Solo Cultural Expedition in Tilcara

Finding Tilcara's Rhythm

Today was a deep dive into the heart of Tilcara, a day where the town's vibrant pulse resonated with my own. From the lively plaza to the intimate art museum, and the savory local flavors I savored, every moment felt like a brushstroke on the canvas of my Argentine adventure. It’s amazing how quickly a place can feel like home when you open yourself to its culture and its people.

My day began with the gentle awakening of Tilcara itself. I strolled towards the Plaza Cnel. Manuel Álvarez Prado, the central gathering place. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of morning dew and the distant echo of Andean music. The plaza was already stirring with life; locals chatting, children playing, and vendors setting up their stalls. It was a kaleidoscope of colors and sounds, a vibrant tableau of everyday life in Tilcara. I found a bench under the shade of a tree and simply watched, absorbing the rhythm of the town. It’s these moments, these unscripted observations, that truly connect me to a place. It reminded me of mornings in Bamberg, watching the locals go about their day in the Marktplatz. I made a mental note to find a similar scene to capture with my camera later.


Discover the cultural heart of Tilcara at Plaza Cnel. Manuel Álvarez Prado, an enchanting park filled with local art, vibrant flora, and community spirit.

Breakfast was at Nazareno resto bar, a place recommended for its traditional Argentine fare. I opted for a classic *desayuno criollo*: strong coffee, medialunas (sweet croissants), and some homemade jam. The coffee was robust, the medialunas flaky and sweet, and the jam burst with the flavor of local fruits. It was the perfect start to a day of exploration. The cozy atmosphere of the resto bar, filled with the chatter of locals and the aroma of freshly baked bread, made me feel right at home. I even managed to practice my Spanish with the friendly staff, stumbling over a few words but ultimately getting my order across. I think I managed to communicate that I was a restorer of historical musical instruments too, but I'm not sure.


Experience authentic Argentine flavors at Nazareno Resto Bar in Tilcara – where delicious food meets breathtaking mountain views.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Next on my list was the Museum of Painting José Terry. This museum, housed in the former home of the renowned Argentine painter, José Antonio Terry, offered a fascinating glimpse into his life and work. Terry's paintings beautifully captured the essence of the Quebrada de Humahuaca, its landscapes, and its people. What struck me most was his ability to convey the spirit of the region through his art. The museum itself was a treasure trove of information about Terry's life, including his dedication to the education of deaf people in Argentina. As the father of three deaf children, he became a passionate advocate for their rights and access to education. Seeing his art displayed alongside stories of his social activism gave me a deeper appreciation for the man behind the paintings. The building itself, with its charming architecture, added to the overall experience, providing a beautiful backdrop for the artwork on display.


Discover the artistic legacy of Argentina at the Museum of Painting José Terry, where culture and creativity intertwine in the heart of Jujuy.

After the museum, I strolled through the streets of Tilcara, popping into Arte Nativo, a local shop showcasing the work of regional artisans. I was immediately drawn to the vibrant textiles, intricate ceramics, and handcrafted jewelry. Each piece told a story, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of the Quebrada de Humahuaca. I ended up buying a colorful woven scarf for Greta and a small wooden toy for Kian. I always try to bring back something that captures the essence of the place I've visited, something that will remind them of my journey and the stories I've shared. I know Greta will appreciate the craftsmanship of the scarf, and Kian will love playing with his new toy, imagining himself exploring the mountains of Argentina.


Discover authentic handicrafts and unique jewelry at Arte Nativo, the heart of Tilcara's artisan scene.

Lunch was at La Damajuana Restobar, another local favorite known for its traditional Argentine cuisine. I decided to try the *locro*, a hearty stew made with beans, corn, potatoes, and meat. It was a flavorful and satisfying meal, perfect for a chilly afternoon in the mountains. The restaurant had a cozy, rustic ambiance, with wooden tables and chairs, and walls adorned with local artwork. It was the kind of place where you could easily spend hours chatting with friends over good food and wine. I overheard a couple speaking German, and I was tempted to introduce myself, but I decided to enjoy the solitude for a bit longer.


Experience the rich culinary traditions at La Damajuana Restobar in Tilcara – where local flavors meet modern gastronomy in a vibrant setting.

As the afternoon waned, I found myself back at the Plaza Cnel. Manuel Álvarez Prado, watching the town come alive with the energy of the evening. Street performers entertained the crowds, vendors hawked their wares, and families strolled hand in hand. The air was filled with music, laughter, and the aroma of grilling meat. I felt a sense of belonging, as if I were a part of this vibrant community. I took some photos of the square, trying to capture the atmosphere, the light, the emotions of the people there. I hope they turn out well, as I want to share them with Greta and Kian when I get back.

Dinner was at Peña La Juana Tilcara, a traditional Argentine *peña* known for its live music and authentic cuisine. I ordered *empanadas salteñas*, savory pastries filled with meat, potatoes, and spices, and a glass of local wine. The empanadas were delicious, the wine smooth and fruity, and the music captivating. A group of local musicians played traditional Andean tunes, their voices blending with the strumming of guitars and the beat of drums. The atmosphere was electric, filled with the energy of the music and the enthusiasm of the crowd. I even joined in the singing, belting out the lyrics to a few familiar songs (albeit with a rather terrible accent).


Experience authentic Argentinian cuisine at Peña La Juana in Tilcara, where traditional flavors meet vibrant local culture.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I took one last stroll through the plaza, soaking in the sights and sounds of Tilcara at night. The stars were out, twinkling brightly in the clear mountain air. The town was quiet now, the energy of the day slowly dissipating. I felt a sense of peace and contentment, grateful for the experiences I had had and the connections I had made. Tilcara had captured my heart, and I knew I would never forget my time here.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Castillos de Huichaira and the Puente de Hierro [Iron Bridge], venturing a bit further from the town center to discover more of the region's natural beauty. I'm also looking forward to trying out La Chakana Parrilla for breakfast, Kactus for lunch, and La peña de Rolito for dinner. And if I have time, I might check out Tierra Andina Bar for a nightcap. It promises to be another day filled with adventure and discovery.

As I reflect on my day, I am reminded of how travel can transform us, opening our minds and hearts to new cultures and experiences. It's not just about seeing new places, but about connecting with the people who call those places home. And in Tilcara, I have found a place where I feel truly connected, a place where I feel like I belong.

I miss Greta and Kian, and I think about them constantly, but I know this trip is something I needed to do for myself. I hope that my stories and photos will inspire them to explore the world and discover their own connections to the places they visit. And perhaps, one day, we can all come back to Tilcara together and experience the magic of this special place.