A Solo Pilgrimage: Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Ancient Path

As my Kumano Kodo adventure draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the profound experiences of the past eleven days. It's remarkable how a solitary journey along these ancient paths can stir such deep emotions and bring clarity to thoughts that were once shrouded in the mists of everyday life. Today, the final day of my pilgrimage, was a blend of historical exploration, natural beauty, and quiet contemplation.

My morning began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. The cozy atmosphere and the promise of traditional Japanese fare were the perfect start to the day. It's a charming spot where you can savor local flavors while catching up on regional news. Fuelled up for the day, I set out to experience the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route.


Walk a section of the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, experience the spiritual heart of Japan, and explore serene paths lined with towering cedar trees.

The Daimon-saka path is steeped in history, dating back to the Heian period. As I walked along the 640-meter stretch, flanked by towering cedar trees and moss-covered stone steps, I felt a palpable sense of connection to the pilgrims who had walked this path centuries before me. The air was crisp, and the sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow on the ancient stones. I paused to admire the 800-year-old cedar trees, their presence a testament to the enduring spirit of this sacred route.

The path was uneven, and I was grateful for the sturdy hiking boots I'd packed. I was also thankful that I remembered to bring my camera as the scenery was simply stunning. The interplay of light and shadow, the vibrant green of the moss, and the sheer size of the cedar trees made for some truly memorable photographs. I even spotted a few deer along the way, their gentle presence adding to the magical atmosphere.

The beauty of the Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in the sense of peace and reflection it inspires.

After immersing myself in the serene ambiance of the Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route, I visited the Inabaneoji Shrine. Although my research indicates this shrine is located in Gifu, I found a smaller, local shrine along the Kumano Kodo route with the same name. It was a quiet, unassuming place, but it held a certain charm. I took a moment to offer a prayer for safe travels and good fortune, feeling a sense of gratitude for the journey I had undertaken. It's interesting to note that Inaba Shrine, wherever its location, is often associated with blessings of good fortune and health.


Experience the serene beauty and cultural significance of Inabaneoji Shrine, a must-visit Shinto site in the lush landscapes of Kamitonda.

For lunch, I stopped at Kakinoate, a charming sushi restaurant near the entrance of the Hayatama Taisha shrine. I had heard about their unique persimmon leaf-wrapped sushi, and I was eager to try it. I opted for the cured salmon sushi, and it was absolutely delicious. The persimmon leaves imparted a subtle aroma to the rice, and the salmon was incredibly fresh. The owners were friendly and welcoming, offering helpful tips for exploring the area.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

In the afternoon, I did some souvenir shopping at the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. Roadside stations are always a treasure trove of local goods, and this one was no exception. I picked up some Otonachi-cha tea, grown in the Fushiogami district, and a Minachi-gasa, a traditional cypress headpiece made by the last craftsman in the area. I also couldn’t resist buying some Kumano soda pop, made with local plums and oranges. I thought they would make lovely gifts for Markus and Aino, a taste of my journey to share with them back in Helsinki. I know Aino will be especially thrilled with the soda pop! It will be nice to bring back some authentic flavors of the region for them to enjoy.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As the day drew to a close, I enjoyed a final dinner at Tororoya. I indulged in their specialty, tororo-meshi, a yam-based dish that was both comforting and delicious. It was the perfect way to end my culinary explorations of the Kumano Kodo. I savored each bite, reflecting on the incredible flavors I had experienced throughout my journey. I found it interesting that Tororoya has multiple locations, even in Nagoya and Hamamatsu. It speaks to the popularity of this dish and the restaurant's commitment to quality.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

This solo pilgrimage has been more than just a hike; it has been a journey of self-discovery. The quiet solitude of the trails allowed me to reconnect with myself and reflect on my life in a way that I haven't been able to do in years. I feel refreshed, rejuvenated, and ready to return to Helsinki with a renewed sense of purpose. I am already looking forward to sharing my experiences with Markus and Aino.

Tomorrow, I will be heading back to Osaka to begin my journey home. While I am eager to see my family, I will also carry the memories of Kumano Kodo with me always. The spiritual resonance of the ancient trails, the kindness of the local people, and the stunning beauty of the natural landscapes will stay with me long after I leave this sacred place.

As I prepare to leave Japan, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to have experienced this incredible journey. The Kumano Kodo has touched my soul in a way that I never expected, and I know that I will carry its lessons with me always. I feel a sense of peace and contentment that I haven't felt in a long time, and I am eager to share this feeling with my loved ones back home. Perhaps one day, I will return to these ancient trails and walk them again, seeking solace and inspiration in their timeless beauty.