Exploring the Natural and Cultural Wonders of Saaremaa Island

Stepping Back in Time in Saaremaa

Today was a delightful immersion into Saaremaa’s rich tapestry of history and culture. From exploring grand estates to admiring traditional windmills and savoring local flavors, it was a day that truly captured the essence of this enchanting island. The crisp September air added a touch of magic as we journeyed through time and tradition.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Saaremaa Veski in Kuressaare [i]. The restaurant itself is quite the attraction, housed in a stone windmill dating back to 1899. It's a unique experience to dine within such a historical structure. I opted for the vegan platter, a delightful assortment of beet hummus, freshly cooked mushrooms, candied garlic, raw crackers, and local fruits and vegetables. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration, and Markus would have loved the local beer selection they had! The atmosphere was cozy, and I made a mental note to bring Aino here someday; she would be fascinated by the windmill's history.


Experience the rich flavors of Estonian cuisine at Saaremaa Veski, a historic restaurant that offers a unique blend of tradition and culinary excellence.

With our bellies full, we set off to explore Koigi Mõis. It was a bit of a drive, but the scenery was worth it. As we drove, I couldn't help but think about how much Alaska and Finland have in common. Vast forests, clear skies and crisp air. I always find myself drawn to places that remind me of home. Upon arriving at Koigi Mõis, I was immediately struck by its serene beauty. The estate, with its roots stretching back to the 18th century, exuded an air of timeless elegance. The main building, a varaklassitsistlik stone structure completed in 1771, showcased baroque accents and a portico supported by four columns. It was easy to imagine the noble families who once resided here, living lives of grandeur and sophistication. I learned that the estate had been separated from Mäo Manor in the early 18th century and was owned by the von Gruenewaldt family until 1919.


Experience the serene beauty and rich history of Koigi Mõis in Saare County, Estonia, a captivating escape for all nature lovers and history enthusiasts.

I discovered that the estate has a rich history of education, with a home school operating there from 1836 to 1846, educating the children of many prominent figures. Today, the main building houses a school, a testament to the estate's enduring commitment to learning. We wandered through the grounds, admiring the well-preserved outbuildings, including a striking neogothic dairy with a stepped gable from the late 19th century. The gardens were particularly lovely, offering a peaceful retreat amidst the historical surroundings.

Sometimes, the most enriching experiences are found in the quiet corners of history, where the echoes of the past whisper stories of resilience and beauty.

Our next stop was the Eemu Windmill, a charming landmark that offered a glimpse into Saaremaa's agricultural heritage. Located in Linnuse village, about a kilometer from the dam separating Muhu and Saaremaa, the windmill stood proudly against the landscape. It was a typical wooden structure, with stairs attached to its body, turning along with the rest of it. I climbed the stairs, eager to explore the two floors and see the old grinding mechanism. It was fascinating to imagine how the windmill once played a vital role in the local community, providing a means for grinding grain and producing flour.


Discover Eemu Windmill in Saare County, a beautiful symbol of Estonia’s agricultural heritage surrounded by breathtaking landscapes.

The Eemu Windmill was built on the historic Eemu farm windmill site by Jüri Ling. The windmill is open to the public, and visitors can take guided tours to learn about its mechanics and significance in local agriculture. The surrounding fields and gardens provide a tranquil setting for leisurely walks and picnics, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the peaceful atmosphere of the Estonian countryside. As I stood there, admiring the windmill and the surrounding landscape, I felt a deep connection to the past. It was a reminder of the simple, yet essential, tasks that once sustained communities and shaped the cultural landscape of Saaremaa. I even saw a manual millstone and experienced making flour the old-fashioned way.

For lunch, we stopped at Lümanda söögimaja, a local inn known for its traditional Saaremaa cuisine. The inn is located in an old church school, adding to its rustic charm. I ordered the tuhlipuder ja nott, a traditional dish of potato porridge with smoked meat sauce. It was hearty and flavorful, the perfect comfort food after a day of exploring. My friends opted for the fish, which they said was incredibly fresh and delicious. The portions were generous, and the prices were reasonable. The atmosphere was cozy and relaxed, making it a perfect spot to unwind and enjoy a taste of local life.


Experience authentic Estonian cuisine at Lümanda Söögimaja – where tradition meets generous hospitality in Saare County.

I learned that Lümanda söögimaja has been a family-run business since 1997, serving pure and traditional Saaremaa farm food. They prioritize using ecologically clean vegetables grown by local farmers and source fresh fish directly from local fishermen. It was heartening to support a business that values local traditions and sustainable practices. The staff was friendly and welcoming, making us feel right at home.

As evening approached, we made our way back to Kuressaare for dinner at Kapteni Kõrts & Resto. The restaurant is located on Tallinna Street and is known for its authentic atmosphere and local heritage. I decided to try the slow-cooked pork neck with lingonberry glaze, a dish that perfectly blended sweet and savory flavors. My friends chose the seafood options, which they raved about. The portions were generous, and the prices were reasonable.


Discover traditional Estonian cuisine at Kapteni Kõrts & Resto in Kuressaare—where local flavors meet warm hospitality.

After dinner, we decided to check out Chameleon Lounge, a cozy café-lounge in the heart of Kuressaare. The lounge has a rich kitchen and offers a variety of cocktails, making it a popular spot for both locals and tourists. The interior design strikes a balance between a cozy restaurant and a dynamic nightclub, creating a unique atmosphere for casual gatherings and lively nights out. We enjoyed a couple of drinks, listened to some chillout music, and reflected on the day's adventures. It was the perfect way to wind down before heading back to our campsite.


Discover the vibrant flavors of Chameleon Lounge in Kuressaare, where culinary creativity meets a lively atmosphere.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, our final day on Saaremaa, I'm excited to explore Illiku laid and Väinatamm [i]. We'll start with breakfast at omnom söö&jook, followed by lunch at Restoran Rose and dinner at Sõstar köök & baar [i]. Before catching our bus, we'll make a stop at Auriga Kaubanduskeskus for some last-minute souvenir shopping [i].

Today was a reminder of the beauty and richness that can be found in exploring local history and culture. Saaremaa has truly captured my heart with its serene landscapes, charming landmarks, and warm hospitality. As I drift off to sleep under the starry sky, I'm filled with gratitude for the experiences and memories I've made on this enchanting island. I am already looking forward to sharing stories with Markus and Aino, inspiring them to visit this gem of the Baltic Sea.