Solo Journey Through Montenegro's Durmitor National Park

Whispers of the Black Lake

Today, Durmitor revealed its soul to me. It was a day of tranquil waters, towering peaks, and the kind of silence that speaks volumes. I felt a profound connection to this land, a sense of coming home that resonated deep within my Montenegrin heart. The crisp mountain air, the scent of pine, and the sheer majesty of the landscape combined to create an experience I will treasure forever.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Zlatni Bor. The Durmitor breakfast was exactly what I needed to start my day: svinjska pečenica, goveđi sudžuk, 3 jaja na oko, durmitorski sir i skorup, paradajz. It was a delicious and fortifying meal of local specialties. The cozy, wood-dominated restaurant was the perfect place to fuel up before heading out to explore the park. I felt a sense of warmth and welcome that reminded me of my childhood visits to Kolašin. The restaurant promotes the preparation of traditional, homemade food, and all groceries are sourced from local suppliers.

With a full stomach and a spirit eager for adventure, I set off for the Durmitor View Point. The drive itself was a feast for the eyes, each turn revealing a new vista of rugged peaks and verdant valleys. When I arrived at the viewpoint, I was struck by the sheer scale of the landscape. The panoramic view stretched out before me, encompassing the entirety of Durmitor National Park. I could see the jagged peaks of Bobotov Kuk, Savin Kuk, and countless others, their snow-capped summits piercing the clear blue sky. The Tara River snaked its way through the canyon below, a ribbon of turquoise winding through the ancient rock.


Discover the stunning natural beauty and panoramic views of Durmitor View Point in Montenegro, a must-visit for nature lovers and adventure seekers.
I spent a long time at the viewpoint, simply soaking in the beauty and breathing in the crisp mountain air. It was a moment of profound peace and connection, a reminder of the power and majesty of nature. I thought of Klaus back in Heidelberg, and how much he would have loved to see this view. Perhaps one day I can bring him here, to share this special place with the man I love. The temperature in Durmitor during May typically ranges from 6°C to 17°C, which made the weather moderately chilly, humid but cool.

From the viewpoint, I made my way to Crno Jezero – the Black Lake. The most popular tourist destination in the north of Montenegro. As I approached the lake, the towering peaks of Durmitor loomed overhead, their reflections shimmering in the crystal-clear water. The scene was almost impossibly beautiful, a perfect harmony of mountain and lake. I decided to take the educational trail around the lake, a 3.5km loop that promised to reveal the secrets of the area's flora and fauna. The trail was well-maintained, with some sections of steps and rocky terrain, but overall it was an easy and enjoyable walk. I saw families with young children and older couples, all enjoying the beauty of the lake.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Crno Jezero, Montenegro's iconic glacial lake surrounded by the stunning Durmitor Mountains.

“In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.”

As I walked, I paused to read the informational signs, learning about the different species of plants and animals that call Durmitor home. I saw towering pine trees, delicate wildflowers, and a variety of birds flitting through the forest. The air was filled with the scent of pine and the sound of birdsong, creating a sensory symphony that soothed my soul. I even spotted some forest strawberries, tasting the nature to the fullest. The lake itself was a sight to behold, its surface as smooth as glass, reflecting the surrounding mountains like a mirror. I could see small fish swimming in the shallows, and the occasional duck paddling across the water.

I thought about my childhood in Kolašin, and how I used to spend hours exploring the forests and mountains around my village. This trip to Durmitor feels like a continuation of that journey, a chance to reconnect with the land of my birth and to rediscover the beauty that lies within. I remembered one particular summer, when I was about ten years old, and I got lost in the woods while picking berries. I was scared and alone, but I also felt a sense of wonder and excitement. I eventually found my way back to the village, but the memory of that adventure has stayed with me ever since.

After completing the loop around the lake, I decided to treat myself to lunch at Ukus Durmitora. I had heard great things about this restaurant, and I was eager to try their traditional Montenegrin cuisine. I ordered the kachamak, a comforting cornmeal dish that is a staple of the region. It was absolutely delicious, a hearty and flavorful meal that warmed me from the inside out. The restaurant's atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and the staff were friendly and attentive. I chatted with the owner for a while, learning about the history of the restaurant and his passion for local cuisine. I could always taste a poulet that is cooked to perfection and a bière délicieuse. The restaurant also features a beer garden.


Discover authentic Montenegrin flavors at Ukus Durmitora in Žabljak — where tradition meets taste in a picturesque setting.
As the afternoon wore on, I found myself drawn to Pub Kino Durmitor. I had read mixed reviews about this place, but I was curious to see it for myself. It turned out to be a cozy and atmospheric bar, with a mix of locals and tourists enjoying drinks and conversation. I ordered a local beer and settled in to soak up the atmosphere. I wasn't looking for a crazy night out, but simply a place to relax and unwind after a long day of hiking. The pub had an Irish flag, but did not serve Irish beer.


Discover the lively atmosphere of Pub Kino Durmitor in Žabljak, Montenegro, a perfect spot for drinks and socializing after outdoor adventures.
The pub's interior was decorated with movie posters and vintage film equipment, giving it a unique and quirky vibe. The music was a mix of classic rock and Montenegrin folk songs, creating an eclectic and enjoyable soundtrack. I struck up a conversation with a local man who told me stories about Durmitor's history and folklore. He spoke with such passion and pride, and I felt a deep connection to this land and its people.

For dinner, I decided to try Durmitorsko Sijelo, a national restaurant offering comfort food prepared using organic local ingredients. I ordered the jagnjetina ispod sača, lamb baked in a traditional sač oven. The lamb was incredibly tender and flavorful, infused with the smoky aroma of the oven. It was a truly memorable meal, a perfect ending to a perfect day. The restaurant is located at Savin Kuk cable car starting point. The food was fresh and natural, such as teleca corba and Dormitorsku corbu.


Savor traditional Montenegrin flavors in a scenic setting at Durmitorsko Sijelo in Virak.
As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of today. Durmitor has captured my heart, and I know that I will never forget this journey. Tomorrow, I plan to hike to Bobotov Kuk, the highest peak in Durmitor National Park. I'm excited for the challenge and the opportunity to see Durmitor from a new perspective. I am a bit nervous about the climb, but I know that the views from the top will be worth the effort. I also want to visit Ledena Pecina – the Ice Cave, and perhaps buy a souvenir for Klaus at the Souvenir-shop TAMARA. I am also looking forward to trying out Lupo D`Argento for breakfast.

I know Klaus would have loved today. He always says, “Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” Indeed, Durmitor has left me speechless, and now I am eager to share its stories with you.

Until tomorrow,
Jelena