Cultural Immersion in Oaxaca with Friends

Threads of Tradition and Tastes of Oaxaca

Today was a day of diving deep into the cultural heart of Oaxaca. From the intricate weaving traditions of Teotitlán del Valle to the explosion of flavors in Oaxaca City, every moment was a sensory delight. I am so excited to share my experiences with you all!

The day started with a hearty breakfast at El Escapulario. I opted for a traditional Oaxacan breakfast, which included a flavorful soup and freshly made tortillas. It was the perfect way to fuel up for our journey to Teotitlán del Valle.


Experience authentic Oaxacan breakfasts at El Escapulario, where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

Teotitlán del Valle is a Zapotec village known for its exquisite textiles. As we drove through the Oaxacan Central Valley, the landscape transformed into a tapestry of green fields and distant mountains. The weather in August is pleasantly warm, with temperatures averaging around 24°C (75°F), although the chance of rain is relatively high. Luckily, the sun was shining as we arrived in Teotitlán del Valle.


Discover the heart of Oaxaca in Teotitlán del Valle, where vibrant textiles, rich culture, and breathtaking landscapes await your exploration.

The village exudes a sense of tranquility that's rare to find in bustling cities. The air was filled with the rhythmic clacking of looms, a sound that has echoed through these streets for centuries. We visited a local family's workshop, where we witnessed the entire rug-making process, from dyeing the wool with natural pigments to weaving intricate designs on traditional foot looms.

I was particularly fascinated by the natural dyes used to color the wool. The artisans use plants, insects, and minerals to create a vibrant palette of colors. The deep reds come from the cochineal bug, the yellows from marigold flowers, and the blues from indigo plants. It was incredible to see how these natural elements could produce such rich and lasting colors.

The family welcomed us with open arms, sharing stories of their ancestors and the significance of the Zapotec designs woven into their rugs. Each rug tells a story, reflecting the history, beliefs, and daily life of the Zapotec people. I learned that many of the designs are inspired by ancient ruins, local flora and fauna, and spiritual symbols.

I couldn't resist purchasing a beautiful rug with a geometric pattern that resonated with me. It will be a reminder of the artistry and cultural richness of Teotitlán del Valle, and a unique piece to bring back to Berlin.

Next on our itinerary was a visit to Dona Rosa Studio, a renowned black pottery workshop in San Bartolo Coyotepec. The studio was founded by the famous potter Dona Rosa in the 1950s, and her family continues to use her traditional methods to create the shiny black pottery.


Discover the vibrant world of Oaxacan pottery at Doña Rosa Studio, where tradition and creativity come together in stunning handcrafted pieces.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by a member of the family who demonstrated the pottery-making process. The technique involves shaping the clay by hand, without the use of a traditional pottery wheel. Instead, they use two clay plates that are hand-spun on top of each other as the pottery is formed. It was mesmerizing to watch the artisan's skilled hands transform a lump of clay into an elegant vase.

The black color of the pottery is achieved through a unique firing process. The pieces are fired in an underground oven, and once they reach a certain temperature, the oven is sealed, creating a reduction atmosphere that turns the pottery black. The pottery is then burnished to create its signature shine.

The true beauty of Oaxaca lies not only in its stunning landscapes and historical sites but also in the enduring spirit and artistry of its people.

I was impressed by the intricate designs and the glossy finish of the pottery. I bought a small black clay bowl as a memento of my visit. I know Hans will appreciate it too, as he loves unique pieces of art.

After a day filled with art and culture, it was time to indulge in Oaxaca's culinary scene. For lunch, we stopped at La Popular, a humble little restaurant known for its authentic Mexican cuisine. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, creating a lively atmosphere.


Savor authentic Oaxacan flavors at La Popular, where tradition meets taste in every delightful dish.

I ordered the chicken mole, one of Oaxaca's most famous dishes. The mole was rich, complex, and flavorful, with a hint of chocolate and a blend of spices that danced on my taste buds. My friends opted for the tlayudas, large crispy tortillas topped with beans, cheese, and salsa. Everyone raved about their meals, and we all agreed that La Popular lived up to its name.

For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a fine dining experience at Criollo, a restaurant owned by world-renowned chef Enrique Olvera. The restaurant is located in a beautiful old Oaxacan house with an outdoor patio. The ambiance was elegant and inviting, with soft lighting and traditional Oaxacan décor.


Discover Criollo in Oaxaca: Where traditional Mexican cuisine meets innovative culinary artistry.

Criollo offers a tasting menu that changes daily, showcasing the best of Oaxacan cuisine with a modern twist. We opted for the 9-course meal with drink pairings, eager to experience the full culinary journey. Each dish was a work of art, both visually stunning and incredibly delicious. The flavors were complex and nuanced, highlighting the unique ingredients of the region.

Some of the standout dishes included a pumpkin tamale with pineapple and chicken, a perfectly cooked fillet of fish with a rich posole, and a short rib with blue corn tortillas. The drink pairings were expertly chosen, complementing each dish and enhancing the overall dining experience.

The service at Criollo was impeccable, with attentive and knowledgeable staff who made us feel welcome and pampered. It was an unforgettable dining experience that truly captured the essence of Oaxacan cuisine. I will have to remember to tell Hans about this place, as he would love to try the modern twists on traditional dishes.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Selva Oaxaca Cocktail Bar, known for its innovative and creative cocktails. The bar has a stylish atmosphere with a beautiful interior. The bartenders were friendly and attentive, offering great recommendations.


Discover Selva Oaxaca Cocktail Bar, where tropical vibes meet innovative cocktails in the heart of Oaxaca's vibrant nightlife.

I ordered the Selva cocktail, described as a jungle in a glass, which was a mix of local ingredients and Mexican spirits. The drink was refreshing and complex, with a perfect balance of sweet, sour, and spicy flavors. My friends tried other unique cocktails, and we all enjoyed the vibrant atmosphere and expertly crafted drinks. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with cultural immersion and culinary delights. I even managed to get a photo of the bar's award plaque, as it was named one of the top 50 cocktail bars.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience the rich cultural heritage of Oaxaca. From the artistry of Teotitlán del Valle to the flavors of Oaxaca City, every moment was a sensory delight. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings, as we plan to visit Zona Arqueológica de Mitla and the Tree of Tule. I'm also looking forward to trying new restaurants such as El Quinque, Zandunga Sabor Istmeño, and Gozobi Restaurante Bar. And of course, I'm excited to shop for more textiles at Galería Fe y Lola Rugs & Textiles.

Tonight, as I sit in my hotel room, I am reminded of how much I appreciate the beauty and diversity of different cultures. It is through these experiences that I grow as a person and gain a deeper understanding of the world around me. I am grateful to be sharing this journey with my friends, and I look forward to continuing our exploration of Oaxaca together.

I also realize that I forgot to pack my Spanish phrasebook and hat! It's a good thing there will be more opportunities to buy a hat during our trip. Good night, everyone!