Family Adventure in Enchanting Sintra
Day 3: A Royal Day in Sintra: Pena Palace and the Countess's Retreat
Discover the fairytale allure of Sintra with Pena Palace's vibrant colors and the serene beauty of the Countess of Edla's Chalet.
Fairytale Day in Sintra
Today was a day straight out of a fairytale! Sintra, with its whimsical architecture and lush landscapes, truly captured our hearts. I was especially excited to explore two of its most enchanting spots: the National Palace of Pena and the Chalet of the Countess of Edla. The family was ready, essentials packed (though I still regret forgetting the portable charger!), and spirits high.
Discover the National Palace of Pena in Sintra, a majestic castle blending rich history with stunning architecture, set in a breathtaking landscape.
Our day began, as every good day should, with a hearty breakfast. We headed to Metamorphosis, a charming little spot near the train station. The reviews I'd read online praised their traditional Portuguese dishes, and I was eager to try them out. Sophie was particularly excited, as she's been developing quite the adventurous palate. Hans, ever the pragmatist, was just happy to have a good cup of coffee before we started our trek. The restaurant was indeed cozy, with a lovely view of the old train station. I opted for the *Bacalhau à Brás*, while Hans enjoyed a classic *Francesinha*. Sophie, surprisingly, chose the grilled sea beam, devouring every last bite. It's moments like these, sharing delicious food and laughter, that make our family trips so special. Plus, knowing the prices were fair made it even better.
Experience exquisite Portuguese cuisine at Metamorphosis in Sintra - where tradition meets modern flavors.
Fueled up and ready to go, we hopped on a bus headed towards Pena Palace. The ride itself was an experience, winding through narrow, cobblestone streets and offering glimpses of Sintra's stunning scenery. As we approached the palace, I couldn't help but gasp. Perched atop a hill, it looked like something out of a Disney movie, with its vibrant colors and whimsical architecture.
The National Palace of Pena was an absolute feast for the eyes. The mix of architectural styles – Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, and Moorish – was simply breathtaking. We wandered through the opulent rooms, marveling at the intricate details and rich history. Sophie was particularly fascinated by the sundial cannon, peppering me with questions about how it worked. Hans, meanwhile, was busy snapping photos, trying to capture the palace's grandeur. The views from the terraces were simply stunning, stretching out over the Sintra hills and all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. Despite the crowds, we managed to find a few quiet spots to soak it all in. I couldn't help but think how lucky we were to be experiencing this magical place together. The vibrant colours of the Palace against the backdrop of the lush green hills were a sight to behold, making me feel like I was walking through a living postcard. I learned that the palace is considered one of the seven wonders of Portugal. No wonder!
Sintra is a place where history, architecture, and nature intertwine to create an unforgettable experience.
After exploring Pena Palace, we decided to take a leisurely stroll through Pena Park. The park itself is a sprawling wonderland of exotic trees, hidden grottoes, and winding paths. We stumbled upon a charming little cafe where we stopped for a quick snack and a refreshing drink. Sophie, of course, opted for an ice cream, while Hans and I shared a *pastel de nata*. It was the perfect way to recharge before our next adventure. Walking through the park, I felt a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me. The air was fresh and clean, and the sounds of nature filled our ears. It was a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
Next on our list was the Chalet of the Countess of Edla. This hidden gem, tucked away in the forest, was built by King Ferdinand II for his second wife, Elise Hensler, the Countess of Edla. Inspired by Swiss mountain chalets, it's a charming and romantic retreat, covered in cork. I was particularly drawn to the story of their love, a tale of romance, betrayal, and exile. The chalet itself was beautiful, with its intricate details and cozy atmosphere. We wandered through the rooms, imagining what life must have been like for the Countess. The gardens surrounding the chalet were equally enchanting, with winding paths, hidden benches, and stunning views. Sophie loved exploring the grounds, pretending to be a princess in her own fairytale. The Chalet felt like a secret escape, a place where love and beauty reigned supreme. It was fascinating to learn that the Countess was a talented singer and actress, and that the chalet was a reflection of her artistic spirit.
Uncover the romantic charm of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a historical landmark with stunning architecture and beautiful gardens in Sintra, Portugal.
As the afternoon wore on, our stomachs started to rumble again. We decided to head back into town for lunch. Based on a recommendation from a local, we chose Adega do Saloio, a traditional Portuguese restaurant. It was a bit of a walk, but the promise of authentic cuisine kept us going. When we arrived, we were greeted by a cozy and rustic atmosphere. The menu was filled with tempting options, but we ultimately decided to share a few dishes. We ordered the grilled octopus, the veal stew, and a plate of local cheeses. Everything was delicious, bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection. Sophie, who's usually a picky eater, even tried the octopus and declared it not bad! High praise indeed. Hans and I savored every bite, washing it down with a glass of local wine. It was the perfect way to refuel after a long day of exploring. I was particularly impressed by the generous portions and the reasonable prices. It's always a pleasure to find a restaurant that offers both quality and value.
Savor authentic Portuguese flavors at Adega do Saloio in Sintra - where tradition meets taste in every dish.
With our bellies full and our hearts content, we decided to treat ourselves to a drink at Casa do Fauno, a medieval-themed bar I had read about. It sounded quirky and fun, and I knew Sophie would love it. When we arrived, we were immediately transported to another world. The bar was decorated with swords, shields, and other medieval paraphernalia. The bartenders were dressed in period costumes, and the music was appropriately Celtic. Sophie was in heaven, running around and examining all the artifacts. Hans and I ordered a couple of local beers and settled into a cozy corner. We watched as Sophie played with the other children, her laughter echoing through the bar. It was a truly magical experience, a perfect end to a perfect day. The bar also had a magick/occult shop which made it all the more interesting. Apparently, there's live music on Saturday nights, so we might have to come back!
Experience the charm of Casa do Fauno in Sintra, where delightful drinks and a cozy bookstore create the perfect retreat for literary lovers and social butterflies alike.
For dinner, we opted for Dom Pipas, a restaurant known for its traditional Portuguese fare and cozy atmosphere. We started with the grilled prawns, which were succulent and flavorful. For our main courses, Hans chose the roasted lamb, Sophie had the salmon, and I went with the seafood cataplana, a rich and flavorful stew. Each dish was a testament to the restaurant's commitment to quality and tradition. The staff was incredibly friendly, making us feel right at home. As we savored our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. We had explored fairytale palaces, wandered through enchanted forests, and indulged in delicious cuisine. Sintra had truly captured our hearts, and we couldn't wait to see what tomorrow would bring.
Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Dom Pipas in Sintra - where flavor meets tradition in a cozy atmosphere.
As we walked back to our hotel, Sintra Marmoris Camelia, under the starlit sky, I couldn't help but feel grateful for these moments. Traveling with family isn't always easy, but it's always worth it. Sharing these experiences with Hans and Sophie, creating memories that will last a lifetime, is what truly matters. And as I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but smile, already anticipating our adventures tomorrow at the Sintra Science Workshop and the Museu de História Natural de Sintra.

Discover the charm of Sintra at Sintra Marmoris Camelia, where comfort meets culture in a perfect blend for travelers seeking relaxation and exploration.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore Sintra’s more scientific side, with a visit to the Sintra Science Workshop and the Natural History Museum. Sophie is particularly excited about the Science Workshop; she’s always been a curious little scientist. I, on the other hand, am looking forward to learning more about the region’s natural history. We’ll start our day with breakfast at Taverna do Município, followed by lunch at A Lanterna. Dinner will be at Curral dos Caprinos, which I've heard has fantastic local dishes. And of course, we can't leave Sintra without picking up some *queijadas* from Queijadas da Sapa. It’s going to be another day filled with discovery and delicious food, and I can’t wait!
Join us on a family journey to Sintra, Portugal, where culture and nature collide, offering enchanting palaces, lush gardens, and unforgettable memories.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: English Language Teacher at a Volkshochschule
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Country: Germany
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Age: 38
Hi, I'm Jennifer, a thirty-something expat living in Berlin with my German husband and our daughter. Originally from a small town in the USA, I've always had a passion for travel and exploring new cultures. Teaching English is my profession, but travel blogging is my passion. I share my family's travel adventures, offering practical tips, cultural insights, and personal stories to inspire your own journeys. Join me as we discover the hidden gems of Europe and beyond!
- History
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National Palace of Pena
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Chalet of the Countess of Edla
Uncover the romantic charm of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a historical landmark with stunning architecture and beautiful gardens in Sintra, Portugal.
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Metamorphosis
Experience exquisite Portuguese cuisine at Metamorphosis in Sintra - where tradition meets modern flavors.
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Adega do Saloio
Savor authentic Portuguese flavors at Adega do Saloio in Sintra - where tradition meets taste in every dish.
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Dom Pipas
Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Dom Pipas in Sintra - where flavor meets tradition in a cozy atmosphere.
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Casa do Fauno
Experience the charm of Casa do Fauno in Sintra, where delightful drinks and a cozy bookstore create the perfect retreat for literary lovers and social butterflies alike.