Exploring the Enchanting Lofoten Islands

To Å and Beyond: Our Lofoten Beginning

After months of anticipation, Élodie and I have finally arrived in the Lofoten Islands! The journey itself was quite the adventure, flying from Montreal to Oslo and then connecting to Bodø before catching the ferry. I must admit, I briefly panicked when I realized I'd forgotten my waterproof jacket, a rookie mistake for a place known for its, shall we say, *dynamic* weather. But the moment we stepped off the ferry, the breathtaking scenery washed away any lingering travel stress. The crisp air, the dramatic mountains rising from the sea, and the quaint fishing villages clinging to the coastline – it was exactly as the photos promised, only amplified by reality.

Our first day was focused on the southern tip of Lofoten, specifically the village of Å (pronounced awe), which, quite literally, marks the end of the road. As a software developer, I appreciate the logical endpoint, but as a traveler, I was eager to discover what this final destination held in store. The drive along the E10 was mesmerizing, with every turn revealing a new postcard-worthy vista. Even in October, with autumn gradually giving way to winter, the landscape was vibrant, with patches of golden grass contrasting against the dark, rocky terrain.

We started our exploration with the Viewpoint at Å. The short walk up was rewarded with a panorama that stole our breath. Below us, the village of Å nestled against the water, its traditional red rorbu cabins creating a striking contrast against the imposing mountains. The sea stretched out before us, a vast expanse of blue touched by the grey of the sky. I couldn't resist snapping dozens of photos, trying to capture the sheer scale and beauty of it all. Élodie, ever the artist, was already sketching in her notebook, a serene smile on her face as she translated the landscape onto paper.


Discover the Å Viewpoint, a breathtaking destination in Norway's Lofoten Islands, known for its stunning landscapes and serene atmosphere.

The viewpoint offered a perfect introduction to the raw beauty of Lofoten, a promise of the adventures to come.

Sometimes, the most scenic roads in life are the dead ends that lead to unexpected views.

Next on our list was the Norwegian Fishing Village Museum in Å. This open-air museum offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the fishermen who shaped this region. We wandered through the well-preserved buildings, including a boathouse, a cod liver oil factory, and a traditional fisherman's cabin, each telling a story of the hard work and resilience required to survive in this environment. I found myself particularly drawn to the smithy, imagining the sparks flying as the blacksmith crafted the tools essential for life at sea. Élodie, with her keen interest in local culture, was captivated by the bakery, learning about traditional Norwegian breads and pastries. We even sampled a few, the hearty flavors providing a welcome warmth against the chilly air. It was fascinating to discover the history of the Lofoten fishery, learning about its development over the past 250 years. The museum truly brought to life the realities of the traveling fisherman, the local families, and the squire who governed the fishing village from 1840 to 1960.


Discover the essence of Norway's maritime culture at the Norwegian Fishing Village Museum, a captivating journey through the history of fishing and coastal life.

For breakfast, we enjoyed a delightful meal at Restaurant Gammelbua in Reine. The restaurant, housed in a carefully restored 18th-century building, exuded a charming, historical ambiance. Élodie and I savored the fresh, local ingredients prepared with both traditional and international flair. We both agreed that the stockfish was exceptional. Despite it being October, we sat outside and enjoyed the fantastic view of the beautiful surroundings. It was the perfect start to our day.


Experience exquisite Norwegian cuisine in the heart of Reine at Restaurant Gammelbua - where local flavors meet breathtaking views.

Lunch found us at Maren Anna in Sørvågen, a gem of a restaurant with Nordic traditions on full display. The menu was a testament to local ingredients and Northern Norwegian culinary love. Élodie opted for the oven-baked cod with beurre blanc, while I, feeling adventurous, tried the whale tenderloin with pumpkin puree. Both dishes were exquisite, showcasing the region's unique flavors with a touch of French-Asian inspiration. The service was impeccable, and the cozy atmosphere, combined with stunning views of the harbor, made for an unforgettable dining experience. What made the experience even more special was knowing that Maren Anna occupies a rebuilt factory from 1914 that once produced cod liver oil and stored stockfish.


Discover authentic Norwegian flavors at Maren Anna in Sørvågen – where stunning views meet exceptional cuisine.

As evening approached, we made our way to Børsen Spiseri in Svolvær for dinner. This renowned restaurant, located in Lofoten's best-preserved trading wharf from 1828, offered an exceptional culinary experience. I started with the Taste of Lofoten, a platter of smoked and cured whale, cured salmon, cod tongue, and local cheese. For the main course, I chose the Tørrfisk Royal, Børsen's signature dish of stockfish with carrot stew, egg butter, and bacon. Élodie enjoyed the catch of the day, which was halibut served with asparagus beans and fennel crudité. The meal was a true celebration of Lofoten's unique larder. The restaurant's exclusive wine room enhanced our dining experience. The ambience was equally impressive and we spent some time at Krambua, a small museum within the wharf, filled with old wares and equipment that transported us back a century.


Experience authentic Norwegian cuisine at Børsen Spiseri in Svolvær, where fresh local ingredients meet stunning harbor views.

To cap off our first day, we decided to visit Anker Brygge Bryggebaren for a nightcap. Located in a former fish factory built around 1860, this popular spot offered a lively atmosphere. We sat on the quayside, enjoying the last rays of the sun as we watched the boats glide by. The Bryggebar was the perfect place to relax and reflect on our first day in Lofoten.


Experience the charm of Anker Brygge Bryggebaren, a seaside pub in Svolvær offering local flavors and stunning views.

October in Lofoten is known for its unpredictable weather. We experienced a bit of everything today – sunshine, wind, and a light drizzle – but it only added to the dramatic atmosphere. The locals say they have more weather here, a saying they use instead of saying bad, windy, or rainy weather. It's a badge of honor, a testament to the raw, untamed nature of these islands. And honestly, I wouldn't have it any other way.

As I write this, nestled in our cozy cabin, I can't help but feel a sense of excitement for what tomorrow holds. We plan to visit the Lofotr Viking Museum and, weather permitting, attempt the hike to Reinebringen. Élodie is particularly excited about visiting Lofoten Wool / Høystålet, a local shop. I'm hoping for clear skies so we might catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights, a spectacle I've dreamed of witnessing for years. For now, though, I'll drift off to sleep, lulled by the sound of the wind and the promise of more adventures to come. I'm also glad I remembered to pack my camera; I don't want to miss a single moment of this incredible journey. Tomorrow, we explore the Viking history of this fascinating place.

One thing is for sure: Lofoten has already cast its spell on us, and I can't wait to see what other wonders await us on this journey to the edge of the world.