Pilgrimage Through the Ancient Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Journey Begins

Today marked the beginning of our pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo, a journey I’ve dreamt of for years. Leaving behind the familiar streets of Warsaw, I stepped onto the ancient trails of Japan, ready to immerse myself in its rich spiritual heritage and breathtaking natural beauty. The air was thick with anticipation as we prepared to walk in the footsteps of pilgrims past, seeking solace and enlightenment in this sacred landscape.

Our adventure began with a flight from Warsaw to Osaka, a journey that seemed to transport us not just across continents but also across time. The efficiency of the Japanese train system whisked us to Kii-Tanabe, where a local bus awaited to carry us closer to the heart of Kumano Kodo. The transition from the bustling city to the tranquil countryside was seamless, a testament to Japan's ability to blend modernity with tradition.

With my friends by my side, I felt a sense of camaraderie and shared purpose. We had all come seeking something different, yet united by a desire to connect with something larger than ourselves. As a librarian specializing in Polish-Irish cultural exchange resources, I am always fascinated by how different cultures find common ground in their spiritual practices and reverence for nature. I was eager to see how the Kumano Kodo would resonate with my own experiences and beliefs.

Our first stop was the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. The trailhead was marked by a small, unassuming sign, a gateway to a world of ancient forests and hidden shrines. I took a deep breath, feeling the weight of my backpack and the lightness of my spirit. It was time to begin.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, where ancient paths meet stunning natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.

Before embarking on the trail, we fueled up with a delightful breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. This charming café, nestled along the Kumano Kodo, is known for its fresh, local ingredients and cozy atmosphere. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with miso soup, grilled fish, and pickled vegetables. The flavors were delicate and nourishing, providing the perfect energy boost for the day ahead. My friends chose bagels and muffins. The cafe is located in a renovated sake store warehouse. The owner of the cafe moved to Kumano Kodo from Tokyo. She wanted to help travellers enjoy Kumano Kodo.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

The first steps on the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route were a revelation. The path was lined with towering cedar trees, their roots gnarled and ancient, their branches reaching towards the sky like supplicating arms. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the moss-covered stones. The air was still and quiet, broken only by the occasional rustle of leaves and the distant call of a bird.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route: a UNESCO World Heritage site blending history, spirituality, and breathtaking landscapes.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey into the heart of Japanese spirituality and natural beauty.

As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on the countless pilgrims who had walked this path before us. For centuries, people from all walks of life have sought solace and enlightenment on the Kumano Kodo, their footsteps imbuing the trail with a sense of history and reverence. I imagined them, clad in traditional robes, their faces etched with determination and hope, their hearts open to the transformative power of the journey. The Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route dates back to the Heian period.

The Daimon-saka route is known for its well-preserved appearance. Moss-covered stone steps and dense trees line the 640-meter stretch. Along the way, we encountered several small shrines and temples, each with its own unique history and significance. We stopped to offer a prayer at each one, grateful for the opportunity to connect with the spiritual energy of the Kumano Kodo. The path is uneven and can be slippery when wet.

For lunch, we stopped at the Fushiogami Teahouse, a serene retreat nestled along the pilgrimage route. This delightful café offers traditional Japanese teas and snacks in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. I savored a cup of matcha, its earthy flavor grounding me in the present moment. The teahouse is not just a stop for refreshments, it provides an authentic experience steeped in Japanese culture. The staff is known for their friendly service.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Triple Kumano Kodo JAPAN, a local shop where we hoped to find a few mementos of our journey. The shop was filled with a variety of local crafts and souvenirs, from intricately carved wooden statues to hand-painted ceramics. I purchased a small, wooden amulet depicting a three-legged crow, a symbol of guidance and protection on the Kumano Kodo. I am not sure what my friends purchased.


Explore local crafts and delightful souvenirs at the Triple Kumano Kodo Souvenir Store, a unique stop along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

Our day concluded with a delightful dinner at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. This unique establishment combines the charm of a guesthouse with the culinary excellence of an Italian restaurant. The owner, Giovanni dal Bosco, is an Italian chef who came to Japan in 2013 and fell in love with the region. He grows his own vegetables and makes his own wine, creating a truly authentic farm-to-table experience. The restaurant was listed in The Michelin Guide in 2022.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

The guest house is located about 20 minutes walk from Nejiki-no-Sugi. Chickens and goats are kept in pens near the entrance of this 90-year-old home. There is no TV. The guest house is perfect for Kumano travellers to get away from their busy life.

We enjoyed a delicious Verona-style meal, featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients and expertly paired wines. The atmosphere was warm and convivial, as we shared stories and laughter with our fellow travelers. As I savored the last bite of my meal, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. We ate and drank well. They are able to cater to vegetarians on request.

As I lay in my futon that night, I reflected on the day's events. The Kumano Kodo had already exceeded my expectations, offering a blend of physical challenge, spiritual connection, and cultural immersion. I was excited to see what tomorrow would bring, as we continued our pilgrimage towards Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano. I am looking forward to visiting Oyunohara tomorrow, the site of the original Kumano Hongu Taisha before it was destroyed by a flood in 1889.

Before drifting off to sleep, I opened my travel journal and wrote a few lines about the day's experiences. As a librarian, I find solace in the written word, a way to capture the essence of a moment and preserve it for future reflection. I knew that the Kumano Kodo would leave an indelible mark on my soul, a reminder of the power of pilgrimage and the beauty of the natural world. I also made a note to buy sunscreen and a travel guide book, as I had forgotten to pack them!

There are several festivals and events that take place in the Kumano Kodo area in August. The Kumano Grand Fireworks Festival takes place every year on August 17.

I am excited to see what tomorrow brings!