The Hollanders Graves Travel Guide

Tucked along the rocky shore of Ronas Voe in Northmavine, The Hollanders Graves is a modest but deeply moving memorial to a forgotten naval clash. A small granite cairn with a simple plaque reading "The Hollanders' Graves" marks the spot where local people buried Dutch sailors killed in the Battle of Ronas Voe in early 1674. The graves are believed to hold up to 300 men from the Dutch East Indiaman Wapen van Rotterdam, captured by English frigates in one of the final actions of the Third Anglo-Dutch War. Standing here, with the voe stretching out before you and the wind off the North Atlantic, the site feels like a quiet pause in a long, turbulent history.

In the winter of 1673–74, the Wapen van Rotterdam sought shelter in Ronas Voe, a deep, sheltered inlet on Shetland’s west coast. The ship had sailed from Texel but was stranded by southerly winds and a lack of suitable timber to repair its masts. During its stay, the crew traded Dutch gin, tobacco, and other goods with the local Shetlanders, many of whom had long-standing ties with Dutch fishermen and traders. When English warships arrived in February 1674, they attacked and captured the vessel, killing an unknown number of its crew. The dead were buried nearby by the people of Heylor, in what are now recognised as Shetland’s earliest known war graves.

The graves speak to Shetland’s role as a strategic North Atlantic anchorage during the Anglo-Dutch wars. Ronas Voe, like other voes around the islands, offered shelter to Dutch merchantmen and herring busses, making it a target for English naval forces. Yet the local population, accustomed to decades of peaceful contact with Dutch sailors, likely viewed these men more as trading partners than enemies. The Hollanders Graves thus stand not only as a war memorial but also as a reminder of the complex relationship between global conflicts and remote island communities. The site is part of a broader tapestry of Shetland’s maritime history, from Norse settlement to herring fleets and Arctic whaling.

Today, The Hollanders Graves are a quiet, unassuming place, reached by a short walk along the foreshore from the disused crab factory at Heylor. There are no formal facilities or signposts, and access involves a bit of scrambling over rocky ground, especially at higher tides. The cairn and plaque are clearly visible, and the surrounding landscape – with Ronas Voe, the open sea, and the distant outline of Ronas Hill – adds to the sense of isolation and reflection. It’s a place best visited in calm weather, with sturdy footwear and a respect for the exposed coastal environment. The site is open year-round, but conditions can be challenging in winter or strong winds.

The mood at The Hollanders Graves is one of quiet contemplation. There are no crowds, no ticket barriers, just the sound of the sea and the wind. On a clear day, the light over Ronas Voe is sharp and clear; in the long summer evenings, the site takes on a haunting, almost timeless quality. It’s a place that invites slow walking, a few moments of silence, and perhaps a thought for the sailors who never made it home. For visitors interested in maritime history, archaeology, or simply off‑the‑beaten‑path sites, this is a powerful and authentic stop on a journey through Shetland’s past.