Family Adventure in Serra de São Mamede Natural Park

Serra de São Mamede: Trails and Hidden Gems

Today was all about embracing the natural beauty and historical charm of Serra de São Mamede Natural Park. With the family in tow, we set out to explore the trails and discover some of the hidden gems this region has to offer. It was a day filled with fresh air, stunning views, and a deeper appreciation for the peacefulness of rural Portugal.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Olha a Tosta in Nisa. Mei opted for the Tosta Alentejana, a regional specialty with chorizo and Nisa cheese, while Lina went for the simpler Tosta Mista. I decided to try the Tosta Portuguesa, which had pork loin and local sausage. It was the perfect way to fuel up for our morning hike. I am always happy to start the day with a good breakfast; it is something that I have come to appreciate even more since moving from Singapore to Berlin.

With our stomachs full, we headed to our first destination: the Trilho da Barca d'Amieira - Passadiços de Nisa. This trail has been on my list since I first read about it, and I was eager to experience it firsthand with my family. The drive to the trailhead was scenic, with rolling hills and quaint villages dotting the landscape. We parked the car and took a moment to stretch our legs and take in the fresh air before starting our walk. The weather was perfect for hiking, with a gentle breeze and plenty of sunshine. I made sure we all had sunscreen on, mindful of the essentials I packed, even though I had forgotten our rain jackets and first aid kit.

The Trilho da Barca d'Amieira is a linear trail, about 3.6 km each way, that follows the banks of the Tejo River. We chose to start near the Fratel Dam, planning to walk as far as we comfortably could before turning back. The trail immediately impressed us with its well-maintained wooden walkways, known as passadiços, that hugged the riverbank. These elevated paths made it easy to navigate the terrain and offered stunning views of the river and surrounding landscape.

Lina was immediately captivated by the Miradouro Transparente do Tejo, a skywalk with a glass floor that extends over the river. It was a bit nerve-wracking to step onto the glass, but the view of the Fratel Dam and the river below was incredible. Mei, who is usually not a fan of heights, held my hand tightly as we ventured out onto the skywalk, but even she had to admit that the view was worth the initial anxiety. I took several photos, trying to capture the breathtaking scenery and Lina's excitement.

As we continued along the trail, we came across a rather long suspension bridge. It was a bit wobbly, and Lina found it quite amusing to watch me try to keep my balance. The bridge swayed gently with each step, adding a touch of adventure to our hike. We made sure to take our time crossing, enjoying the unique perspective of the river from above.

The beauty of a place is not just in what you see, but in how it makes you feel.

The trail also featured a section along the Muro de Sirga, an old towpath used to pull boats along the river. This historic path provided a glimpse into the region's past, reminding us of the people who once relied on the river for their livelihoods. We imagined horses and workers toiling along the path, pulling boats against the current. The path was narrow and rocky in places, requiring us to watch our step, but it added an element of authenticity to the experience.

After a few hours of hiking, we decided to turn back, as Lina was starting to get tired. We made our way back to the car, enjoying the familiar views from a different perspective. The trail was relatively quiet, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the sounds of nature. We spotted several birds along the way, and Lina was particularly excited to see a pair of swans gliding gracefully on the river.

By lunchtime, we were all feeling quite hungry, so we drove to Carlos Caeiro for a well-deserved meal. This restaurant came highly recommended for its traditional Portuguese cuisine, and we were eager to try it out. The restaurant had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, with rustic decor and friendly staff. We were seated at a table with a view of the surrounding countryside, which added to the overall experience. The aroma of the dishes wafted through the air, making our mouths water in anticipation.

Mei and I both opted for the arroz de marisco, a seafood rice dish that is a staple of Portuguese cuisine. Lina chose the grilled chicken, which came with a side of fries and a salad. The arroz de marisco was served in a large pot, filled with a generous portion of rice, shrimp, clams, and mussels. The flavors were rich and savory, with a hint of sweetness from the seafood. Mei and I savored every bite, commenting on how fresh and delicious the ingredients were. Lina thoroughly enjoyed her chicken, devouring it with gusto. For dessert, we shared a slice of chocolate cake, which was moist and decadent.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we set off to our next destination: the Ermida de São Mamede. This small chapel is located on a hilltop, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The drive to the chapel was steep and winding, but the scenery was well worth the effort. As we ascended, we passed through forests of cork oak trees, their bark stripped bare in sections. The air was filled with the scent of pine and eucalyptus, creating a refreshing and invigorating atmosphere.

When we arrived at the Ermida de São Mamede, we were immediately struck by its simple beauty. The chapel is small and unassuming, with whitewashed walls and a red-tiled roof. It exudes a sense of tranquility and peace, inviting visitors to reflect and contemplate. We took a moment to admire the chapel's architecture and soak in the serene atmosphere. The views from the hilltop were breathtaking, stretching as far as the eye could see. We could see the rolling hills of the Serra de São Mamede Natural Park, dotted with small villages and farms. In the distance, we could make out the glinting waters of the Tejo River.

We spent some time exploring the grounds around the chapel, discovering hidden corners and enjoying the peace and quiet. Lina was fascinated by the small stone walls that surrounded the chapel, imagining them as the walls of a castle. She ran around, pretending to be a princess, while Mei and I sat on a bench, enjoying the view and each other's company. It was a perfect moment of family bonding, away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

As the sun began to set, we decided to head back to Nisa. Before dinner, we stopped at O Castelo - Café Lounge for a quick drink. This cozy café had a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, with comfortable seating and friendly staff. I ordered a local beer, while Mei opted for a glass of wine. Lina chose a refreshing juice. We sat outside, enjoying the cool evening air and watching the town come alive as the day drew to a close.

For dinner, we decided to try Dom Jardim, a restaurant known for its traditional Alentejo cuisine. The restaurant had a charming and rustic ambiance, with exposed stone walls and wooden beams. We were seated at a table in a quiet corner, away from the main dining area. The menu featured a variety of regional specialties, and we were eager to sample some of the local flavors.

I decided to try the migas, a traditional Alentejo dish made with bread, garlic, and pork. Mei opted for the açorda, a soup made with bread, garlic, coriander, and poached eggs. Lina chose the grilled pork, which came with a side of potatoes and vegetables. The migas was rich and flavorful, with a satisfyingly chewy texture. The açorda was light and refreshing, with a delicate balance of flavors. Lina enjoyed her pork, commenting on how tender and juicy it was. For dessert, we shared a sericaia, a traditional Alentejo cake made with eggs, sugar, and cinnamon. It was the perfect ending to a delicious and satisfying meal.

As we drove back to our guesthouse, we reflected on the day's adventures. We had hiked along scenic trails, explored a historic chapel, and savored delicious local cuisine. It was a day filled with discovery, tranquility, and family bonding. I felt grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with my loved ones, creating memories that we would cherish for years to come.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Castelo de Vide, including the Sinagoga de Castelo de Vide and Caleiras da Escusa. I am particularly interested in visiting the synagogue, as I am always eager to learn more about the history and culture of the places we visit. I am also looking forward to seeing the Caleiras da Escusa, unique limestone formations that are said to be quite impressive. It promises to be another day of adventure and discovery in Serra de São Mamede Natural Park. I am also hoping to find some time to pick up the rain jackets and first aid kit that we forgot, just to be prepared for any unexpected weather or minor injuries.

The Serra de São Mamede Natural Park continues to surprise us with its blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings and to continue sharing our experiences with you all. Until then, happy travels!