Exploring the Mystical Forests of Yakushima

Reaching for the Sky in Yakushima

Today was a day of conquering heights and immersing myself in the serene beauty of Yakushima's ancient forests. It was a day that tested my endurance and rewarded me with breathtaking views and a deeper connection to nature. After a hearty breakfast at Smiley, I set out for Mt. Miyanoura, the highest peak in Kyushu, followed by an enchanting visit to the Kokemusu Forest.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

My day began with a quick and satisfying breakfast at Smiley. I opted for a simple toast and coffee to fuel up for the challenging hike ahead. The cafe had a cozy vibe, perfect for gathering my thoughts before embarking on the day’s adventure.

The ascent of Mt. Miyanoura was nothing short of demanding. The Yodogawa trail, though popular, presented a steady climb that tested my resolve. The trail meandered through diverse landscapes, from lush forests to rocky terrains. I pushed myself, driven by the anticipation of the panoramic views from the summit. As I ascended, the air grew crisper, and the sounds of civilization faded, replaced by the symphony of nature.

The initial stretch to the Yodogawa Hut was manageable, but the real climb began thereafter. The path between Yodogawa Hut and Hana-no-ego Marshland proved to be the most strenuous, demanding both physical and mental fortitude. I paused briefly at Hana-no-ego Marshland, Japan’s southernmost high-altitude marsh, marveling at the unique ecosystem. It was a testament to the island’s diverse landscapes, a reward in itself before the final push to the summit.

Finally, after hours of rigorous trekking, I reached the summit of Mt. Miyanoura. The view was simply breathtaking. From the highest point in Kyushu, I could see the vast expanse of the ocean, the surrounding islands, and the lush mountains of Yakushima stretching out beneath me. The sense of accomplishment was immense, a culmination of effort and determination. I took a moment to soak in the view, capturing it with my camera and etching it into my memory.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes and ancient cedar forests of Mt. Miyanoura, the highest peak in Kyushu, a treasure for nature enthusiasts.

The summit of Mt. Miyanoura is more than just a physical achievement; it's a moment of profound connection with the natural world, offering a breathtaking panorama that etches itself into the soul.

After descending from Mt. Miyanoura, I was ready for lunch. I stopped at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. I decided to try their highly recommended flying fish ramen. It was delicious and nourishing, a welcome treat after the long hike. The restaurant provided a relaxing atmosphere, allowing me to recharge before my next adventure.

With renewed energy, I ventured into the Kokemusu Forest, a realm of ancient trees and moss-covered landscapes. This forest, also known as the Shiratani Unsuikyo Moss Forest, is said to have inspired the Studio Ghibli film *Princess Mononoke*. As I stepped into the forest, I was immediately transported to a magical world. The air was thick with moisture, and the ground was carpeted in vibrant green moss.


Explore the ancient beauty of Kokemusu Forest in Yakushima, a hiker's paradise filled with towering cedars and breathtaking landscapes.

Walking through the Kokemusu Forest felt like entering a living fairy tale. Every tree, every rock, was adorned with a thick layer of moss, creating a surreal and enchanting environment. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting an ethereal glow on the landscape. I spent hours wandering through the forest, taking in the beauty and tranquility of this ancient woodland.

I followed the Taikoiwa Round Trip Course, immersing myself in the moss-covered wonderland. The interplay of light and shadow, the intricate patterns of the moss, and the sheer age of the trees created a sense of timelessness. It was a place where I could truly disconnect from the modern world and reconnect with nature.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to a heavenly kitchen for dinner. This small, plant-based restaurant is known for its innovative vegetarian cuisine crafted from local ingredients. I savored each dish, appreciating the artistry and flavors that Miki, the owner, brought to the table. The cozy ambiance of the wooden house added to the charm of the dining experience. As I enjoyed the meal, I reflected on the day’s adventures.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I decided to visit Seirios, a local bar in Anbo. The bar had a homely vibe, and I enjoyed a matcha green tea beer, a unique local brew. It was a perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day’s experiences. According to some reviews, Seirios is known for its venison pizza, but I decided to stick with the matcha beer this time.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much Yakushima had to offer. From the challenging ascent of Mt. Miyanoura to the tranquil beauty of the Kokemusu Forest, every moment was filled with wonder and inspiration. It was a day that tested my limits and rewarded me with unforgettable experiences.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the East China Sea Observatory and the Yakushima Museum of History and Folklore. I’m looking forward to discovering more about the island’s history and culture. I’ll also be having breakfast at Aqua Cafe, lunch again at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, and dinner at SamPotei. I might even check out Cafe&Bar RainTree in the evening. I’m excited to see what new adventures await me.

Even though Lena isn't here with me on this trip, I know she would have loved exploring the Kokemusu Forest. We often hike together in the Harz Mountains, and she always appreciates the beauty of nature. I made sure to take plenty of photos to share with her when I get back to Berlin.

As I prepare for another day of exploration, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima. This island has a way of captivating the soul, reminding us of the beauty and power of the natural world. It’s a place where I feel truly alive, connected to something greater than myself.

The day reminded me of a quote by John Muir:

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.

And with that, I bid you goodnight from Yakushima, ready to embrace whatever adventures tomorrow may bring.

As I reflect on my journey so far, I realize that solo travel is not just about seeing new places, but also about discovering new aspects of myself. Each day brings new challenges and opportunities for growth, and I am grateful for every moment of this incredible adventure.