species.

After the puffin tour, I grabbed a quick lunch at Veitingasala Restaurant, Shop, and Gas. I opted for the lamb burger, which came highly recommended. I'll admit, I was skeptical about a gas station burger, but it was surprisingly delicious. It was a hearty, satisfying meal that fueled me up for the afternoon’s adventure.

The afternoon was dedicated to exploring Tjarnargígur Crater. Located in the Lakagígar area, it's one of the many craters formed during the massive Skaftáreldar eruption of 1783-1784. The drive there was an adventure in itself, requiring a 4x4 to navigate the rugged terrain. The road to Laki and Tjarnargígur is difficult, with several rivers to cross, so a capable vehicle is essential.


Discover the stunning Tjarnargígur Crater in Vatnajökull National Park, a nature lover's paradise filled with breathtaking views and rich wildlife.
The landscape around Tjarnargígur is starkly beautiful. The crater itself holds a small lake with crystal-clear turquoise water, a stunning contrast to the surrounding yellow moss and black lava fields. It’s a place of incredible peace and quiet, a world away from the bustling tourist spots. The tranquility of the area is a stark contrast to the dramatic volcanic history that shaped it, allowing visitors to appreciate the serene beauty of nature.

I took a walk around the crater, soaking in the views. The air was fresh and invigorating, a welcome break from the day's earlier activities. It's hard to imagine the devastation that must have occurred during the eruption, looking at the serene landscape now. The whole area around the crater is very sensitive, mainly consisting of lava and moss.

Access to Tjarnargígur isn't easy, but that's part of what makes it special. The road is rugged and requires patience, with an average speed of under 30 kilometers per hour for the 40-kilometer drive. The crater is located about six kilometers west of the Laki mountain. There's a parking lot nearby with facilities for a picnic. By the crater, there are two walking paths: one to the pond and another through the lava.

For dinner, I treated myself to a pizza at Ishusid Pizzeria Restaurant in Höfn. After a long day of exploring, a comforting meal was exactly what I needed. I opted for one of their specialty pizzas and a local beer, a perfect way to end the day. The crust was thin and crispy, and the toppings were fresh and generous. The staff were lovely and welcoming, and the atmosphere was cozy and relaxed.


Experience delectable pizzas and fresh seafood at Ishusid Pizzeria in Höfn - where local flavors meet culinary excellence.
Finally, before calling it a night, I decided to check out Ægir Bar - Taproom. I’d heard they had a great selection of local brews, and as a brewery tour guide, I couldn’t resist. I sampled a couple of their beers, chatting with the friendly bartenders about the Icelandic craft beer scene. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. The bar is known for showcasing Icelandic brews, with a rotating selection from the best local breweries. The atmosphere is vibrant and welcoming, with a contemporary design that complements its lively setting.


Discover the best of Icelandic craft beers at Ægir Bar - Taproom in Reykjavík, where lively ambiance meets exceptional brews.
Tomorrow, I’m planning to explore the Glacier Travel Ice cave tours and visit Stokksnes. I'm looking forward to another day of breathtaking scenery and unique experiences. This solo trip is turning out to be exactly what I needed – a chance to reconnect with nature and myself.

I think Olivia and Ethan would love this trip, especially the puffins! Maybe next time I can convince them to come along. But for now, I'm enjoying the solitude and the freedom to explore at my own pace. Time to get some rest and prepare for another day of Icelandic adventures.