Solo Adventure in the Majestic Lysefjord

Last Day Musings on Lysefjord

As my Lysefjord adventure draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the incredible journey of the past nine days. This final day was a blend of serene observation and historical exploration, a fitting farewell to Norway's majestic landscapes. I embraced the opportunity to soak in the panoramic views and delve into the region's rich heritage, creating memories that I know will stay with me long after I've returned to Helsinki.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at the Lysefjorden Tourist Cabin. The simple rooms and dormitory-style accommodations fostered a sense of community among the guests, and the complimentary breakfast was the perfect fuel for a day of exploration. I savored the traditional Norwegian fare, a mix of hearty breads, cheeses, and smoked fish, while chatting with fellow travelers about their own adventures in the region. It was a comforting start to what promised to be a day filled with discoveries. I made sure to take a mental note of the breakfast hours for future reference, should Markus and Aino ever join me on such adventure.

My first destination was Utsiktspunkt Lysefjorden, a scenic viewpoint offering breathtaking vistas of the fjord. The drive there was an experience in itself, winding through lush green landscapes dotted with charming Norwegian houses. Arriving at the viewpoint, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale and beauty of Lysefjord. The sun was shining, casting a golden glow on the water and the towering cliffs that framed the fjord. I spent a good hour simply taking in the view, snapping photos, and etching the scene into my memory. There's something profoundly calming about gazing out at such a vast and untouched landscape; it puts everything into perspective. I could almost feel the spirit of my Alaskan roots reconnecting with the Nordic landscape.


Discover stunning panoramic views of Lysefjord at Utsiktspunkt Lysefjorden, a must-visit scenic spot in Norway.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quiet moments of observation, allowing the landscape to speak for itself.

Next on my itinerary was a visit to Flørli, a roadless village steeped in history. The only way to reach Flørli is by ferry, and the boat ride itself was a scenic adventure. As we glided through the fjord, I marveled at the steep mountain walls, cascading waterfalls, and secluded farms clinging to the shoreline. It was easy to imagine the lives of the people who have called this remote corner of the world home for centuries. I even kept an eye out for seals, as suggested, but unfortunately, I didn't spot any.

Flørli is famous for its 4,444 steps, the world's longest wooden staircase, which ascend 740 meters alongside the old hydropower plant's water pipes. While the thought of climbing all those steps was daunting, I decided to tackle a portion of them, aiming to get a sense of the village's unique character and history. The stairs were built for the construction of the hydropower plant in the early 20th century, a testament to human ingenuity and perseverance. As I climbed, I imagined the workers carrying equipment up the steep incline, their lives intertwined with the rhythms of the fjord. I didn't quite make it to the top, but the views from the sections I conquered were well worth the effort. The village itself is a charming mix of old worker's houses, now mostly used as holiday homes, and the imposing structure of the old power station.
I paused for lunch at Flørli Cafe, located in the heart of the village. The cafe offered a simple but satisfying menu of traditional Norwegian dishes, and I opted for a hearty bowl of fish soup, a local specialty. While savoring my meal, I struck up a conversation with one of the locals, who shared stories about Flørli's past and its transformation from a bustling industrial community to a tranquil tourist destination. He spoke of the challenges of living in such a remote location but also of the deep connection to nature and the strong sense of community that bound the villagers together.


Discover Flørli Cafe: A delightful dining destination offering authentic Norwegian cuisine amidst stunning fjord landscapes.
Learning about Flørli's history was fascinating. The village was once a thriving power plant community, established in the early 1900s to harness the power of the Flørli River. The power plant played a crucial role in providing electricity to the region, and the village grew to include a school, shop, and post office. However, as larger power plants were built elsewhere, Flørli's importance gradually diminished, and the village was eventually abandoned. Today, Flørli is experiencing a revival as a tourist destination, attracting visitors with its unique history, stunning natural setting, and, of course, those famous 4,444 steps.

After Flørli, my next stop was Coop Marked Høle, a local grocery store where I needed to pick up a few essentials. It was a bit out of the way, but I wanted to experience a typical Norwegian small-town shop. The store was well-stocked with a variety of local and international products, and I enjoyed browsing the aisles and observing the everyday lives of the locals. I grabbed some Norwegian chocolates and a few snacks for the road, knowing that Aino would appreciate the treats when I returned home. The store's opening hours were quite convenient, staying open until 9 PM on weekdays. It reminded me of the small shops back in Palmer, Alaska, where community and convenience were equally valued.


Explore local flavors and international goods at Coop Marked Høle, a charming grocery store in the heart of Sandnes, Norway.
My final meal in Lysefjord was dinner at Kjerag Café & Restaurant (Øygardstøl), located near the starting point for the hike to Kjeragbolten. Although I didn't have time to hike to the boulder itself, I wanted to experience the stunning views from the restaurant, which sits 640 meters above Lysebotn. The drive up to Øygardstøl was breathtaking, with hairpin turns and panoramic vistas of the fjord. The restaurant itself was cozy and inviting, with large windows offering unparalleled views of the valley below. I savored a delicious meal while gazing out at the majestic cliffs and the tranquil fjord, feeling a sense of gratitude for the incredible experiences I had enjoyed during my time in Lysefjord. The Kjerag Cafe & Restaurant is opening in mid-May 2025, so it was fortunate that my trip was planned after that.


Experience exquisite Norwegian cuisine with stunning views at Kjerag Cafe & Restaurant in Lysebotn.
As I prepared to leave Lysefjord, I couldn't help but feel a sense of sadness that my adventure was coming to an end. This solo journey had been a perfect blend of adventure and contemplation, allowing me to connect with nature and reflect on my life's journey. From the breathtaking views of Preikestolen to the challenging hike to Kjeragbolten, from the tranquil boat rides through the fjord to the charming villages and welcoming locals, Lysefjord had captured my heart and soul. The memories I had made here would stay with me forever, a reminder of the power and beauty of the natural world. And who knows, maybe one day I'll return with Markus and Aino to share this incredible experience with them. It's definitely a place they would both love.

Tomorrow, I will be heading back to Helsinki, carrying with me the memories of this extraordinary solo adventure. Lysefjord, you will be missed.