Exploring the Untamed Wilderness of Iceland's Hornstrandir

Chasing Waterfalls and Candlelight in Ísafjörður

Today was a beautiful blend of relaxation, exploration, and delightful discoveries, perfectly capturing the essence of Iceland's serene charm. From the soothing warmth of a remote thermal pool to the cozy ambiance of a candlelit shop, every moment felt like a cherished memory in the making. David and I embraced the day with open hearts, ready to soak in the unique experiences that the Westfjords had to offer.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Siver kebab. Though the name might suggest otherwise, it offered a surprisingly diverse menu that fueled us up for the adventures ahead. I opted for a traditional Icelandic pastry, while David enjoyed a savory kebab, both of which were delicious and satisfying. It's funny how sometimes the most unassuming places can offer the most delightful culinary surprises!

With our appetites sated, we set out for Krossneslaug, a geothermal pool nestled in the remote Strandir region. The drive itself was an adventure, with winding roads offering breathtaking views of the rugged coastline and snow-dusted mountains. As we approached the pool, the landscape transformed into a surreal panorama of black sand beaches and icy waters, making the anticipation even greater. Unfortunately, Krossneslaug is only accessible from mid-May to the end of August. Due to its northern position and icy roads for much of the year, this is considered the best time to visit the Westfjords altogether. It was closed for the winter, which was a bit of a disappointment, but we understood that some of Iceland's most beautiful spots are only accessible during certain times of the year.


Discover the soothing geothermal waters of Krossneslaug, a thermal bath in Árnes, Iceland, surrounded by stunning coastal landscapes.

Instead, we decided to immerse ourselves in the local culture and headed to Ísafjörður, where we planned to explore the town's charming shops and restaurants. Our first stop was Kertahúsið Candle House. The shop was a beacon of warmth and light, filled with an array of handmade candles inspired by Icelandic nature and architecture. I was immediately drawn to the delicate craftsmanship and the stories behind each candle. We even learned that they offer scented candle workshops using handpicked herbs, which sounds like a delightful experience for a future visit.


Explore Kertahúsið Candle House in Ísafjörður for handcrafted candles and unique Icelandic gifts that embody the spirit of your travels.

The best journeys answer questions that in the beginning, you didn't even think to ask.

We spent a good hour browsing the shop, admiring the unique designs and chatting with the friendly owners. I couldn't resist purchasing a few candles shaped like traditional Westfjords houses, perfect mementos to remind us of our time here. David, ever the history enthusiast, picked out a candle shaped like a lighthouse, a nod to Iceland's rich maritime heritage. It's these small, personal touches that make our travels so special and memorable.

For lunch, we ventured to Faktorshus in Haestikaupstadur. The restaurant is housed in a beautifully restored historic building, adding to its charm and character. We were immediately captivated by the warm and inviting atmosphere, as well as the stunning views of the surrounding fjords and mountains. The menu featured a selection of locally sourced ingredients, showcasing the region's culinary heritage. I opted for a seafood stew, while David chose a hearty lamb dish, both of which were bursting with flavor and perfectly cooked. The attentive staff shared their passion for Icelandic food, enhancing our dining experience and making us feel like honored guests.


Savor authentic Icelandic flavors at Faktorshus in Ísafjörður – where local ingredients meet culinary creativity.

After lunch, we took a leisurely stroll through Ísafjörður, soaking in the town's unique ambiance. The colorful houses, the bustling harbor, and the friendly locals all contributed to a sense of warmth and community. We stumbled upon a local art gallery, showcasing the works of talented Icelandic artists. I was particularly drawn to a series of landscape paintings, capturing the raw beauty of the Westfjords in vivid detail. David, on the other hand, was fascinated by a collection of intricate wood carvings, reflecting Iceland's rich artistic traditions.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Jötunn restaurant for dinner. The restaurant is nestled in an old barn with stunning views of Ísafjörður, creating a cozy and intimate setting. We had heard rave reviews about their fresh fish, sushi, and lamb dishes, all made with local ingredients. The reviews did not lie. We decided to share a sushi platter, featuring unique combinations of flavors that were both inventive and delicious. David, being a fan of lamb, ordered a perfectly cooked lamb dish, while I savored a delectable sushi creation unique to the region. The chef's skills were evident in every bite, and the exceptional service made the evening even more enjoyable.


Discover Jötunn Restaurant: A must-visit culinary destination in Ísafjörður offering exquisite Icelandic-style sushi amidst stunning landscapes.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much we had experienced in such a short amount of time. From the initial disappointment of a closed thermal pool to the delightful discoveries of local crafts and culinary gems, every moment had contributed to a rich and fulfilling travel experience. It's these unexpected twists and turns that often lead to the most memorable adventures, reminding us to embrace the unknown and to appreciate the beauty of the present moment.

Tomorrow marks the final day of our adventure in Hornstrandir. We plan to revisit Hornstrandir [If weather permits] and soak in the last moments of this untouched wilderness before heading back to Reykjavik. We'll also be having breakfast at Víkurskálin Bolungarvík, lunch at Húsið, and dinner at Logn, restaurant & bar. If we have time, we may visit Skútinn bar [If open].

Though our time in Hornstrandir is coming to an end, the memories and experiences we've gathered will stay with us long after we've left. This trip has been a reminder of the importance of connecting with nature, embracing local culture, and cherishing the simple joys of life. As we prepare for our journey back home, I feel grateful for the opportunity to have explored this remote and stunning corner of the world, and I look forward to sharing more of our adventures with you.

I am also grateful for David, who is always by my side, ready to share new adventures with me, and who is always keen to try new food and experience new cultures.