Family Adventure in the Loire Valley: Castles and Countryside

Adieu Loire Valley!

As our family adventure in the Loire Valley draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the incredible experiences we've shared over the past nine days. From the majestic châteaux to the charming villages and, of course, the exquisite food and wine, this region has truly captured our hearts. Today, our final day, was a perfect culmination of all that the Loire Valley has to offer, blending history, culture, and a touch of local charm.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Auberge Pom'Poire in Azay-le-Rideau. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong coffee filled the air, setting the perfect tone for our last day of exploration. Auberge Pom'Poire is truly a gem. The food celebrates the culinary heritage, and Emilie and Bastien Gillet are wonderful hosts.


Experience exquisite French cuisine at Auberge Pom'Poire in Azay-le-Rideau—a perfect blend of fine dining and cozy hospitality.
With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off to our first destination: Château Gaillard. Located in Normandy, a bit outside the Loire Valley, the drive itself was picturesque, winding through rolling hills and quaint French countryside. As we approached the castle, its imposing ruins perched high above the River Seine, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe. Richard the Lionheart, indeed, knew how to pick a location!


Explore the historical and natural beauty of Château Gaillard, a captivating castle in Amboise, France, featuring lush gardens and cultural events.
The history of Château Gaillard is as fascinating as its architecture. Built in the late 12th century by Richard the Lionheart, it was designed to protect Normandy from the French king Philip II. Its innovative design, featuring concentric fortifications and early machicolations, made it one of the most advanced castles of its time. Exploring the ruins with Katarzyna and Zofia, I imagined what life must have been like during the castle's heyday, with knights patrolling the walls and archers standing guard.

Zofia was particularly intrigued by the story of how the castle was eventually captured by the French in 1204. Apparently, the French soldiers found a way into the inner bailey through the latrines, a rather unglamorous end for such a formidable fortress. As we walked along the ramparts, the views of the Seine River and the surrounding countryside were simply breathtaking. It was easy to see why Richard the Lionheart chose this spot for his stronghold.

“The journey, not the destination, matters.”

After immersing ourselves in the medieval history of Château Gaillard, we drove back towards the Loire Valley to Château & Thermes de Saint-Denis-sur-Loire. This château offered a completely different experience, blending history with the tranquility of its thermal springs. The site has been known for its thermal waters since ancient times, with evidence suggesting that the Celts considered it a sacred site. Later, during the Renaissance, the French royal court, including Catherine de Medici, frequented the springs for their healing properties.


Experience the allure of the Château & Thermes de Saint-Denis sur Loire, a historic castle offering stunning gardens and rejuvenating thermal baths in the heart of France.
The château itself has a rich history, dating back to the 12th century. Over the centuries, it has been expanded and transformed, reflecting various architectural styles, from medieval to Renaissance to neoclassical. As we strolled through the gardens, which are currently undergoing restoration to their original Renaissance design, we admired the terraces, canals, and lush greenery. The owners have been working for the last 20 years to restore the gardens, but pyrale are attacking the buxus that have been replanted, which is threatening the grounds.

Katarzyna was particularly interested in the history of the thermal springs. We learned that in the 16th century, King Henri II and his son Henri III visited Saint-Denis-les-Fontaines to take the waters. Even today, the village is known for its thermal history, with the château and gardens forming part of the vast Domaine des Thermes de Saint-Denis-sur-Loire. The site exudes tranquility and peace, with the gentle sound of water flowing through the canals and the scent of blooming flowers filling the air.

After our visit to Château & Thermes de Saint-Denis-sur-Loire, we stopped at La Boîte A Couture, a charming little shop in Saint-Denis-sur-Loire. Katarzyna, who has a keen interest in sewing and embroidery, was immediately drawn to the shop's quaint atmosphere and its collection of fabrics, threads, and vintage sewing patterns. The shop owner was incredibly friendly and helpful, sharing stories about the local textile industry and offering tips on traditional French sewing techniques. The shop is one of many that offer couture and retouching services in the area.


Discover the elegance of lingerie and personalized clothing services at La Boîte A Couture in Joinville.
Katarzyna ended up buying a beautiful piece of Loire Valley silk and a vintage pattern for a traditional French dress. I could see the excitement in her eyes as she imagined creating her own unique piece of clothing, inspired by the region's rich cultural heritage. Zofia, not to be left out, picked up a small sewing kit and a book on beginner's embroidery, eager to learn a new skill.

For lunch, we had a delightful meal at Restaurant du Château de Rochecotte. The setting was stunning, with panoramic views of the Loire Valley. The restaurant itself is located in an elegant château dating back to the 18th century, and the ambiance was both refined and welcoming. We chose to dine on the terrace, soaking in the beautiful scenery and enjoying the warm spring sunshine.


Experience exquisite haute French cuisine at Restaurant du Château de Rochecotte in Coteaux-sur-Loire – a true culinary gem amidst stunning landscapes.
The food was exquisite, a perfect blend of traditional French cuisine with modern culinary techniques. I started with the fricassée d'anguille fumée, a dish that was both rich and flavorful. Katarzyna opted for the classic coq au vin, while Zofia enjoyed a simple but delicious steak frites. The staff and service were top notch and while the food wasn't as high-end as expected, we still enjoyed our meal.

As we savored our lunch, we reminisced about our favorite moments from the trip. Zofia loved exploring the Château de Chambord, while Katarzyna was fascinated by the gardens of Villandry. For me, it was the combination of history, culture, and natural beauty that made the Loire Valley so special. The area is known for its exceptional terroir, and chefs creatively revisit local specialties.

Our final dinner in the Loire Valley was at Restaurant Le Château de Pray, a Michelin-starred establishment near Amboise. The restaurant is housed in a magnificent medieval castle, complete with massive towers and elegant salons. The atmosphere was grand yet intimate, with large velvet curtains, family crests, and an imposing fireplace.


Experience exquisite French cuisine and breathtaking views at Restaurant Le Château de Pray in Amboise.
Chef Arnaud Philippon's cuisine was nothing short of spectacular. Each dish was a work of art, showcasing the region's finest seasonal ingredients. We opted for the tasting menu, which included a variety of innovative and flavorful creations. From the delicate amuse-bouche to the decadent dessert, every course was a culinary masterpiece. The service was impeccable, with the wait staff being friendly, knowledgeable, and attentive.

As we savored our final meal, we raised a glass to the Loire Valley, to the memories we had made, and to the adventures that lie ahead. The Loire Valley has a Michelin star, and two toques in the Gault et Millau guide. While some recent reviews complain about the quality and service, our experience was wonderful.

As our family adventure in the Loire Valley comes to an end, I am filled with gratitude for the experiences we've shared and the memories we've created. This region, with its rich history, stunning landscapes, and exquisite cuisine, has truly captured our hearts. As we prepare to drive back to Potsdam tomorrow, I know that we will carry a piece of the Loire Valley with us, always cherishing the time we spent together in this magical place.

The Loire Valley is more than just a destination; it's an experience that nourishes the soul and strengthens the bonds of family. Until next time, adieu Loire Valley!