Exploring the Peaks of Peru: A Journey to Huascaran National Park

Echoes of the Past

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Wayta - El Chef Andino in Huaraz. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all eager to start their day with a taste of authentic Peruvian cuisine. I opted for the *sopa criolla*, a flavorful broth filled with vegetables and meat, while Jean-Pierre chose the *lomo saltado*, a classic stir-fry dish. The food was delicious, and the service was warm and welcoming. It was the perfect way to fuel up for our adventure.

After breakfast, we set off to Sitio Arqueológico TUMSHUKAYKO. Located a short distance from Caraz, this site dates back to around 2000 BCE, offering a glimpse into the lives of those who inhabited this region long before the Incas. The bus ride there was an experience in itself, winding through the stunning landscapes of the Huaylas Valley.

As we approached Tumshukayko, the site revealed itself as a series of platforms and terraces, remnants of a once-grand ceremonial center. The structure, built with impressive stonework, stands as a testament to the ingenuity and skill of its builders. Walking through the site, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and wonder. It's incredible to think that people lived and thrived here thousands of years ago.

The site itself is located on the right bank of the Llullán River, offering panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca. The air was crisp and clean, and the silence was broken only by the occasional chirping of birds. We spent several hours exploring the site, marveling at the intricate carvings and the sheer scale of the construction. It's clear that Tumshukayko was once a place of great importance, a hub of cultural and religious activity.

Recent investigations suggest that the site dates back to the Late Preceramic period, around 2000 BCE, with evidence of later occupation by the Recuay culture around 300 BCE to 300 CE. The earliest structures were likely built between the occupation of La Galgada (3000–2000 BCE) and the era of the Chavín culture (1200–300 BCE). The artistic production resembles many of those found at the Moxeke complex in the Casma Valley.

According to historical accounts, the Italian explorer Antonio Raimondi described the location as a hill built with huge stone walls in 1873. Later, in 1919, Dr. Julio C. Tello confirmed this description, noting the platforms, terraces, and interior aisles. Work was done around 1990 to clear debris from the site.

The fine stonework forms a circular structure with platforms, terraces, stairways, and semi-circular walls. The outside walls are decorated with geometrical sculptures and carvings. The structure extends approximately 300 meters in diameter and 25 meters in elevation. The most outstanding artifacts are the stone heads (*cabezas clavas*) and triangular stones, suggesting a connection to the early Chavín culture.

As I walked around, I imagined the lives of the people who once called this place home. What were their beliefs? What were their daily routines? What challenges did they face? These questions swirled in my mind, adding a layer of depth to the already captivating experience. Jean-Pierre was equally fascinated, snapping photos and sharing his own reflections on the site's significance.

After our historical immersion, our stomachs began to rumble. It was time for lunch! We headed to Trivio Resto Bar, a popular spot in Huaraz known for its delicious Peruvian food and lively atmosphere. The restaurant was bustling with climbers and tourists, all eager to refuel after their adventures. I ordered the Thai salad, while Jean-Pierre opted for a hearty burrito. The food was excellent, and the service was prompt and friendly. It was the perfect place to relax and recharge.

To truly appreciate a place, one must not only see its beauty but also understand its history.

In the late afternoon, we decided to indulge in another aspect of Peruvian culture: its nightlife. We ventured to Kuya Kuya Coctelería Profesional Novoandina - Huaraz, a bar known for its innovative cocktails and vibrant atmosphere. The bar was dimly lit and filled with music, creating a cozy and inviting ambiance. I ordered a *pisco sour*, a classic Peruvian cocktail, while Jean-Pierre tried a local craft beer. The drinks were expertly crafted, and the atmosphere was electric. It was the perfect way to unwind and soak in the local culture.

The bartender was incredibly friendly, sharing stories about the bar's history and the inspiration behind the cocktails. He explained that Kuya Kuya focuses on using local ingredients and traditional techniques to create unique and flavorful drinks. It was fascinating to learn about the bar's commitment to showcasing the best of Peruvian culture.

As the evening wore on, we struck up conversations with other patrons, sharing travel stories and laughter. It was heartwarming to connect with people from different corners of the world, united by our shared love of travel and adventure. I even practiced my Spanish with a local couple, who were patient and encouraging. It's moments like these that make travel so enriching and rewarding.

For dinner, we chose El Fogón, a restaurant known for its traditional Peruvian dishes and cozy ambiance. The restaurant was a bit hidden, located upstairs and not easily visible from the street, but it was well worth the effort to find. As we climbed the stairs, the aroma of delicious food filled the air, building our anticipation.

The dining room was warm and inviting, with exposed brick walls and soft lighting. We were seated at a table by the window, offering a stunning view of the Cordillera Blanca in the distance. I ordered the *ají de gallina*, a creamy chicken stew, while Jean-Pierre chose the *trucha*, a grilled trout. The food was absolutely divine, bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection.

The service at El Fogón was exceptional. Our waiter was attentive and knowledgeable, offering recommendations and sharing insights into the local cuisine. He explained that El Fogón prides itself on using fresh, locally sourced ingredients to create authentic Peruvian dishes. It was clear that the restaurant was passionate about preserving and celebrating the culinary heritage of the region.

As we savored our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. We had explored an ancient archaeological site, savored delicious Peruvian cuisine, and experienced the vibrant nightlife of Huaraz. It was a day filled with history, culture, and connection.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, we're planning to visit Campo Santo Yungay and explore more of Huascarán National Park. We'll start our day with breakfast at Bosque Del Prado, followed by lunch at PAKTA Restaurante and dinner at Chilli Heaven. We also plan to do a bit of shopping at Boutique miracle. I'm excited to continue our exploration of this beautiful region and share our experiences with you all.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we took a moment to gaze at the stars. The night sky in Huascarán National Park is simply breathtaking, with countless stars twinkling in the inky blackness. It was a perfect ending to a perfect day.

As I reflect on our experiences today, I'm reminded of the importance of preserving and celebrating our cultural heritage. Tumshukayko stands as a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of the people who came before us, and it's our responsibility to ensure that their stories are not forgotten. By exploring these ancient sites, savoring local cuisine, and connecting with the local community, we can gain a deeper understanding of the world around us and our place within it.

Until tomorrow, dear readers! À bientôt!