The Westerfeld House: A Victorian Enigma

The William Westerfeld House, standing proudly at 1198 Fulton Street, is a captivating landmark that embodies the spirit of San Francisco's rich and often eccentric history. Built in 1889 for German-born confectioner William Westerfeld, this imposing Stick-Eastlake style Victorian mansion has witnessed a century of transformations, serving as a home, a nightclub, an apartment building, and a haven for the city's counterculture. Westerfeld, a successful baker, commissioned architect Henry Geilfuss to design a grand residence for his family. The resulting 28-room mansion, complete with a rose garden and carriage house, was a testament to Westerfeld's prosperity. However, his time in the house was short-lived, as he passed away just six years after its completion. The house was then sold to John Mahony, a contractor known for his work on iconic San Francisco hotels like the St. Francis and the Palace Hotel. Mahony's ownership marked a shift in the Westerfeld House's destiny. He replaced the rose garden with flats to address the city's growing housing needs, foreshadowing the building's future as an apartment complex. However, it was the subsequent owners who truly shaped the house's unique identity. In 1928, a group of Czarist Russians purchased the property, transforming the ground-floor ballroom into a vibrant nightclub called "Dark Eyes." The upper floors became meeting rooms, and the house unofficially became known as the "Russian Embassy," a hub for the city's Russian émigré community. The sounds of jazz and revelry filled the air, adding a new layer to the house's already intriguing story. After World War II, the Westerfeld House transitioned into a 14-unit apartment building, attracting a diverse group of residents, including African-American musicians who played in the neighborhood's jazz clubs. For two decades, the house resonated with the soulful sounds of jazz, becoming a haven for artists and creatives. The 1960s ushered in an era of counterculture and experimentation, and the Westerfeld House became a focal point for San Francisco's burgeoning underground scene. The Calliope Company, a 50-member collective, took up residence, followed by underground filmmaker Kenneth Anger, who filmed "Invocation of My Demon Brother" within its walls, featuring members of the Manson Family and Church of Satan founder Anton LaVey. The house became a magnet for artists, musicians, and those seeking alternative lifestyles. During this period, members of the Grateful Dead and Big Brother and the Holding Company were frequent visitors, further solidifying the house's reputation as a hub for the city's psychedelic music scene. The Westerfeld House became synonymous with the era's experimentation, artistic expression, and social upheaval. By the late 1960s, the house had fallen into disrepair, reflecting the tumultuous times. In 1969, two men purchased the property for a mere $45,000, embarking on a series of haphazard renovations that further altered its character. However, their efforts were ultimately unsuccessful, and the house continued to decline. In 1986, Jim Siegel, a San Francisco businessman with a passion for historic preservation, purchased the Westerfeld House at a foreclosure auction for $750,000. Recognizing its architectural significance and cultural legacy, Siegel embarked on an ambitious restoration project, meticulously repairing the foundation, removing dropped ceilings, rewiring and replumbing the entire structure, and restoring the interior and exterior woodwork. Siegel's dedication to preserving the Westerfeld House's history is evident in every detail. He painstakingly restored the ground-floor ballroom, adorning its 25-foot ceiling with period wallpaper crafted by Bradbury & Bradbury. He also worked to uncover and preserve the house's many hidden architectural treasures, ensuring that its unique character would endure for generations to come. Today, the William Westerfeld House stands as a beautifully restored testament to San Francisco's vibrant past. While it is currently used as apartments and is not regularly open for public tours, its imposing presence across from Alamo Square Park makes it a must-see landmark for those seeking a glimpse into the city's unique and storied past. Its colorful history, filled with music, mystery, and a touch of the bizarre, continues to captivate and inspire, reminding us of the enduring power of architecture to reflect the spirit of a place and its people. Visitors can admire the house's intricate Stick-Eastlake detailing, its towering presence, and its undeniable aura of history. Imagine the sounds of jazz echoing through its halls, the scent of incense lingering in its rooms, and the vibrant energy of the city's counterculture swirling within its walls. The Westerfeld House is more than just a building; it is a living embodiment of San Francisco's unique and unforgettable story.