Exploring the Wild Beauty of Snaefellsnes Peninsula with Jean-Pierre

Day 6: Seeking Wishes on Holy Ground and Tracing Viking Paths: A Day of Icelandic Sagas

Explore Snaefellsnes' sacred Helgafell, make wishes, and walk the legendary Berserkjahraun lava field. A day of Icelandic history and beauty.

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Echoes of Sagas and Whispers of Wishes


Today, the winds of Snaefellsnes seemed to carry whispers of ancient tales and the promise of untold wishes. Jean-Pierre and I embarked on a journey that felt like stepping directly into the Icelandic sagas, a blend of spiritual seeking and historical exploration that resonated deeply with my Malagasy soul. It’s fascinating how stories, no matter where they originate, connect us to something larger than ourselves.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at FRISTA Food Truck in Arnarstapi. The wind was sharp, but the promise of warm fish and chips lured us out of our cozy car. I opted for the classic fish and chips, while Jean-Pierre, ever the adventurous one, tried a local soda alongside his meal. Eating there, surrounded by the dramatic cliffs and basalt columns Arnarstapi is known for, was a great experience. The fresh, crispy fish was the perfect start to a day filled with exploration. I made a mental note to try and recreate this crispy batter back in Montreal, perhaps adding a hint of vanilla to remind me of home.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off towards Helgafell, the 'holy mountain.' As we drove, I shared with Jean-Pierre the tales I'd read about Þórólfr Mostrarskegg, the first settler who built a temple to Thor there. I felt a sense of anticipation building within me.

The climb up Helgafell was gentle, a welcome change after some of the more strenuous hikes we've done this trip. The wind whipped around us, carrying the scent of the sea and the earth. As we ascended, I remembered the stories I read about Guðrún Ósvífrsdóttir, the heroine from the Laxdæla Saga, who spent her last days near this sacred mountain. It's said she is buried at the foot of Helgafell and that the mountain is sacred. I found myself reflecting on her life, her loves, and her losses, a poignant reminder of the complexities of the human experience.

Reaching the summit, I was struck by the panoramic view of Breiðafjörður Bay. The landscape was breathtaking, a tapestry of land and sea stretching out before us. Following tradition, I faced east, cleared my mind, and made three wishes. I won't reveal them, of course, but I can say they were a mix of personal hopes, dreams for our travels, and a longing for peace in the world. The whole experience felt very spiritual and special.

To stand on Helgafell is to stand at a crossroads of history, mythology, and personal aspiration, where the echoes of the past mingle with the hopes for the future.


Explore Helgafell, a breathtaking mountain peak in Iceland known for stunning views and hiking adventures, perfect for nature enthusiasts and families alike.
Explore Helgafell, a breathtaking mountain peak in Iceland known for stunning views and hiking adventures, perfect for nature enthusiasts and families alike.

After descending Helgafell, we drove towards Berserkjahraun, the lava field forged by the sweat and blood of two Swedish berserkers. As we approached, the landscape transformed into a surreal expanse of moss-covered lava formations. The stark contrast between the black lava and the vibrant green moss was mesmerizing, a testament to nature's resilience and artistry.

I recounted to Jean-Pierre the saga of the two berserkers who were tasked with clearing a path through the lava field in exchange for a farmer's daughter's hand in marriage. The story is a mix of strength, love, betrayal, and murder. It is hard to believe that the two berserkers managed to complete the path quite quickly. But instead of keeping his promise, Víga-Styr had the two Swedes killed and buried near the path. Walking along the path they supposedly built, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and melancholy.

Explore the breathtaking landscapes of Berserkjahraun, a captivating mountain peak in Iceland offering stunning views and unforgettable hiking experiences.
Explore the breathtaking landscapes of Berserkjahraun, a captivating mountain peak in Iceland offering stunning views and unforgettable hiking experiences.

We spent a long time exploring Berserkjahraun, scrambling over the lava rocks, admiring the unique formations, and imagining the lives of those who came before us. I tried to picture the two berserkers, their determination, their strength, and their tragic fate. It was a powerful reminder of the human cost of ambition and the enduring power of stories.

Before heading to dinner, we made a quick stop at Bónus, the local supermarket. It's always interesting to see what the locals buy and how the supermarkets are different from those back home in Montreal. We picked up some snacks for the road and a few Icelandic treats to bring back as souvenirs.

For lunch, we stopped at Skipper Restaurant in Stykkishólmur. I had heard great things about their seafood. The restaurant has a cozy atmosphere, and the menu was filled with tempting options. Jean-Pierre opted for the daily special, while I chose the traditional Icelandic fish soup. The soup was creamy, flavorful, and filled with chunks of fresh fish. It was the perfect comfort food after a day of exploring in the chilly Icelandic air.

Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Skipper Restaurant in Stykkishólmur, where fresh seafood meets local flavors in a cozy setting.
Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Skipper Restaurant in Stykkishólmur, where fresh seafood meets local flavors in a cozy setting.

As evening approached, we made our way to Grundarfjörður for dinner at Mæstro - Street food. The town was charming, nestled between the mountains and the sea. Mæstro had a vibrant atmosphere, and the aroma of grilled food filled the air. I decided to try the lamb hot dog, a local specialty, while Jean-Pierre went for the fish tacos. The lamb hot dog was surprisingly delicious, a unique blend of flavors that I thoroughly enjoyed. Jean-Pierre raved about his fish tacos, declaring them the best he'd ever had.

Discover authentic Icelandic street food at Mæstro in Grundarfjörður – a culinary gem surrounded by stunning landscapes.
Discover authentic Icelandic street food at Mæstro in Grundarfjörður – a culinary gem surrounded by stunning landscapes.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much I appreciate these moments of connection, both with the land and with the stories it holds. Iceland, with its dramatic landscapes and rich cultural heritage, has a way of drawing you in, of making you feel like you're part of something ancient and profound. As a translator, I find these experiences invaluable, as they deepen my understanding of different cultures and perspectives. And as a travel blogger, I feel a responsibility to share these stories, to inspire others to explore the world with curiosity and respect.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Sönghellir Cave and Rauðhóll (Snæfellsnes), and perhaps enjoy a drink at Hj á Góðu Fólki. I am looking forward to more adventures on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.

As we drove back to our accommodation, the sky was ablaze with the colors of the setting sun. The landscape was bathed in a golden light, casting long shadows across the lava fields and mountains. I leaned my head against the window, feeling a sense of peace and gratitude. Today, we had not only witnessed the beauty of Snaefellsnes but had also touched its soul.
Go to day 5 Embracing Iceland's Mystical Coastline: A Day of Legends and Natural Wonders
Go to day 7 Echoes of the Past and Volcanic Views: Exploring Snaefellsnes
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Exploring the Wild Beauty of Snaefellsnes Peninsula with Jean-Pierre

Embark on a sustainable journey through Iceland's Snaefellsnes Peninsula, exploring dramatic landscapes and unique culture with eco-friendly insights.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Marie Rakotomalala
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Freelance Translator and Travel Blogger
  • Country icon Country: Canada
  • Age icon Age: 29

Bonjour and Salama! I'm Marie, a freelance translator and travel blogger originally from the beautiful island of Madagascar, now living in Montreal with my wonderful husband, Jean-Pierre. My blog, Evendo, is my passion project where I share my adventures and insights from around the world. I focus on sustainable travel, cultural immersion, and discovering those hidden gems that offer an authentic travel experience. I believe travel is more than just ticking off destinations; it's about connecting with people, respecting cultures, and leaving a positive impact on the places we visit. Join me as I explore the world, one meaningful journey at a time!

Interests:
  • Linguistics
  • Cultural anthropology
  • Sustainable tourism
  • Wildlife conservation
  • Culinary arts
More about Marie Rakotomalala

Explore locations from this diary

  • Helgafell

    Explore Helgafell, a breathtaking mountain peak in Iceland known for stunning views and hiking adventures, perfect for nature enthusiasts and families alike.

  • Berserkjahraun

    Explore the breathtaking landscapes of Berserkjahraun, a captivating mountain peak in Iceland offering stunning views and unforgettable hiking experiences.

  • FRISTA Food Truck Arnarstapi

    Experience delicious meals at FRISTA Food Truck in Arnarstapi, where stunning views meet exceptional flavors on your Icelandic adventure.

  • Skipper Restaurant

    Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Skipper Restaurant in Stykkishólmur, where fresh seafood meets local flavors in a cozy setting.

  • Mæstro - Street food

    Discover authentic Icelandic street food at Mæstro in Grundarfjörður – a culinary gem surrounded by stunning landscapes.

  • Bónus

    Explore the flavors of Iceland at Bónus, Stykkishólmur's favorite discount supermarket for tourists and locals alike.

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