Exploring the Ancient Wonders of Herculaneum with Fatoumata

Beneath the Surface: Naples Unveiled

Today, Fatoumata and I embarked on a journey that took us deep beneath the bustling streets of Naples, both literally and figuratively. It was a day of exploring the city's underbelly, rich with history and brimming with life. From ancient catacombs to vibrant markets, and of course, the unforgettable Neapolitan cuisine, today was a sensory feast that I am eager to share.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at La maison de la pizza. The aroma of freshly baked dough and simmering tomato sauce filled the air as we stepped inside. I opted for a simple Margherita, while Fatoumata chose the Ortolana, both pizzas were delicious with savory crusts. It was the perfect fuel for our underground adventure ahead. It reminded me of the simple yet satisfying flavors of home, much like the millet porridge my mother used to make on cold mornings in Goundam.


Savor authentic Italian pizza at La Maison de la Pizza in Ercolano - where every slice tells a story.

First on our itinerary was the Catacombs of San Gennaro. Descending into the cool depths, we were immediately transported back in time. The catacombs, an early Christian burial site, are a sprawling network of tunnels and chambers. Our guide led us through the different levels, explaining the history and significance of this sacred place. I was particularly struck by the well-preserved frescoes, some of the earliest Christian art in southern Italy. The experience was both humbling and awe-inspiring.


Uncover the rich history and spiritual significance of the Catacombs of San Gennaro, a must-see archaeological gem in Naples.

Exploring the depths of Naples is like peeling back layers of history, each one revealing a new facet of this vibrant city.

Fatoumata, ever the curious one, peppered the guide with questions about the burial rituals and the lives of those interred within these ancient walls. I found myself reflecting on the continuity of human experience, the way we honor our dead and seek meaning in the face of mortality. It’s a theme that resonates deeply with the traditions of my Malian heritage, where ancestors are revered and their stories kept alive through generations.

Emerging from the catacombs, we made our way to Underground Naples. This subterranean world, a network of tunnels and ancient aqueducts, offered a different perspective on the city's history. Originally built by the Greeks for water management, these tunnels were later expanded by the Romans and used for various purposes, including as air raid shelters during World War II. Walking through the narrow passages, I could almost hear the echoes of the past, the voices of those who sought refuge here during times of conflict. It was a stark reminder of the resilience of the human spirit.


Explore the rich history of Underground Naples, where ancient tunnels and fascinating artifacts reveal the secrets of the city's past.

After our underground explorations, we resurfaced into the vibrant chaos of Naples and headed to Via San Biagio Dei Librai. This historic street, also known as Spaccanapoli, is the heart of the old city. Lined with shops, churches, and bustling with locals and tourists alike, it’s a feast for the senses. We strolled along, soaking in the atmosphere, admiring the artisan workshops, and browsing the bookshops that give the street its name. I picked up a beautiful leather-bound journal, a perfect place to record my thoughts and impressions of this incredible journey.


Experience the vibrant culture and history of Naples at Via San Biagio Dei Librai, a bustling street filled with shops, cafes, and local charm.

As the afternoon wore on, our stomachs began to rumble, reminding us that it was time for lunch. We found a charming spot, Bistrot Italia, tucked away on a side street. The restaurant exuded a warm and inviting ambiance, and the menu featured a tempting array of local specialties. Fatoumata ordered the seafood pasta, while I opted for the lasagna, a classic Neapolitan dish. Each bite was an explosion of flavor, a testament to the region's culinary heritage. The service was impeccable, and we felt like we were dining with family. It reminded me of the communal meals we often shared in Mali, where food is a celebration of life and togetherness.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at Bistrot Italia in Ercolano – where every meal is a celebration of tradition and taste.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we decided to indulge in a bit of retail therapy. Via San Biagio Dei Librai offered a treasure trove of unique finds, from handcrafted souvenirs to local delicacies. Fatoumata, with her keen eye for fashion, found a beautiful silk scarf, while I haggled for a vintage postcard depicting Mount Vesuvius. It’s these small mementos that help us relive our travel experiences long after we’ve returned home.

As evening approached, we made our way to La Roccia Al Vesuvio for dinner. Situated near Mount Vesuvius, the restaurant offered stunning views of the volcano. The ambiance was romantic, and the menu featured a range of traditional Neapolitan dishes. We started with a selection of local cheeses and cured meats, followed by a hearty seafood stew. The flavors were rich and complex, a perfect reflection of the region's culinary landscape. As we savored our meal, we watched the sun set over Vesuvius, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. It was a magical moment, one that I will cherish forever.


Experience authentic Italian flavors with breathtaking views at La Roccia Al Vesuvio, where every meal is a celebration of culinary art.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the layers of history and culture that permeate Naples. From the depths of the catacombs to the bustling streets of Spaccanapoli, this city is a living museum, a testament to the enduring power of the human spirit. And of course, the food! Each meal has been a celebration of local flavors and culinary traditions, a reminder of the importance of sharing good food with good company.

Tomorrow, we are planning to visit the San Carlo Theatre and take a guided tour of Napoli Sotterranea. I am excited to see what other hidden gems this city has in store for us. I am particularly looking forward to the theatre, as I have always been fascinated by the performing arts. Fatoumata is keen to explore more of the underground city, eager to uncover more of its secrets. As we prepare for another day of adventure, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience this incredible city with my beloved wife.

Before concluding, I must share a funny incident that occurred during our visit to Underground Naples. As we navigated one of the narrower tunnels, I accidentally bumped my head on a low-hanging rock. Fatoumata, ever the caring spouse, burst into laughter, while I, slightly dazed, tried to maintain my composure. It was a moment of levity amidst the solemnity of the underground city, a reminder that even in the most historical of settings, there is always room for a good laugh.

And now, as I sit here writing, with the sounds of Naples drifting in through the window, I raise a glass to this incredible city, to its rich history, its vibrant culture, and its unforgettable cuisine. May our journey continue to be filled with adventure, discovery, and of course, plenty of delicious food!

I'm also reminded of a quote from one of my favorite authors, Albert Camus, who once said:

“The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion.”

While Camus was not speaking about travel, I find that his words resonate with my own experiences. Travel, for me, is an act of rebellion against the confines of the everyday, a way to break free from the routines and expectations that can stifle our spirits. By immersing ourselves in new cultures, exploring new landscapes, and encountering new people, we expand our horizons and challenge our assumptions. We become more open-minded, more compassionate, and more alive.

So, as we continue our journey through Italy, I encourage you to join us in embracing the spirit of rebellion, in seeking out new experiences, and in celebrating the freedom that travel can bring. And who knows, maybe we'll even inspire a few others to pack their bags and embark on their own adventures. Until tomorrow, arrivederci!