Solo Wilderness Adventure in Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Chasing Waterfalls and Glacial Dreams

Today was a day of contrasts, from the stark beauty of a glacier to the soothing warmth of a geothermal pool, all set against the backdrop of Iceland's dramatic Westfjords. It's days like these that remind me why I crave solo adventures – the freedom to explore at my own pace, to linger where my heart desires, and to fully immerse myself in the raw, untamed landscapes that Iceland so generously offers.

My morning began with a hearty breakfast at Kaffi Norðurfjörður. Fuelled up, I set out to witness the imposing Drangajökull glacier.


Explore Drangajökull Glacier, the northernmost glacier in Iceland, where stunning landscapes and outdoor adventures await amidst breathtaking natural beauty.

Drangajökull: Iceland's Northernmost Giant

The drive to Drangajökull was an experience in itself. The rugged terrain and winding roads of the Westfjords demanded attention, but the views were more than rewarding. As I approached, the glacier loomed in the distance, a majestic ice cap clinging to the mountains. It's hard to believe that this is Iceland's northernmost glacier, and one of the few that hasn't significantly shrunk in recent years. Its resilience is a testament to nature's tenacity, a quality I find deeply inspiring.

Drangajökull, unlike some of Iceland's other glaciers, isn't perched atop a volcano. This icy giant, surrounded by untouched wilderness, offers a unique perspective on Iceland's diverse landscapes. Standing there, I felt a profound sense of solitude, a connection to the ancient forces that have shaped this land. The air was crisp, the silence broken only by the occasional cry of a bird overhead. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated peace.

The beauty of the Westfjords lies not just in its landscapes, but in the profound sense of solitude and connection it offers to those who seek it.

Krossneslaug: A Geothermal Oasis

After the invigorating chill of Drangajökull, I was ready for something warmer. My destination: Krossneslaug, a geothermal pool tucked away on a remote black-pebble beach.


Discover the soothing geothermal waters of Krossneslaug, a thermal bath in Árnes, Iceland, surrounded by stunning coastal landscapes.

The drive itself was an adventure, a 90-kilometer journey from Hólmavík along gravel road 643, demanding careful navigation. But every bump and turn was worth it.

As I arrived at Krossneslaug, the setting sun cast a golden glow over the landscape. The pool, perched right by the ocean, offered an infinity view that blurred the line between the geothermal waters and the wild, crashing waves. It was surreal, soaking in the warm, mineral-rich water while listening to the symphony of the sea. Built by local youth in the mid-20th century, Krossneslaug exudes a rustic charm that's hard to find elsewhere. The facilities are simple, but well-maintained, adding to the authentic experience.

There's something incredibly special about Krossneslaug. Maybe it's the remote location, the feeling of being at the edge of the world. Or perhaps it's the way the community has embraced and preserved this hidden gem. Whatever it is, Krossneslaug is more than just a pool; it's a sanctuary, a place to reconnect with nature and find solace in simplicity.

A Culinary Journey Through the Westfjords

With the sun beginning its descent, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, I decided to head back towards Ísafjörður, but not before indulging in the local culinary scene. Lunch was a delightful affair at Edinborg Bistro.


Discover the flavors of Iceland at Edinborg Bistro - where local ingredients meet culinary excellence in Ísafjörður.

I savored their famous fish soup, a hearty and flavorful concoction that warmed me from the inside out. The bistro's cozy atmosphere and friendly staff made it the perfect spot to recharge before the next leg of my journey.

For dinner, I treated myself to a seafood feast at Restaurant Galdur in Hólmavík.


Experience fresh Icelandic seafood at Restaurant Galdur in Hólmavík - where taste meets tradition amidst breathtaking scenery.

Known for its fresh, locally sourced ingredients, Galdur did not disappoint. I opted for the catch of the day, a perfectly cooked cod served with seasonal vegetables. The flavors were exquisite, a testament to the restaurant's commitment to quality and tradition. It was the perfect end to a day filled with exploration and adventure.

Before calling it a night, I made a pit stop at Dokkan Brugghús, Ísafjörður's local brewery.


Discover the vibrant flavors of Iceland at Dokkan Brugghús, where craft beer meets exquisite local cuisine in a cozy atmosphere.

I sampled a flight of their craft beers, each one unique and flavorful. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, a great place to mingle with locals and fellow travelers. I even met the owner, Gunnhildur, who shared the brewery's fascinating origin story. It's these personal connections that make traveling so rewarding.

Reflections and Tomorrow's Adventure

As I sit here in my tent, the gentle glow of the midnight sun filtering through the fabric, I can't help but feel grateful for the experiences of today. From the icy majesty of Drangajökull to the geothermal bliss of Krossneslaug, the Westfjords have captured my heart. And the culinary delights along the way only added to the magic.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Djúpavík, a remote village with a fascinating history [Itinerary of Tomorrow]. I've heard tales of a massive herring factory and the haunting beauty of the surrounding landscape. I'm eager to uncover the stories that lie hidden within this isolated corner of Iceland. I'm also looking forward to trying out Húsið for breakfast, Faktorshus in Haestikaupstadur for lunch, and Café Riis Hólmavík for dinner [Itinerary of Tomorrow]. And perhaps a little shopping at Þristur [Itinerary of Tomorrow].

But for now, it's time to rest and recharge, ready for another day of solo wilderness adventure in the incredible Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. The Westfjords have a way of seeping into your soul, leaving you with a sense of wonder and a deep appreciation for the power and beauty of the natural world. And I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

As I reflect on today's journey, I'm struck by the simple yet profound truth that the most memorable experiences often come from venturing off the beaten path, embracing the unexpected, and connecting with the world around us on a deeper level. That's what sustainable travel is all about, and it's a philosophy I'll continue to carry with me on all my adventures.

The Westfjords have certainly cast their spell on me, and I'm already dreaming of my return. Until then, I'll cherish the memories of glacier views, geothermal bliss, and the warm hospitality of the Icelandic people. Good night from Hornstrandir!