Adventurous Journey to the Bungle Bungle Range

Day 7: Into the Heart of the Kimberley: Caves, Crocs, and Ancient Reefs

Exploring Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) & Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) unveils the Kimberley's ancient beauty, wildlife, and Aboriginal heritage.

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Beneath the Surface, Above the Gorge


Today was a day of venturing into the heart of the Kimberley, exploring ancient landscapes carved by time and water. It was a journey through tunnels and gorges, a dance with the region's unique wildlife, and a deep dive into the rich Aboriginal history that permeates every corner of this land. I'm constantly reminded of the beauty and resilience of nature, and the importance of respecting the stories etched into the very rocks beneath our feet.

Our day began early, with a hearty breakfast at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park & Tour Company. I enjoyed some toast and chai before setting off. The air was crisp and the promise of adventure hung heavy as we fueled up for the day ahead. Today, we were headed to Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) National Park and Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park, two jewels in the Kimberley's crown. I double-checked my backpack, making sure I had my torch (a must for Tunnel Creek!), water bottles, and of course, my camera. I had almost forgotten my hat, but Thomas reminded me to bring it. It's so easy to get caught up in the moment and forget the essentials, especially when you're as excited as I was.

The drive to Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) was an adventure in itself. The landscape transformed from the familiar Bungle Bungle domes to the rugged Napier Range. As we bumped along the unsealed Fairfield-Leopold Road, I couldn't help but marvel at the sheer scale of everything. The vastness of the Kimberley is something you have to experience to truly understand. It felt a world away from Heidelberg, where the forests are dense and the hills are gentle. Here, the earth felt raw and untamed. Given that it's December, the roads were thankfully open, but I could see how easily they could become impassable during the wet season.

Arriving at Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek), I was immediately struck by the sense of mystery surrounding the place. The entrance to the tunnel was like a gaping mouth in the rock face, beckoning us into its cool, dark depths. Before entering, I took a moment to read the information signs, learning about the cave's formation as part of an ancient ocean reef system from 350 million years ago. It's mind-boggling to think about the forces of nature that have shaped this landscape over millennia. I also learned about Jandamarra, the Aboriginal leader who used the tunnel as a hideout in the late 19th century. His story is a poignant reminder of the complex history of this region and the struggles of the Bunuba people, the traditional owners of this land.

Equipped with our torches, my friends and I ventured into the tunnel. The air was noticeably cooler and the silence was broken only by the sound of dripping water. The beam of my torch danced across the walls, revealing intricate rock formations and the shadows of bats clinging to the ceiling. We waded through several pools of water, some reaching up to our knees. I was glad I'd worn my sneakers, as the rocks underfoot were slippery.

The earth has music for those who listen.

As we ventured deeper, the darkness intensified, and the sense of adventure heightened. At one point, the roof of the tunnel collapsed, creating an opening to the sky above. The sunlight streamed in, illuminating the cavern in a cathedral-like glow. It was a truly magical moment, a reminder of the unexpected beauty that can be found in the most hidden places.

Emerging from Tunnel Creek, blinking in the sunlight, we felt like we'd stepped out of another world. We spent some time exploring the surrounding area, marveling at the towering cliffs of the Napier Range. I tried to imagine what it must have been like for Jandamarra, seeking refuge in this remote and unforgiving landscape. It was a humbling experience, connecting with the history and the spirit of this place.

After a quick lunch at the Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge, we drove to our next destination: Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park. The landscape here was different again, with towering gorge walls rising from the floodplain of the Lennard River. As we walked along the gorge, we spotted numerous freshwater crocodiles basking in the sun. I'll admit, I was a little nervous at first, but they seemed quite accustomed to human visitors. Still, I made sure to keep a safe distance!

Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) is another site of great cultural significance to the Bunuba people. The gorge is believed to be the home of the Wandjina creation spirits, and it's easy to see why this place is considered sacred. The towering cliffs, the tranquil pools, the ancient rock formations – everything here speaks of a deep connection to the land and its history.

We took the Gorge Walk Trail, a 3.5-kilometer path that winds through the heart of the gorge. Along the way, we saw fossilized marine life embedded in the limestone walls, a testament to the area's ancient origins as a coral reef. We also spotted flocks of corellas and fruit bats roosting in the trees. It was a truly immersive experience, surrounded by the sights and sounds of the Kimberley wilderness.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the gorge walls, we made our way back to the entrance. I felt a sense of awe and gratitude for the opportunity to witness such incredible natural beauty. The Kimberley is a place that stays with you long after you've left, a place that challenges you to see the world in a new light.

We ended the day with dinner at the Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge | Eco Accommodation in Purnululu National Park. The lodge was comfortable, and the food was hearty and satisfying after a long day of exploring. I enjoyed swapping stories with my friends about our adventures, reliving the highlights of the day. I had the barramundi for dinner, and it was delicious! The staff was very accommodating to dietary needs as well. I'm already looking forward to our next adventure tomorrow, when we plan to visit Ivanhoe Crossing and the Argyle Homestead Museum. I think I will get a drink at the bar at the Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge before bed tonight!
As I reflect on today's journey, I'm reminded of the importance of preserving these natural wonders for future generations. The Kimberley is a treasure trove of biodiversity, history, and culture, and it's our responsibility to protect it. I hope that my blog posts can inspire others to visit this incredible region and to appreciate the beauty and fragility of our planet.

And on a lighter note, I must remember to buy some insect repellent tomorrow! The Kimberley mosquitos are fierce, and I definitely underestimated their tenacity. I'm also regretting not bringing my binoculars. They would have been useful for spotting wildlife in the gorge. Oh well, live and learn! Every trip is a learning experience, and that's part of what makes it so exciting. It's one of the things that Thomas loves about traveling as well.

Until tomorrow, auf wiedersehen from the Kimberley!
Go to day 6 Hidden Gems and Sunset Views: Discovering Kununurra's Wonders
Go to day 8 A Step Back in Time and a River Crossing: Kununurra's Charms
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Adventurous Journey to the Bungle Bungle Range

Explore the majestic Bungle Bungle Range with friends for an unforgettable adventure in Australia's breathtaking natural landscapes.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Anjali Müller
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Software Engineer
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 38

Namaste and Hallo! I'm Anjali Müller, an Indian expat living in the charming city of Heidelberg, Germany. By day, I'm a software engineer, but my true passion lies in exploring the world with my husband, Thomas, and our daughter, Leela. This blog is my creative outlet, a space where I share our family travel adventures, cultural insights, and tips for sustainable living. As an Indian woman navigating life in Germany, I offer a unique perspective on travel, blending my love for Indian traditions with my fascination for German culture. Join us as we discover hidden gems, savor delicious cuisine, and create unforgettable memories around the globe!

Interests:
  • Technology
  • Indian Culture
  • German Culture
  • Expat Life
  • Sustainable Living
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