Solo Cultural Expedition in Tilcara

Day 10: Tilcara's Heights and Depths: Conquering El Cono and the Devil's Throat

Today in Tilcara, I scaled the heights of Cumbre El Cono and descended into the dramatic gorge of Garganta del Diablo for an unforgettable adventure.

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A Day of Contrasts in Tilcara


Today was a day of immense contrasts, a true testament to the diverse landscapes surrounding Tilcara. From the dizzying heights of Cumbre EL.CONO, TILCARA to the depths of the dramatic Garganta del Diablo, it was a day that tested my limits and rewarded me with unparalleled views and experiences. I was eager to embrace the physical challenge and soak in the natural beauty of this region, especially with the crisp air of October adding a special touch to the scenery.

Hike to breathtaking views at Cumbre EL.CONO in Tilcara, Argentina. Experience stunning Andean landscapes and immerse yourself in local culture.
Hike to breathtaking views at Cumbre EL.CONO in Tilcara, Argentina. Experience stunning Andean landscapes and immerse yourself in local culture.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Restaurante Azul. I needed to fuel up for the day's adventures. The sopa was delicious and the cordial was very welcome. With a full stomach, I set off towards Cumbre El Cono, a peak that promised panoramic views of Tilcara and the Quebrada de Humahuaca. The air was cool, a welcome change from the warmer temperatures I had experienced earlier in the trip, making the hike all the more enjoyable. I made sure to have my camera ready, as I knew the views from the top would be worth capturing.

The ascent was challenging but manageable, even for someone like me who spends more time tinkering with antique instruments than scaling mountains. As I climbed, the town of Tilcara shrank below, and the vastness of the surrounding landscape unfolded before me. The colors of the mountains were striking, a palette of reds, oranges, and browns painted across the terrain. I paused frequently to catch my breath and take photos, each vantage point offering a unique perspective on the stunning scenery. I thought of Greta and Kian often, imagining their excitement at seeing these views. I promised myself to bring them here one day.

Reaching the summit of Cumbre El Cono was an exhilarating experience. The wind whipped around me, carrying the scent of the high desert. From the top, I could see for miles in every direction, the Quebrada de Humahuaca stretching out like a tapestry woven by nature. The sun was high, casting a warm glow over the landscape, and I felt a sense of accomplishment and awe at the beauty that surrounded me. I spent a good hour at the summit, simply taking it all in and etching the scene into my memory.

Sometimes, the most rewarding experiences are those that push us beyond our comfort zones.


After descending from El Cono, I made my way towards the Garganta del Diablo, or Devil's Throat. This geological formation is a deep gorge carved by the river, ending in a dramatic waterfall. The name itself conjured images of a dark and mysterious place, and I was eager to explore it. The Camino a la Garganta del Diablo offers a couple of ways to reach the waterfall. I opted for the trek, a decision I wouldn't regret, even though my legs were already feeling the strain from the morning's climb.

Discover the stunning beauty of Camino a la Garganta del Diablo in Tilcara, Jujuy, where nature's wonders await every traveler.
Discover the stunning beauty of Camino a la Garganta del Diablo in Tilcara, Jujuy, where nature's wonders await every traveler.

The trail to the Garganta del Diablo was a stark contrast to the open slopes of El Cono. It wound through a narrow canyon, the towering walls of rock casting long shadows. The air was cooler and damper here, and the sound of the river echoed through the gorge. The hike was more demanding than I had anticipated, with some parts requiring me to climb over rocks and wade through shallow streams. However, the stunning views made it all worthwhile. The rock formations were incredible, sculpted by centuries of erosion into bizarre and fascinating shapes.

As I neared the end of the trail, the sound of the waterfall grew louder, and the anticipation built. Finally, I rounded a bend and there it was – the Garganta del Diablo. The waterfall cascaded down the sheer rock face, plunging into a pool below. The force of the water was powerful, and the spray created a cool mist that filled the air. I stood there for a long time, mesmerized by the sight and sound of the waterfall, feeling the energy of this wild and untamed place.

For lunch, I stopped by Restaurante EL HUMAHUAQUEÑO. I decided to try the menu of the day and I started with a bowl of sopa, followed by a hearty beef stew. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, and the staff were friendly and welcoming. It was the perfect place to relax and refuel after a morning of hiking.

Experience the rich flavors of Argentine cuisine at Restaurante EL HUMAHUAQUEÑO in Tilcara - where tradition meets taste.
Experience the rich flavors of Argentine cuisine at Restaurante EL HUMAHUAQUEÑO in Tilcara - where tradition meets taste.

In the late afternoon, I took some time to explore Sahien, a local shop known for its artisan crafts. I wanted to find a unique souvenir to take back to Bamberg, something that would remind me of my time in Tilcara. The shop was filled with beautiful textiles, ceramics, and jewelry, all handcrafted by local artisans. I ended up buying a small, hand-painted ceramic figure of a llama, which I knew Kian would love. I also found a beautiful woven scarf for Greta, the colors reflecting the vibrant landscapes of the Quebrada de Humahuaca.

Explore Sahien Boutique in Tilcara for unique artisan crafts and a taste of Jujuy's rich cultural heritage.
Explore Sahien Boutique in Tilcara for unique artisan crafts and a taste of Jujuy's rich cultural heritage.

As evening approached, I made my way to Chicha Libre Resto Bar for dinner. This restaurant is known for its lively atmosphere and delicious food, and I was eager to experience it. I ordered a vegetarian sandwich and a glass of local wine, and settled in to enjoy the evening. The restaurant was buzzing with activity, locals and tourists alike enjoying the food, music, and company. There was live music that night, adding to the festive atmosphere, and I found myself tapping my foot along to the rhythm.

Discover the vibrant flavors of Argentina at Chicha Libre Resto Bar in Tilcara – a culinary treasure blending tradition with innovation.
Discover the vibrant flavors of Argentina at Chicha Libre Resto Bar in Tilcara – a culinary treasure blending tradition with innovation.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much I had experienced in such a short time. From the heights of El Cono to the depths of the Garganta del Diablo, it was a day of physical challenges, stunning scenery, and cultural immersion. I had pushed myself beyond my comfort zone, and I had been rewarded with memories that would last a lifetime. As I walked back to my guesthouse under the starlit sky, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this amazing part of the world.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit El Balcon de Tilcara and the Caravana de Llamas, eager to discover more of what this region has to offer. I'm also looking forward to trying the local cuisine at La Picanteria for breakfast, Killa Resto Bar for lunch and EL MOLLE RESTO BAR for dinner. And perhaps, I'll end the day with a drink at Tilca Bar Cultural Cafe. Each day here seems to bring new adventures and new perspectives, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow holds.
Go to day 9 Embracing the Serenity of Tilcara: A Day of Cultural Immersion and Culinary Delights
Go to day 11 A Day of Panoramic Views and Llama Treks in Tilcara
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Solo Cultural Expedition in Tilcara

Discover the cultural richness and stunning landscapes of Tilcara, Argentina, on a solo journey filled with history, music, and breathtaking views.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Amir Hosseini
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Restorer of historical musical instruments
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 39

Ahlan wa Sahlan! I'm Amir Hosseini, a restorer of historical musical instruments by trade, but a traveler and storyteller at heart. Born in the ancient city of Khowrzuq, Iran, and now residing in beautiful Bamberg, Germany, with my wonderful wife, Greta, and our energetic son, Kian, I've always been drawn to the world's diverse cultures and captivating histories. On Evendo, I share my personal journeys, offering insights, tips, and reflections for those seeking authentic and enriching travel experiences. Join me as I explore the intersection of history, music, and culture, one destination at a time.

Interests:
  • History
  • Music (especially classical and traditional Iranian music)
  • Cultural Anthropology
  • Photography
  • Culinary Arts
More about Amir Hosseini

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