I Pupi Siciliani, Odense

Sicilian Soul in the Heart of Odense

I Pupi Siciliani sits on a quiet street in Odense’s historic centre, but step inside and the mood shifts immediately to southern Italy. The dining room is compact and low-lit, framed by rough stone walls and shelves of wine, with tables set close enough to create a gentle hum of conversation rather than noise. Traditional Sicilian puppets – the pupi that give the place its name – watch over the room, a playful nod to the island’s storytelling traditions and a reminder that this is as much about culture as it is about food. The restaurant opens only in the evenings, which lends dinner here a sense of occasion. There is no lunch rush, no passing trade drifting in for a quick bite; instead, service begins unhurriedly and builds through the night, more reminiscent of a neighbourhood trattoria in Palermo than a Scandinavian city centre.

A Menu That Changes With the Moon

Rather than a fixed repertoire, the kitchen works with a monthly changing menu, built around what is best and in season. One month you might find slow-braised beef in Nero d’Avola with creamy polenta; another, grilled octopus with lemon, capers and fennel, or house-made ravioli filled with ricotta and herbs. This rhythm keeps regulars guessing and allows the chef to respond to both Sicilian traditions and Danish produce. Some signatures, however, rarely leave the card. Arancini arrive as crisp, golden spheres with molten centres, sometimes filled with ragù, sometimes with cheese and spinach. Fresh ricotta, made in-house, is treated with respect: perhaps drizzled with olive oil and cracked pepper as a simple antipasto, or folded into pastas and desserts. Portions lean towards generous, and the pacing of courses encourages lingering rather than rushing.

From Vineyard to Glass

Wine plays a central role here, with a list that naturally leans heavily on Italy and particularly Sicily. Expect deep, volcanic reds from Mount Etna, fragrant Grillo and Catarratto whites, and occasional Danish or broader European bottles chosen to complement the food rather than impress with labels alone. Staff are happy to walk you through pairings, whether you are curious about an unfamiliar Sicilian grape or simply want something easy-drinking to accompany a plate of pasta. Alongside wine, there is often a small selection of aperitifs and digestifs: perhaps a Sicilian amaro to open your appetite, or a glass of limoncello to finish. Coffee is treated seriously, with short, robust espresso providing a fitting end to a rich meal.

Atmosphere, Hospitality and Pace

With limited seating and a compact floor, the restaurant quickly fills, especially on weekends. The atmosphere balances intimacy and energy: candlelit tables, close quarters and the occasional waft of garlic, tomato and grilled fish from the open pass. Service tends to be personal and informal rather than ceremonious, with introductions to dishes and a willingness to explain ingredients or preparation methods. Meals here often stretch across several courses and a couple of hours, particularly if you opt for a full menu. It is a place where conversations spill between antipasti and dolci, and where the sense of time fades a little – closer in spirit to a family gathering than a quick midweek dinner stop.

A Taste of Sicily in a Danish Evening

For Odense locals and visitors alike, I Pupi Siciliani offers a distinct contrast to Nordic cooking that dominates much of the city’s food scene. Here, flavours are bold and sun-drenched: tomatoes are slow-cooked until sweet, olives and capers bring salinity, and citrus brightens rich sauces. Yet there is also a quiet dialogue with Denmark in the ingredients, with local vegetables and fish often given Sicilian treatment. Whether you come for a celebratory meal or a simple evening of pasta and wine, the restaurant’s combination of focused menu, characterful décor and unhurried service creates an experience that feels transported from further south – a pocket of Sicily held gently within a Danish town house.