Family Adventure in Skaftafell, Iceland

A Day of Icelandic Wonders

Today was nothing short of spectacular. Skaftafell has completely stolen my heart with its dramatic landscapes and raw natural beauty. From cascading waterfalls to the imposing presence of a glacier, it was a day filled with awe-inspiring sights and unforgettable experiences. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel and share these adventures.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Cafe Munkar. I opted for a traditional Icelandic pastry and a strong coffee, which was exactly what I needed to fuel up for our hike to Svartifoss. Lena and Sophie were excited, though Sophie was more interested in the pastries than the hike itself, which is understandable for a six-year-old. Plus, I may have forgotten the raincoat at our cabin, but I wasn’t going to let that dampen our spirits. We were ready to embrace whatever the Icelandic weather threw our way. The forecast called for a high of 6°C (43°F) and a chance of rain. Perfect hiking weather, right? Well, maybe not perfect, but definitely manageable with the right gear.


The Svartifoss Trail was our first adventure of the day. The trail starts near the Skaftafell Visitor Center and is well-marked. The initial stretch led us through the campground, after which we turned right to begin our ascent. The climb was a bit steep at first, and I found myself slightly winded, a reminder that my cycling along the Neckar River in Heidelberg isn't quite the same as mountain hiking. Sophie, however, seemed to have endless energy, skipping ahead and pointing out every interesting rock and flower she spotted. Lena and I exchanged amused glances, marveling at our daughter's boundless enthusiasm. The Svartifoss Trail is about 3.2 km. The well-maintained path offers a rewarding experience, unveiling not just Svartifoss but also Þjofafoss, Hundafoss, and Magnusarfoss waterfalls.

Sometimes, the most breathtaking views come after the toughest climbs.

As we continued our ascent, the views became increasingly stunning. We paused at a viewpoint above Hundafoss waterfall, which, while not as famous as Svartifoss, was beautiful in its own right. The cascading water plunged into the ravine below, creating a mesmerizing display of nature's power. From there, we continued towards Svartifoss, eager to see the iconic waterfall up close. The trail meandered through a lush forest, with the sound of rushing water growing louder with each step. The beauty of the columnar rocks framing Svartifoss is one of the highlights of Skaftafell.


Finally, we reached Svartifoss, and it was even more impressive than I had imagined.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Svartifoss Trail, where stunning landscapes and nature's artistry converge in Vatnajökull National Park.

The waterfall cascaded down a cliff framed by dark basalt columns, creating a striking contrast between the white water and the black rock. The unique rock formations were formed by the slow cooling of lava flows, resulting in the hexagonal shapes that now adorn the waterfall. We spent a good while simply admiring the view, taking photos, and soaking in the atmosphere. Sophie was fascinated by the waterfall, asking endless questions about how it was formed and where the water came from. I did my best to answer, drawing on my limited knowledge of geology and making up a few stories along the way. I think she knew I was improvising, but she didn't seem to mind.


After Svartifoss, we decided to continue our hike to Sjónarnípa viewpoint. The trail climbed steadily upwards, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. From Sjónarnípa, we could see the vast expanse of the Skaftafell Glacier, its icy surface shimmering in the sunlight. The views were simply breathtaking, and we felt a sense of accomplishment knowing that we had climbed so high. The wide views from Sjónskeri allow you to see in all directions when the weather is good.


As we made our way back down, we passed by the old turf house at Sel. It was a fascinating glimpse into Iceland's past, and we took some time to explore the traditional building and imagine what life must have been like for the people who once lived there. The Svartifoss Trail offers a unique experience at any time of the year. The trail is mostly well-compacted soil or mats.


By lunchtime, we were all feeling quite hungry, so we headed to Systrakaffi for a well-deserved meal. This family-run restaurant is known for its diverse menu, featuring both international and local dishes. I opted for the Arctic Char, while Lena chose a lamb dish, and Sophie, of course, went for pizza. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. It was the perfect place to relax and refuel after our morning hike.


In the afternoon, we decided to explore the Skaftafell Glacier. I was eager to get up close and personal with one of Iceland's most impressive natural wonders. While there are many options for guided glacier tours, we opted for a shorter, family-friendly hike that would allow us to experience the glacier without being too strenuous for Sophie. There are glacier hiking tours that take place on various outlet tongues from Europe's largest glacier, Vatnajokull.


We booked a tour with one of the local guiding companies, and after a short drive, we arrived at the base of the glacier. Our guide, a friendly and knowledgeable young woman named Helga, provided us with crampons and helmets and gave us a safety briefing before we set foot on the ice. The glacier can be a dangerous place, filled with deep holes and cracks, which is why you want to make sure to have a certified guide leading you on your tour.


Walking on the glacier was an incredible experience. The ice was a deep blue color, and the surface was covered in fascinating formations and crevasses. Helga pointed out various features and explained how the glacier was formed and how it was constantly changing. Sophie was particularly excited about the ice caves, and we spent some time exploring these otherworldly spaces. The ice caves are truly unique formations that are impossible to find anywhere else but in a glacier.


As we hiked further onto the glacier, the views became even more spectacular. We could see for miles in every direction, with mountains, valleys, and black sand beaches stretching out before us. It was a truly awe-inspiring sight, and I felt a deep sense of connection to the natural world. Melrakki Adventures offers glacier tours in Skaftafell with small groups.


After our glacier hike, we were all feeling a bit tired, so we decided to head back to our cabin for a rest. We spent a few hours relaxing and enjoying the peace and quiet of the Icelandic countryside. I took the opportunity to catch up on some writing, while Lena read a book, and Sophie played with her toys. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of adventure.


For dinner, we decided to try Ishusid Pizzeria Restaurant. While it's a bit of a drive from Skaftafell, the promise of delicious pizza was enough to lure us in. And we weren't disappointed. The pizzeria is known for its unique blend of pizza and fresh seafood. The restaurant had a relaxed vibe, and the staff were friendly and welcoming. We ordered a couple of pizzas to share, including one with langoustine, which was surprisingly delicious. Sophie devoured her pizza, declaring it the best she had ever tasted. Lena and I agreed that it was pretty good, although perhaps not quite as good as the pizza we make at home. Still, it was a satisfying end to a long and eventful day.


After dinner, we stopped by Skaftfell Bistro for a nightcap. I sampled a local ale while Lena had a glass of wine, and Sophie enjoyed a juice box. The bistro had a cozy atmosphere, and we enjoyed chatting with the friendly staff and soaking in the local culture. Skaftfell Bistro offers fulfilling food, pizzas, aromatic coffee, delicious cakes and sweets, ale, wine and other beverages.


As we drove back to our cabin, I reflected on the day's adventures. We had hiked to a stunning waterfall, explored a glacier, and enjoyed delicious food and drink. But more importantly, we had spent quality time together as a family, creating memories that we would cherish for years to come. The weather in Skaftafell in May is characterized by a significant temperature hike.


Tomorrow, we're heading to Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and Fjallsárlón Iceberg Boat Tours. I'm excited to see the icebergs up close and hopefully spot some seals. I'm also planning to visit Shopicelandic to pick up a few souvenirs. It's going to be another incredible day in Iceland, and I can't wait to share it with you.