Exploring Évora: A Romantic Getaway in Portugal

Echoes of the Past

Today was all about stepping back—way back—into the mists of time. Lena and I ventured out to explore some of the most ancient sites around Évora, places where the stones themselves seem to whisper stories of civilizations long gone. It’s a humbling experience, realizing how much history this region holds, layers upon layers of human existence etched into the very landscape.



Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Híbrido. I opted for a traditional Portuguese pastry, while Lena enjoyed a fruit-and-yogurt bowl. Híbrido is known for its contemporary take on Portuguese cuisine, and it was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration.



First on our itinerary was the Almendres Cromlech. Driving there, the landscape unfolded into rolling hills dotted with cork trees and olive groves, a scene that felt both timeless and distinctly Alentejan. As a software developer, I spend most of my days surrounded by lines of code, so escaping into nature and history like this is incredibly grounding.



Arriving at the Almendres Cromlech, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale of the site. It’s the largest megalithic complex in the Iberian Peninsula, a vast circle of standing stones arranged with an almost eerie precision. The stones, weathered and worn by millennia of wind and rain, stood as silent witnesses to countless sunrises and sunsets. Lena, with her artistic eye, was captivated by the shapes and textures of the stones, taking numerous photos from every conceivable angle.

To walk among these stones is to feel a connection to the ancient people who erected them, to ponder their beliefs, their rituals, and their place in the cosmos.

As we wandered through the Cromlech, we tried to imagine what life must have been like for those who built this place. The stones date back to the 6th millennium BC, making them older than Stonehenge. It’s believed that the Cromlech may have served as a primitive astronomical observatory or a sacred site for religious ceremonies. Standing there, surrounded by these ancient monoliths, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and wonder.



After the Cromlech, we drove to the Great Dolmen of Zambujeiro. This megalithic monument is one of the largest dolmens in Iberia, a massive structure consisting of seven standing stones and a closing slab. The dolmen, dating back to 4000-3000 BC, is thought to have been a burial chamber.


The sheer size of the stones is impressive, each standing about 6 meters high. Unfortunately, the entrance was blocked, so we couldn't go inside, but we peered in from behind, trying to imagine the rituals and ceremonies that might have taken place there. The dolmen is now protected by a metal enclosure, a necessary measure to preserve it for future generations.


For lunch, we stopped at Restaurante Guião in Évora. This traditional Portuguese restaurant is known for its authentic Alentejan cuisine. I ordered the *cção de coentrada à alentejana* (dogfish stew with coriander), a local specialty, while Lena opted for the grilled salmon. The food was delicious, hearty, and comforting, exactly what we needed after a morning of exploring ancient sites.



Our final stop for the day was the Castle of Arraiolos. Perched atop a hill, the castle offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. The town of Arraiolos is also famous for its distinctive carpets, so we were looking forward to seeing the castle and learning more about the local craftsmanship.


Arriving in Arraiolos, we drove up to the castle. The structure dates back to the early 14th century, built by King Dinis. What makes this castle unique is its circular shape, an unusual design for medieval fortifications. As we walked along the ramparts, we admired the views of the town below and the rolling hills stretching out to the horizon. The castle has a rich history, having served as a strategic military outpost and a noble residence.


Unfortunately, the castle has suffered damage over the centuries, particularly from the earthquake of 1755. However, it has been partially restored, and it’s still possible to appreciate its original grandeur. As we explored the castle grounds, we imagined what life must have been like within those walls, the soldiers guarding the ramparts, the nobles feasting in the great hall.


After visiting the castle, we took a stroll through the town of Arraiolos, browsing the local shops selling the famous Arraiolos carpets. These carpets are known for their intricate designs and vibrant colors, a testament to the skill and artistry of the local weavers. Lena, with her graphic design background, was particularly impressed by the craftsmanship. We ended up buying a small carpet as a souvenir, a reminder of our visit to this charming town.


As the sun began to set, we drove back to Évora, feeling a sense of contentment and awe. Today was a journey through time, a chance to connect with the ancient roots of this land. We finished our day at SkyBAR Évora , a rooftop bar offering stunning views of the city. Sipping on a glass of local wine, we watched the sunset over the historic skyline, the ancient monuments bathed in a warm, golden light.


The SkyBAR had a great atmosphere. The music was chilled, and the service was excellent. It was the perfect place to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. We chatted about our favorite moments, the imposing stones of Almendres Cromlech, the solemn presence of the Great Dolmen of Zambujeiro, the panoramic views from the Castle of Arraiolos.


For dinner, we decided to try Restaurante Cozinha da Catarina. This restaurant is known for its traditional Alentejan cuisine and cozy atmosphere. I ordered the *bochechas de porco* (pork cheeks), a regional specialty, while Lena opted for the *bacalhau* (codfish). The food was delicious and comforting, the perfect way to end a day of exploration.


The restaurant was charming and intimate, with a rustic decor that added to its appeal. The service was friendly and attentive, making us feel right at home. It was clear that this was a place loved by locals, a testament to its quality and authenticity.


As we walked back to our hotel, the Mar De AR Aqueduto Hotel, we reflected on our day. It was a day of history, culture, and natural beauty, a chance to step back in time and connect with the ancient roots of this land. Évora continues to surprise and delight us, revealing its treasures one day at a time. Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Royal Palace of Évora and other historical sites within the city. I’m particularly excited to see the Igreja de São João Evangelista, also known as Igreja dos Lóios. Good night from Évora!