Exploring the Timeless Beauty of Matera with Family

Echoes in Stone
Today, Matera unveiled more of its layered history, a palimpsest of human endeavor etched into stone. From the hushed reverence of ancient crypts to the vibrant flavors of Lucanian cuisine, it was a day where the past whispered through every sense. I found myself reflecting on how places like Matera hold not just history, but the very essence of human resilience and adaptation.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Ristorante '900 Casa Taccardi. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong Italian coffee filled the air, setting the perfect tone for our explorations. It reminded me of mornings back in Arezzo, where the simple act of sharing a meal felt like a sacred ritual. Astrid and Lasse were particularly fond of the local pastries, a sweet start to what promised to be a day of discovery.

First on our itinerary was the Crypt of Original Sin. The drive there was beautiful, offering views of the Murgia plateau. This cave church, located a short distance from Matera, is an extraordinary example of rock art in southern Italy. As we descended into the crypt, a sense of profound stillness enveloped us. The frescoes, dating back to the 8th century, were remarkably preserved, narrating biblical scenes with a raw, almost primal energy. I was particularly moved by the depiction of Adam and Eve, their expressions conveying a mix of innocence and dawning awareness. Lasse, who usually prefers modern art, was captivated by the age and the story these paintings told. Astrid, ever the historian, pointed out the Benedictine influences in the artwork, drawing parallels to illuminated manuscripts she's studied.


Discover the Crypt of Original Sin in Matera, Italy - a breathtaking historical landmark adorned with stunning ancient frescoes and serene beauty.

Sometimes, the most profound connections to the past are found in the quietest, most unassuming places.

Leaving the Crypt of Original Sin, we drove back towards the heart of Matera, our next stop being the Church of Saint Mary of Idris. Carved into the Monterrone rock, it offered a stunning panoramic view of the Sassi. The climb was a bit steep, but the vista was well worth the effort. The church itself is a fascinating blend of rock-cut architecture and masonry, reflecting different periods of construction and renovation. Inside, the frescoes, though fragmented, hinted at the church's rich artistic heritage. I found myself drawn to a 17th-century tempera rendering of the Madonna and Child, its colors still vibrant despite the passage of centuries.


Explore the Church of Saint Mary of Idris in Matera: A stunning rock-hewn church blending history, spirituality, and breathtaking views of the iconic Sassi landscape.

Astrid was fascinated by the story of how the church was once dedicated to the Virgin Hodegetria, meaning she who shows the way, and later became known as Madonna de Idris, or Our Lady of Water. Apparently, women used to crawl on their hands and knees along the ceramic floor to seek grace and abundant water. It's these little details, these echoes of past rituals and beliefs, that make Matera so compelling.

Our explorations continued at the Chiesa Rupestre di Madonna delle Tre Porte. This rock church, whose name translates to Church of the Madonna of the Three Doors, is located on the slopes of the Murgia Timone plateau. Unfortunately, we could only view it from the outside, as it's not always open to the public. Still, its presence was striking, a testament to the enduring faith of the people who carved it into the rock centuries ago. I learned that the church once had three entrances, but after the collapse of the right nave, only two remain. The walls are covered in crosses etched by shepherds, a poignant reminder of the church's role as a place of solace and worship for the local community.


Discover the enchanting Chiesa Rupestre di Madonna delle Tre Porte, a rock-hewn chapel rich in history and stunning frescoes in the heart of Matera.

By lunchtime, we were more than ready for a culinary break. We headed to Stano, a restaurant known for its traditional Materan cuisine. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and the menu featured a tempting array of local specialties. I opted for the fave e cicorie, a simple yet flavorful dish of fava beans and chicory, while Astrid chose the scialatielli with pistachio cream and truffle. Lasse, always the adventurous one, tried the orecchiette with cime di rape, a local pasta dish with turnip tops. Each dish was a celebration of fresh, seasonal ingredients, prepared with care and respect for tradition.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Stano in Matera - where tradition meets flavor in every dish.

After lunch, we strolled through the streets of Matera, eventually finding ourselves at a Matera gift shop. I was hoping to find a unique souvenir, something that would capture the essence of our trip. The shop was filled with local crafts, ceramics, and artisanal products. I finally settled on a handcrafted wooden Nativity scene, its figures carved from olive wood. It reminded me of my own woodworking back in Silkeborg, a connection to my roots amidst these ancient stones.


Explore the authentic charm of Matera with unique handcrafted gifts and local delicacies at this enchanting gift shop.

As evening approached, we made our way to La Lopa for dinner. This restaurant, nestled in a cave in the Sassi, offered a truly unique dining experience. The ambiance was intimate and romantic, the perfect setting for a memorable meal. We started with a selection of local appetizers, including bruschetta with pane di Matera and baccalà. For our main courses, I chose the local entrecôte, while Astrid opted for the orecchiette di grano arso with dandelion. Lasse, predictably, went for the pizza. The food was exceptional, each dish a testament to the rich culinary heritage of Basilicata.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at La Lopa in Matera - where tradition meets culinary excellence in a unique cave setting.

What made La Lopa particularly special was its small cinema in the basement, where short clips of movies filmed in Matera were shown. It was a surreal experience, watching scenes from The Passion of the Christ in a cave that had likely witnessed centuries of human history. It was a reminder of how Matera has served as a backdrop for countless stories, its ancient stones bearing witness to the ebb and flow of human drama.

As we walked back to our accommodation, the Sassi were bathed in the soft glow of the streetlights. The air was still and quiet, the only sound our footsteps echoing through the narrow alleyways. I felt a sense of profound connection to this place, a sense of having touched something ancient and enduring. Matera is more than just a city; it's a living testament to the human spirit, a place where the past is not just remembered but felt in every stone, every flavor, every whispered echo.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Parco Scultura La Palomba, the Chiesa Rupestre della Madonna della Croce, and the Complesso Rupestre Madonna delle Virtù e San Nicola dei Greci. I'm also looking forward to unwinding with a cocktail at the 1806 Cocktail bar. Each day here reveals new layers of Matera's story, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.